Stewart Warner 240 misadventure,

So I am new to the whole GT40 thing, figured I would gather some parts prior to ordering a kit. Well I, like a lot of people bought a 240 A12 fuel pump, took it apart, including the switch, cleaned everything, followed every post on this site. Put it back together, got the switch to work (checked with multimeter) with the assembly Manual I got with the rebuild kit, applied 12 volts and got got an intermittent staccato like sound, nothing binds, every spring has great return and every gasket replaced, but it doesn't last. I would first love to try a NOS switch prior to sending it for someone else to look at. Anyone in the states able to help?


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Hello Steve,
Can you describe in greater detail exactly what happens when you apply power ?
When the fuel bowl is filled up, the noise should settle down to a rythmic click.
Speed of the clicks in dependant on what fuel flow you allow it.
Did you buy the rebuild kit on eBay ?
As if you did, you didn't get the full kit as made by SW.
The kit on eBay is based on one bought from me, but he has omitted the expensive to make metal parts.
Seems buyers post positive feedback as soon as they get the kit and as you know, you can't alter the feedback once submitted.
If i can help, i will.
Btw, there are very few NOS switches out there. If you find one i would think
of it like this...would you like being woken up after 50 years.. ?
From Steves post I got the impression he was testing it 'dry', is that a good idea? apologies if I have mis-read your post.
Yes I did run it dry, I took the switch completely apart, including the brass tip and the lever inside the brass tip - I was curious that the lever really isn't a lever per se, it is connected but requires greater travel to actuate the longer aspect of the lever - I would guess that a direct connection would cause a rapid failure of a simple lever. I cleaned the whole switch, press fit the brass end back into the steel switch holder, made sure the lever connected into the plastic piece and reassembled the rest of the switch. Once I placed the switch back into the body of pump I would have it acutate only if I took the short spring from the top of the plunger out as it wouldn't allow engough travel to actuate the switch. I could then use the lower spring and slowly press on that spring and the plunger would travel back and forth very rapidly with 12V applied but only if by finger pressure adjusted the lower spring tension neccesary to actuate the switch. It seems the switch can work and the springs are the correct height but I can't seem to have enough travel of the plunger to correctly actuate it, if this makes any sense. The repair kit did come from ebay but seems to have everything but the fuel filter included, what does your kit include that this doesn't ?


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Answer is the expensive to stamp aluminium ' O ' rings.
He bought the whole kit and must have found out the cost of contoured stamping dies.
After all, this is a small market to try and recover those costs.
Yup, that was a great post, took it a step further and took apart the lever and its fittings very carefully to better understand what is going on in the areas that are really not supposed to be servicable. Still not functioning as it should.
Just curious if you found this thread below helpful::

It does walk you through the process of switch removal and replacement without damaging either the pump or switch.
I don't suppose there is any way to add the photos back to that post or to provide them separately so that we could better understand some of the steps in the process.

Randy V

Lifetime Supporter
I don't suppose there is any way to add the photos back to that post or to provide them separately so that we could better understand some of the steps in the process.
Those photos were like 3 computers ago and I am not sure if I have them anymore. Photobucket screwed up a lot of people - myself included. I could not afford the extortion they wanted to maintain the photos or let me download them.