Something doesn't look right here....

hhhhmmm....decided to pull the rear wheels off in order to get at the CVs for removal and noticed that something doesn't look right here....
 

Attachments

  • engingmount.jpg
    engingmount.jpg
    50.9 KB · Views: 542
Isn't there supposed to be a bolt in the forward hole of the engine mount? And, why is that rearward bolt just hanging down like that?
 
Isn't there supposed to be a bolt in the forward hole of the engine mount? And, why is that rearward bolt just hanging down like that?

Maybe you 'need' to use a torque wrench on those bolts Cliff!:lipsrsealed:

Seriously now, the factory use a 'deformed' thread on those bolts to act as a self locking device. I would suggest that this would be an ideal situation for the ' Nordlock' serrated/ramp two piece washer, plus some loctite for additional insurance.

The mount should also have a 'flat' pad to sit on as it tends under engine torque to rotate around the horizontal thru bolt as per your 'modded pic'
 
Last edited:
Yep, my two engine mount bolts (very similar arrangement to yours) came loose while the 40 was getting a good flogging on the dyno for a few days earlier this year. Which reminds me to go check them again.
Also had issues with CV bolts on driveshafts coming loose as well. Can't trust a thing it seems, particularly my ability to tighten bolts...
 
Tom-
Thanks for posting the worksheet- I'm going to save it to reference when I get to the point of redoing my hydraulic lines and fittings. I see the cylinder sizes are diameters but I have two questions:

In your Excel file, is the value of your cell titled "Ratioslavelever" derived the same way as Alan's term "Actuator ratio" in his post above yours?
Second, is the force of the return spring something that should be considered or is it not significant compared to the petal force?
Alan, thanks for providing the ballpark figure (12) for the combined mechanical/hydraulic force ratio--I've never seen it and it's something else I'll file away for future reference (along with a couple dozen JacMac posts!). Gotta love this forum!
Thanks!

John
 
Maybe you 'need' to use a torque wrench on those bolts Cliff!:lipsrsealed:

Seriously now, the factory use a 'deformed' thread on those bolts to act as a self locking device. I would suggest that this would be an ideal situation for the ' Nordlock' serrated/ramp two piece washer, plus some loctite for additional insurance.

The mount should also have a 'flat' pad to sit on as it tends under engine torque to rotate around the horizontal thru bolt as per your 'modded pic'

Thanks Jac, those are some good tips. Yes, the nordlock and loctite should do it - will give that a try. Thankfully, I don't have eat my words about torque wrenches (at least not yet) as it was the prior owner's mechanic who did the engine install and goofed the engine mounts. That same mechanic also left out several of the bolts securing the SBF-to-audi 016 adapter plate as well. At least he was consistent (consistently forgetful that is). Yikes. It's a wonder the engine didn't rotate itself backwards and up and over, taking out the rear clamshell in the process. That would have been ugly.

Come to think of it, the engine was making some funny vibrations and motions at clutch take up - now I know why! Just goes to show, if you want it done right.....
 
Dont forget to add the flat plate Cliff, its the most important bit of advice there, I'd hate to think how many engine swaps etc Ive seen where the omission of that basic feature has caused mount failure.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
I safety wired/loctighted mine after the second time they came loose. OK since. The other problem bolts turned out to be the starter mount bolts. Again safety wired and OK now.

I also think the CV joint bolts will need to be safety wired at some point. Mine are loctighted and seam to remain tight but I intend to do my SLC with safety wire and I think the GTD will get done also. They are on the pretrack check list and have been checked with a torque wrench each time.
 
Back
Top