Shane's SLC Build

[Joel K]

Yeah, it is an all consuming project. Even after the many years I’ve been workin on it I still constantly think about how to approach my next items on the build.

Looks like your body is in a good place for-aft. I doubt the engine is too high, but you can see if the engine oil pan can go lower, but that is a big job and I wouldn’t bother. I made custom front and rear engine mounts and it was a ton of work.

I assume that is a stock LS 3 intake manifold and cannot go lower. You also could go the rear scoop like Cam T did. It may be necessary on the race tail with a rear facing intake. I know the street tail has a little more room in that area.

 

[Ken Roberts]

Is your body/spyder sitting on top of the floor side extensions?

If your engine was sitting too high, I don't see how you would be able to bolt your rear engine mounts to the adapter plate.

 

[Shane]

Is your body/spyder sitting on top of the floor side extensions?

If your engine was sitting too high, I don't see how you would be able to bolt your rear engine mounts to the adapter plate.

Yes, it is sitting flat on top of the sides. Actually looks really good. It is a street tail.



Yeah, I bolted the engine the way it was delivered.

 

[Shane]

Yes, it is sitting flat on top of the sides. Actually looks really good. It is a street tail.

View attachment 150558

Yeah, I bolted the engine the way it was delivered.

Well I am going to have to move on to other things right now. I have a feeling I will have to get the corvette oil pan and make new motor mounts. However, my transaxle that has been on order for almost two years is still not here so I can't make the mounts until then.

 

[Shane]

Fuel System
So I am not sure why but my fuel tank has the fittings on the passenger side. The wiki says to push the fuel tank all the way to the passenger side if it is a LHD car for weight and balance. Then put the fuel pumps on the drivers side. Well that doesn't work very well for me. So I decided to do something different.

I spoke to Bill and Fran about cutting the floor pan on the passenger side. They didn't see any problem with it so I cut it out and smoothed all the edges.

I designed a 0.25" aluminum drop pan that goes under the fuel tank. This is just a test setup, all the bolts will be smooth with the bottom. I am also trying to think of a different fastener for the two 5\16" bolts holding it shut.

I got the fuel system all plumbed and it looks really good. Now when I need to work on the fuel pumps or filters, all I have to do is lower the fuel pump pan.

Got my fuel shut off valve, I plan to build a lever to shut it off from the passenger side.

 

[Hector]

Wow!!! a fuel pump pan is a fantastic idea, super easy maintenance. Good job!!! I have never seen anyone do that on an SLC.

 

[Shane]

Wow!!! a fuel pump pan is a fantastic idea, super easy maintenance. Good job!!! I have never seen anyone do that on an SLC.

Thanks Hector! I thought it was pretty sweet. I'll post all the details like fittings, hose lengths, and a 3D model of the pan that anyone can buy from SendCutSend after I get it all set.

 

[Shane]

Radiator
I got the radiator mounted and the fan shroud bolted up. I bought the sheet metal part from Mason at Gemini Ultimate. Great customer service!

 

[Shane]

Fuel Pressure Regulator
I mounted the fuel pressure regulator here. I think it is out of the way of everything. Any thoughts?

 

[Ken Roberts]

Does the fan shroud have a divider wall between the 2 fans? Each fan’s air space should be independent of the other. This way if one fan fails…..the other won’t pull air from the non operating fan.

 

[Shane]

Does the fan shroud have a divider wall between the 2 fans? Each fan’s air space should be independent of the other. This way if one fan fails…..the other won’t pull air from the non operating fan.

Nope! But it will now.

 

[Shane]

Heater and A\C Lines
I got all the lines ran to the Vintage Air unit. I just have the two heater core pipes. I bent them, but I didn't like how they looked so I am going to try it again. I decided to pass through the inside of the car the #8 line from the compressor to the condenser. I didn't want it running by the front wheel. I also bought one of the H valves for the heater core and put it towards the back like @KENS80V suggested. I think it turned out pretty good. I designed and 3D printed a couple of brackets to hold the 90's for the back corner. I've attached the .step files if anyone wants them.

