SB302 crank and rod kit

I am looking to buy a new crankshaft with rods and possible pistons.
SBlock is a 302 of 1973 (mexican block)
Cylinder heads new are Edelbrock Performer RPM N°6025 with camshaft Edelbrock N°7122.
Looking for arr 350 HP with 1500 upto 6500 rpm.
Anyone has some feedback as to wich could be good option?
Tx
fred
 

Lynn Larsen

Lynn Larsen
Fred,

Here in the US the price/quality high point you seem to be looking for in a crank would come from either SCAT or Eagle. Both are actually forged in China and there are varying stories on exactly where they are machined. Both say they machine them here in the US and the other guy's stuff is done in China also and, therefore, is of lesser quality. You might consider a cast steel crank and, if cost is a big consideration, a good name cast steel crank would serve you well if you stay in the <=350HP range.

I went with Eagle simply because the SCAT "Tech Support" that I talked to did not know their arse from a hole in the ground. When I told them I wanted a crank that was machined to be used in an internally balanced engine, they told me that there was no such thing and that to provide it would take "magic." That was enough for me to make the decision between the two. With either, have a reputable, trustworthy machine shop check your parts out thoroughly before use. When I bought mine, Eagle was supplying cranks for 28 oz, 50 oz and 0 oz. out of balance with 3.0", 3.25" and 3.4" stoke. I think they all had Chivy size rod journals, which today is not a problem since most everyone has rods with this size big end. With your requirements, I would definitely go with I-beam rods and save on weight. Again with your specs, Eagle and SCAT provide them along with the usual suspects. The fasteners used probably have as much to do with the reliability as anything else at the power/rpm levels you are building for.

Pistons are all over the place. Again, one company bad mouths the other with the same rhetoric. Go with a good name brand forged piston an you'll be OK. I went with Mahle since they are trying to break into the US market and had good quality and very light forged pistons at much better prices than everyone else. They also had a pretty good range of diameters and compression heights. You might even consider hyperutectic (SP?) to save money, but I wanted to build an engine that would be as bullet proof as my budget would allow. But a lot of guys make a lot of horsepower with stock blocks which include these pistons, I-beam rods and cast iron cranks.

To me it is cheaper to spend a little more up front than to go cheap and then have to repair later. If the wrong thing breaks (or something breaks the wrong way), you could easily spend nearly your whole investment again. Just my humble opinion. (If someone tries to sell you CAT parts, I would run like the wind; again IMHO.) One last caveat, I haven't really looked close at internals in the last 6 months or so, so there might be other options that have hit the market that I am unaware of.

Lynn
 
Lyn,

This is what I most likely will choose:
From Motor Racing Performance parts

347 forged steel stroker crank kit for 302 (Part N°: M 6013- C347) consiting of:
-Forged 4340 steel crankshaft 3,40" stroke
-Forged aluminium flat piston 4,030" with valve reliefs for inline Windsor style heads
-Clevite rod and main bearings
-Speed pro piston rings
-Sportmans rods (5.40" long) bushed for full floating .912" wrist pins with ARP 3/8" 190.000 psi bolts
 
Lynn,
Does Fred know you have to use zero balance unless he is using a Ford flywheel?
just wondering if I missed something here
Tommy
 
Fred,

Have you looked into the cost of a complete shortblock compared to buying the stroker kit and doing the machining and assembly in Europe?

I really dont see how you could ever get the same thing for even close to the US price here, and you have to deal with much more.

For FMS parts, check with a company called Five Star Ford and tell them you are a member of ffcobra.com. They have the best prices I have seen anywhere, great service etc. They usually dropship for free in the US as well, so you could have your stuff sent directly to a shipping company on the east coast.

Lukas
 
Lukas,

Tx for feedback.Indeed a crate SB could be cheaper but I heard a lot of people having problems afterwards when realizing some were not correctly built.
I have a friend mecanic who worked on the GT40 of Claude Dubois back in the 60ties and is an expert in Ford SB for De Tomaso racing cars aswel.He has the full equipment to machine and assemble all the pieces I want to have in the engine, so evenrything will be made locally and knowledge will remain close to my car and usage.
It was a choice on purpose and also a good learning for me on knowing better the engine itself.
Do you have a the ctc of said company?
Tx
Rgds
Fred
 

Lynn Larsen

Lynn Larsen
Tommy,

That is not necessarily true. Fred hasn't mentioned (here anyway) what transaxle he is using. Kennedy Engineered Products can provide flywheels for Porsche and Audi with 0, 28 or 50 oz imbalance. A really good machine shop should be able to setup any flywheel to match the cranks it is connecting to.

Granted, if one is building an engine from the ground up, it makes sense to build it internally balanced, especially if one wants to run it regularly at higher RPM (as in a road race engine on a fairly low geared transaxle.) This has only become true within the recent past however, as affordable neutrally balanced crankshafts became available. In the past, most cranks were cast/forged/machined to match Fords 28 oz and 50 oz imbalanced stock cranks. To make these cranks able to be neutrally balanced took the addition of heavy metal (mallory) inserts which is not a cheap process.

Regards,
Lynn
 
Fred,

I can certainly understand your caution as I have dealt with unreliable suppliers from the US as well and know what a pain in the a?? that can be. I even have a 289 block sitting here that I wanted to get rebuild but I have not found a reasonable/reliable machine shop yet. The only one in my area wants around €600 for the rebore, doesnt have honing plates etc. If your friend knows what he is doing and has the equipment go for it!

Regarding FMS, they actually introduced a warranty for their crate engines in 2005, and I know quite a few people who are very happy them. To be honest, I do not recall anyone having problems on the ffcobra forum where I usually hang out. There are probably more than 500 people running FMS crates over there, and I would hear about it if somebody is not happy with products or customer service.

Here is the contact info for Five Star FOrd:
Max R Zuckerberg
Five Star Ford
Parts Specialist
Direct 1-800-866-1520 ext 236
Fax 1-480-949-8478
[email protected]

If you want to go with an Eagle or Scat stroker kit, a source which has been recommended to me is adperformance.com. Very good prices, good selection etc. A forged (which is definitely not needed for a <6k RPM street engine but cheap insurance nonetheless) SCAT 331 or 347 stroker kit runs about $1350. That is for 28oz balance.

Other well-known companies for stroker kits are Keith Craft (never heard a bad thing about them), Ford Performance Solutions, DSS, and Coast high performance/Probe (customer service not always good).

Lukas
 

Lynn Larsen

Lynn Larsen
Lukas and Fred,

I, indeed, bought my Eagle stuff from ADperformance as well. When my machinist recently noticed that the crank I had was a 3.4" rather than 3.25" stroke, ADperformance corrected it straight away. This despite the fact that I purchased it quite some time ago (my fault it was just found out, not the machinist.) I have happily dealt with:

Brian Adams [email protected]
425-996-0225
www.ADperformance.com

Lukas, if you would like to get a quote from my machinist, Clay Ewing, on machining your block, I can gladly facilitate that. I discovered him on www.cornercarvers.com a website of mostly NASA racers. He is located about a 90 minute drive from me and has a very well sorted machine shop and the wherewithall to utilize it. I was very pleased with his prices to boot.

Regards,
Lynn
 
Back
Top