Shane's SLC Build
- Thread starter 51Magnum
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Shane
Supporter
Thanks for commenting! Another website that has sucked up my time this morning!! https://getnrg.com/
I actually am looking at the reclining seats. Do you know anyone who has used those?
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Two things, be careful with that inline pressure switch, they’ve been known to blow. Also, maybe make so provision or thoughts about how to efficiently direct air out of the front clam. That is an extremely hot area and the tank make interfere with any venting you have planned.
"...be careful with that inline pressure switch, they’ve been known to blow." Amen! In the '60s I was driving my 250GTE in Charlottesville, VA and a car stopped in front of me. I stepped on the brake and there was a sound like a pistol shot but NO BRAKE! I quickly grabbed the parking brake and stopped short of disaster. Later inspection revealed that the hydraulic brake pressure had blown the entire guts out of the brake light switch.
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
A micro switch on the brake pedal set up so the switch makes contact as soon as the pedal moves..
I had one switch blow and leak fluid…..slowly enough to get home and replace.
The next failed to make contact so no lights……then did the micro switch and no mor problems.(and no need to bleed the brakes again )
hi, Shane,
for your hose clamps have you thought of using these... just as good as jubilee but covers up clip
www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk
Jerry
for your hose clamps have you thought of using these... just as good as jubilee but covers up clip
Goodridge Pro Clamp For -20 Hose (Inside Diameter 40.00mm) Red | G-936-20DR | Merlin Motorsport
Goodridge Pro Clamp For -20 Hose (Inside Diameter 40.00mm) Red from Merlin Motorsport - Order online, over the phone or at our shop.
Jerry
Just fyi, the switch should be normally open and depressed when the pedal is in neutral, then even the slightest movement should close the switch when the pedal is pressed.
You don’t want it the opposite way.
painlessperformance.com
You don’t want it the opposite way.
Brake Light Switch 4 Terminal Part No 80176
Four-terminal brake switch. Has a normally open and normally closed side of the brake switch. Used as a factory replacement or when adding cruise control or lock-up torque
painlessperformance.com
Are those hoses for the brake fluid, if yes shouldn't they be rigid.
Only on the pressure side.
Frank Clark
Supporter
I have my lift pump, battery, megafuses and fire-bottle mounted in that area (wo extended foot box). No issues other than it's tight with cables/hoses. My fire-bottle is probably larger than your tank.
Shane
Supporter
I am really happy the way the AC unit fit into the car. I had to do a few of the modifications that have been talked about before on this forum so make sure to check those out. But here is how I did it.
Original unit from Vintage Air
Remove some of the black sticky tar to expose the nut. Thanks Cam and others!
I rotated them all down and bent the heater core tubes in.
Unit with hoses pointing down
Clears pretty good
Made all the mounting accessible from inside so if I ever need to service it I can get to all the mounting bolts easy.
I liked how this one turned out. I drilled through the member and sucked the unit up to the cross beam
I will cut out the holes and I need to fill the one that is half exposed.
Overall I think it is going to work really well. It is nice and solid and looks good. Just need to think about how to get the hoses inside.
Original unit from Vintage Air
Remove some of the black sticky tar to expose the nut. Thanks Cam and others!
I rotated them all down and bent the heater core tubes in.
Unit with hoses pointing down
Clears pretty good
Made all the mounting accessible from inside so if I ever need to service it I can get to all the mounting bolts easy.
I liked how this one turned out. I drilled through the member and sucked the unit up to the cross beam
I will cut out the holes and I need to fill the one that is half exposed.
Overall I think it is going to work really well. It is nice and solid and looks good. Just need to think about how to get the hoses inside.
Shane
Supporter
I need some help on the dash and defroster vent mounting. I have searched this forum and can't fine too many images on how these get put together. My main concern is at the dash cross brace. Is it supposed to set down on top or is it lifted off? I like the way @KENS80V built the stand offs, post #1022. Is this why you used them? Does the dash not rest on the defroster mount? I don't have anyone to help me lift the body on top to check it out.
For the vent plenum, several builders have chosen to modify it or even discard it entirely in favor of running flex hoses.. The final dash position will be dependent on where your body ends up sitting, then you align the dash to that. In my case, the dash defrost vents had around an inch of vertical clearance to the vent plenum, and the gap between the front dash mounting wings and the face of the chassis (your last pic) is about 3/4". Again, there can be a lot of variability there depending on the final position of the body.
