Scotts build thread

Michael Fling

Supporter
I think the head light is now out of sort with the shape of the fender.

Fender is pointy and headlight bucket is spoopy round at the front.
The rear is notched and again does not flow with he fender.

The original design you had matched the fender nicely.

To me the two don't match.

You have excellent construction skill BTW.

Proof Positive that "beauty is in the eye of the beholder". I prefer the new design much better. The picture of the car in your garage is killer. The new headlight design makes the front look muck wider and meaner. I would suggest you just do what you prefer. Either way... you do an amazing job!
 

Dr. David

Lifetime Supporter
Just my opinion, but I think you have nailed it! Best design yet! Everything you do is top-notch.
Just wondering......turn signals?

Thanks for sharing your technical expertise.
David
 
Just my opinion, but I think you have nailed it! Best design yet! Everything you do is top-notch.
Just wondering......turn signals?

Thanks for sharing your technical expertise.
David

I was thinking the same thing. Maybe Scott plans on using an amber led strip for turn signals? I believe in most states the turn signals need to be on the outside ege of the housing.
 
Sorry for late replies guys, decided to skip town and head to vegas real quick. Lets just say, my wallet is lots lighter! The only thing I was lucky at, is the fact my bank locked my cards up for 2 days until monday morning when I could call them and tell them I was in Vegas and it wasn't someone charging crap to my card! Haha.
 
Scott

I believe you shared with us somewhere the type of foam you use to shape designs and all....can you refresh my memory where was that discussion.

You have obviously made it a science of art however you do it. I have some work coming up so plagiarizing your technique works for me.

Thanks

I use a 2 part foam I got from a marine supply place on ebay. I have only used it once on this whole project though, to make the very first headlight. Second version was built using mostly flat fg cut off stock and cutting it to size, superglue it together so it will hold shape, then run more matting and resin over it to make it strong. This last version was the simplest really. I outlined it pretty well in the posts above since it seemed alot were interested. To make the actual recess for the lights, I just layed up a layer around a piece of cardboard tubing. Let set up, cut to shape, cut hole in bucket, and glue them in with long strand filler.
All in all, not counting drying/curing times, these went the fastest by far with only about 8-10 hours to make both and get to the point of paint and lens cover ready. I did spend awhile planning the process though for effiecency and no wasted steps.
The shape you are going for really determines the process you want to use.
 
Hay Scott yes much better, nice job. I see your doing the light covers. I am still debating whether to use mine or not. I like the look of them open. I can certainly see using them to get the most out aero out of a full on racecar.

Thanks Grant. I personally like the covers. I saw your other thread about them, and agree, the dip in the fender line is too distracting for me. If the whole thing was brought up flush though, like the Pagani, I think it would be a really cool look. I originally was going to do that.

there may be a cheap way of getting that look too. Off a frigging Smart Car! I think they are euro spec, or someone custom makes them. But, you can tell they use the 90mm Hella units like the SLC. The angle is pretty dam close, might be able to work with minimum mods.

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I think the head light is now out of sort with the shape of the fender.

Fender is pointy and headlight bucket is spoopy round at the front.
The rear is notched and again does not flow with he fender.

The original design you had matched the fender nicely.

To me the two don't match.

You have excellent construction skill BTW.

Thanks Don. I would have liked to have kept the first one. Lol. But, had to get a dot approved light, which that one was not. Since then, I have found out Hella makes a Bi-xenon 90mm projector I could have used, but had already cut them out and was making new design when I found them.
I did like the straight line effect the symmetrical headlight mad,e as that is what really exaggerated the pontoon fender look. Another problem was that I was getting alot of beam cut off due to headlight shape. I havn't been changing them due to changing my mind, but rather trying to make the headlight perform at it's maximum level. Anything less, would just been a poorly designed piece in my opinion. I just had to build them to even test.
So this headlight design now, is the best performing one. There is zero beam cut off on either low or high beam. It does give the car a more "traditional" look, if that makes any sense. But, with the lens covers on, I feel it will head back towards the first headlight design in the overall effect. I also feel, that color choice and trim colors or even multi color paint schemes, will really taylor the look of the car the most. Tons of creative possibilities for multi color schemes that could accent any look you wanted.
 
Will this nose be able to use the same lights that otherwise be used on the OEM nose? Very nice alternative to the original piece. I especially like the radiator exhaust outlet treatment.

