Start engine w/o serpentine belt?

Shane, go away, hahahahahahhahahahahaha :p

I'm hoping mine will be okay because Allen's, Dean's and Cam's were.

Although I'm a fraction worried now because when I was removing the flex plate I noticed it was not loctite'd in and was only in around 40ft-lbs. Waterpump bolts were also only in around 12ft-lbs (instead of the 22 factory spec, so it definately isn't automatic torque)

Only saving grace at the moment is, like I said, I bought it on Visa, so I'll f*k them hard the second it even looks like it's leaking, hahaha



I saw that episode so that's why I thought these engines were built "right" (check stations, automatic torque, etc..), but I guess that's BS
 
Although I'm a fraction worried now because when I was removing the flex plate I noticed it was not loctite'd in and was only in around 40ft-lbs. Waterpump bolts were also only in around 12ft-lbs (instead of the 22 factory spec, so it definately isn't automatic torque)

I saw that episode so that's why I thought these engines were built "right" (check stations, automatic torque, etc..), but I guess that's BS

Not to turn this into a political discussion, but in order to build a quality piece, you need workers who give a sh!t. When you have a company with UAW workers, knowing that they now have a guaranteed tax-payer-funded paycheck coming to them every week....regardless of their work performance......this is what you get. Whether the LS engine is an engineering marvel or a design-flawed piece of crap is pretty irrelevent when you have Union Workers assembling them who know that they are practically immune to being fired.....and now, also immune from going out of business. I've worked inside the walls of a GM plant for over a year of my life. I've seen this first hand.
 
We are going to have Alex up and running soon. I'm sure the engine will be fine.

I would suggest not going down the political road on this thread. There are places for that and this probabaly isn't that place.
 
We've fired numerous engines without a belt on it...As stated, just don't run it long enough to overheat.

As far as break-in goes, everyone I know does the following:
Let it idle for a few minutes while you set valve lash, timing, carb adjustments, etc. This works out all of the assembly lube and any metal possibly left over from machining. Then change the oil/filter(conventional oil is necessary), and go RIGHT to the engine/chassis dyno or track. Beat it like it owes you money.

This is done on anything from stock Ford 302s up to $70k 800+ cubic inch mountain motors.
 
Back
Top