Running engine with no rear wheels or suspension etc.

Will it be alright to do this , with it out of gear of course ? or will the driveshafts flail about like some medieval torture device ? Driveshafts are resting on horses at the moment . No rear wheels or hubs fitted. Quaife gearbox. Could do with a run .

Also if I know the block / heads / clutch housing & gearbox type , is it possible to order an exhaust system to be built or is it best to take the car and leave it ?
Don't really fancy some boy racers practising their ¼ mile times on some industrial estate.

Many thanks.
 

Larry L.

Lifetime Supporter
I'd remove the 1/2 shafts just to be on the safe side if for no other reason. They can't "flail" if they're not there.

You should have some sort of exhaust in place as well. From what you've stated about having an exhaust system made, it sounds as though there is none in place presently. It may be an old 'myth', but, the idea of warping a valve or two from cold air hitting them after the engine is shut down doesn't seem worth the risk to me either.

"...is it possible to order an exhaust system to be built or is it best to take the car and leave it ?"
The latter IMPO. 'Far more likely you'll end up with a better-fitting bundle of snakes by going that route. More often than not, fractions of an inch this- way-or-that is all it takes to screw up the whole effort.

To prevent "boy racers practicing their ¼ mile times on some industrial estate"; deliver the car with no distributor, ignition wiring, starter or intake system installed. I defy any "boy racer" to do anything but sit in the car at that point. (It goes w/o saying that you'll need to make sure you seal up the areas these components normally occupy in order to keep foreign matter out of the engine.) IF it's necessary to have the intake system in place to determine primary tube clearance (say a Weber setup, for instance), just have the rear two carbs in place and seal up the holes for the front two. (Of course, leave the fuel lines off as well.)

I'm a gutless ole coot.
 
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Well, I've tested a new gearbox install by "driving the car" with the rear on axle stands, so there are levels of risk here :) I'd certainly do it. Just on the starter you'll quickly see if there's any movement, but out of gear it seems pretty unlikely.

+1 on disabling the motor if it's being left anywhere.
 

Roger Reid

Supporter
Take te cv's and axles off. I ran on idle my GTM (successfully) with wheels on but... The oil friction in the transaxle caused the wheels to rotate. I applied the e brake and wheel rotation stopped, all was good. I believe your axles would try to rotate but no real power transmission unless you put it in gear.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone . The old exhaust is still fitted. It works alright , just rusty and the back boxes are crooked , so not sure if they could be straightened up. Stainless does look blingy though . Will try to rejuvenate the one that is on first.
Never thought about the trailer option , depends if the place is local or not.
I see the back boxes / 4 into 1 / tailpipes are available off the shelf but the front pipes would be to order ?
Not familiar with this type of driveshaft , do I remove them by taking out the six allen bolts ?
I take it there is an oil seal so I don't get a gusher :confused:
Is it normal to get a bit of a drip from the joint in the pic ? bothends of both shafts. Over a period of weeks not in any great amount .
I did notice last time the rear wheels used to creep round when it was running. Thought I had better enquire.
Oh and the rear end is off , with the tail lights disconnected , it'll be alright to start up ?
Thanks again , I will go and ponder and swat up on build blogs.

Exhaust .jpgExhaust .jpgExhaust 2.jpgExhaust 1.jpgCrooked sixpence.jpgFerric oxide Sergeant Major.jpgDrippydrivesharft.jpg
 
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