Good work. I was wondering how you find the time? After all don't you young guys spend all your time partying? Scott has a great group of friends..................and a great house for a party!!!!!


Hey Howard. The SLC comes with 90mm Hella housings. I am using the 60mm projector housings from Hella. I found my projectors on Amazon for pretty cheap. All four is under $200. Then only $100 or so for 2 hid kits with bulbs. I used 6000k (pure white) 55w for my low beam, and 4000k (like a halogen bulb) 55w for my highs. The 60mm housing seems to REALLY like the hid bulbs. I tested both the 90mm and 60mm together with the same hid bulb, and I was getting a minimum double light output and much clearer from the 60mm housing. It will be like daylight for me. Haha. The 60mm high beam projector is very focused too. It will shoot very far down the road, thats why I wanted them a touch amber for better night vision.

Thanks for heading up for the get together Howard! Was a fun night!
 
Just my opinion, but I think you have nailed it! Best design yet! Everything you do is top-notch.
Just wondering......turn signals?

Thanks for sharing your technical expertise.
David

Thanks David.
I have some wicked ideas for the turn signals and drls. Need to build lens covers first, then can start test fitting them. Going to be led tube again though. Lets just say, this car will have a dam angry set of eyebrows!
 
Hey Scott, any chance you could share some of the part #s or links for the 60mm projectors and HID setup you went with? I'd like to use them for the outside headlights on the SLC.
 
Hey Scott, any chance you could share some of the part #s or links for the 60mm projectors and HID setup you went with? I'd like to use them for the outside headlights on the SLC.

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-998570001-60mm-Beam-Headlamp/dp/B002MFTGQA[/ame]



Xentec HID Ligthts Slim Xenon Conversion 55W Kit H3 H4 H7 H10 H11 H13 9005 9006 | eBay

You have to get the right bulbs though, I do not remember off hand the correct ones for the low beam. hb3 9005 I think.
 
I found out that my method I thought would work for making the curved lens covers, did not work all so well. Haha. Try #1= melted looking mess. Making a positive and negative mold now to sandwich it. Results should be much better.
If still crap, I shall attempt vacuum molding it. Still crap? Making new headlights again. Lol.
 
Here is an article on how the aircraft homebuilders do plastic forming.
 

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  • Aircraft Windshield forming.pdf
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Heating the acrylic or Lexan is the critical part. Overheating will cause issues, period.
Lexan requires a drying time in the oven at 250F for a time period of 1 hour for each 0.010 material thickness. 3/16 is going to need about 18 hours at 250F. .125 required at least 5 hours drying time in the oven. If you omit this step, it will be nothing but small bubbles from steam trying to escape. Forming temperature I believe is about 350-375F. Work quickly when removed from the oven. You'll have only about 20-30 seconds to lay on your form. Acrylic has a much longer "work time". Up to about one minute.
 
They are acrylic. I got a physical properties brochure with it, and said forming temps are 290-320f. I went with 310. My problem was uneven cooling. It pulled and lifted in parts of my mold due to hitting it with water unevenly.
I bought 3 pieces of acrylic. One to fuck up, and try my own method without much research at all. It didn't work well. Lol. Now, I have 2 pieces left, and will be an insult if I fuck up again, so now I am doing research, Hahaa. I have been working day and night so not much car work lately, but will be able to grab materials and lay up my other mold half tomorrow.
The lens has 2 different compound curves to it. The windshield in the above article has only one curve axis, making it a snap. My first method would have worked in that scenario. With the compound curves, the material needs to be stretched which is where my first mistake was. I could not hold the piece fully in the mold with one hand when cooling. With both sides of the mold, I can now press the 2 together, clamp it, and let it cool slowly.
There is also a tempering method you can do, since the lens will now be under tension, which could stress crack in very small cracks over time. After that, I plan to sand and clearcoat the acrylic with the same clear I will be using on the car. That way, it will have the exact same sheen as my paint. Should look good.
 
I think Fran may have started to put the 90/60 combo in the kits (?) Certainly the 60 fits the high beam nacelle better than the 90.

That Smart Car HL combo is a find! Almost makes me want to track a set down.
 
I started jumping through the wormhole looking for them. VERY hard to find. I think they are the Canadian Smart headlight. I saw some for sale in Europe though. Not very expensive at maybe $200 for the pair.
 
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