 

[Shane]

Yeah, it is an all consuming project. Even after the many years I’ve been workin on it I still constantly think about how to approach my next items on the build.

Looks like your body is in a good place for-aft. I doubt the engine is too high, but you can see if the engine oil pan can go lower, but that is a big job and I wouldn’t bother. I made custom front and rear engine mounts and it was a ton of work.

I assume that is a stock LS 3 intake manifold and cannot go lower. You also could go the rear scoop like Cam T did. It may be necessary on the race tail with a rear facing intake. I know the street tail has a little more room in that area.

@Jkviper and @KENS80V I talked to Bill and he found out that the LS3 and the G96 combo had different engine mounts. They sit about an inch lower. He sent me the new mounts that bolt to the adapter plate and the bungs for the front mounts that I have to cut and weld in. Pretty easy solution. I hope this helps someone else out. Thanks for your help. Thanks BILL!!!

 

[Joel K]

@Jkviper and @KENS80V I talked to Bill and he found out that the LS3 and the G96 combo had different engine mounts. They sit about an inch lower. He sent me the new mounts that bolt to the adapter plate and the bungs for the front mounts that I have to cut and weld in. Pretty easy solution. I hope this helps someone else out. Thanks for your help. Thanks BILL!!!

Interesting, I never knew they had different height engine mounts for the various transaxles. All I know is the rear mounts I received just didn’t fit. Since I wanted to shift the engine back anyway, I just made my own.

I assume you will want to use a Corvette oil pan so it does not hang below the frame rails.

Very nice work Shane!

 

[Shane]

Interesting, I never knew they had different height engine mounts for the various transaxles. All I know is the rear mounts I received just didn’t fit. Since I wanted to shift the engine back anyway, I just made my own.

I assume you will want to use a Corvette oil pan so it does not hang below the frame rails.

Very nice work Shane!

Thanks, that means a lot coming from you!

 

[Scott Womble]

Installing all the brake lines. I'm actually pretty proud of the way it turned out. I did drill through some cross members. So all the bends had to happen inside the car.View attachment 150205View attachment 150206

Shane,
That is exactly what I did with my brake and clutch lines. For my stance tank I had ~5.5 inches cut out of the middle, removed the feet and mounted it against the extended foot box with the pump directly in front/below the tank. Gives more room and still plenty of pressure to lift the nose.

 

[Hector]

Shane,
I know it is a bit late but If I had to do it again I would not have done all the heater stuff, no matter how insulated, the interior is always warm, and with the tires most of us use, the car will likely never be driven in temperatures below 35 degrees,(tires crack) therefore the heater will never be used. I have driven the car more than 7 thousand miles all year long and have not used the heater once. Just FYI, hope is helpful.

Well, one potential use, some people report some a/c component freezing over and having to run the heater a bit to thaw it out, I dont remember the exact details, but I never had the problem,

Quite a beautiful build you got going. Keep up the good work.

Hector

 

[Ken Roberts]

Be careful with that……..in some States a functioning windshield defrost system must be in place to pass inspection.

 

[DaveC]

Be careful with that……..in some States a functioning windshield defrost system must be in place to pass inspection.

Good point

 

[Kurt Hoffman]

I have used both my defrost and heat. Just this past weekend I was out for a drive, it was about 45-50 degrees outside and the heat actually helped to keep things more comfortable. It was only about a 20 mile drive, not really enough time for the engine to "heat soak" the cabin.

I have needed my defrost on many, humid, cool summer mornings on my way to an early car show. The humidity here in South Carolina can be brutal at times. I have also had to switch back and forth from AC to heat to defrost the windshield when it is very humid. I may add a valve to completely shut off the air to the defrost vents when running my AC.