SVA Requirements


Bronze Supporter
Hi Guys,

I have searched, but not very many posts on the subject. I am wondering if there is a checklist of some sort available that shows what we need to pay attention to when considering putting a GT40 through the SVA test.

For example, will knock off pin drive wheels go through OK? How do we get around the issue of rear lights when the clip is raised?

I am considering importing a turnkey minus and wondered just how much it will need to be tweaked in order to pass SVA and to be registered as a new vehicle and not a Q plate.



Ian Anderson

Lifetime Premier Supporter
Yes you can get it through as a new car
Yes you will need to do modifications

Basics are
Raise suspension to maximum to get headlights t minimum 50cm above ground
Remove lower indicators at front (too low)
Fit indicators in front light area (motorcycle ones) or front NACA duct area
Remove light covers
Remove side windows - need to be able to adjust mirrors when seated in car
Fit collapsable steering column hub
Fit retainers on rear clip to stop it opening only enough to check oil and water - prop it open on a broomstick - holding device cannot be removable without tools a dog lead bolted around the suspension and onto rear clip will pass.
Fit rear reflectors
Fit fog and reverse lights above minimum height (35cm if memory serves me right)
Move switches to right of dash to be no further to left than 160mm from steering wheel or you have to replace them with rocker ones with radiussed edges
No glass bulkhead window unless e marked (has to be plastic variety - likewise the window on rear clip)
Wire mesh in all vent holes grill etc
Rear clip le mans 9 hole outlet will fail if it is flat metal as edges cannot be radiussed enough and holes make the raduis something like 6mm
Spinners will fail fullstop.
Remove spinners and replace with senter nut which needs to comply with dimensions stated and be locked in place.
Wing mirrors must not mask side repeaters from rear of car
Possibly need to raise wing mirrors on door to get field of view over rear haunches.
Tyres - get them with E marks and load ratings to save a lot of hassle DOT marks should ne OK but the grief they game me was stupid!
Sound 101 db max
Rear Exhaust to have radiussed edge if it is contactable by a 30 degree cone slid up from the rear.
No sharp edges anywhere!
Exposed nuts inside eg steering column cover with rubber covers.
Best not to paint before the test as there will probably be some bits moved

Join the club and experienced people will assist

Also buy the SVA manual from VOSA who are the government department in charge of the SVA



Bronze Supporter
WOW! Thanks for that information Ian, you obviously went to some trouble to type it all out. Much appreciated.

I have joined both clubs and look forward to the next area meet. I have also decided to make the trip to Goodwood for the GTD track day, so look forward to picking as many brains there as possible.

Regarding paint, the supplier I am interested in has adviced shipping the car to me minus paint, so your info backs up that idea.

I will get hold of the SVA book to which you refer.

I expect to have more and more questions as the time to write the cheque gets closer. Thanks for you help so far.

Hi Mark. I had my KVA SVA'd about 5 yrs ago. (I think the test is tougher now). It is most important to get the SVA manual, it explains everything.
The tester initially pulled me up on two points but allowed me time to fix them over lunch:
1). Too noisy. I had a silencer made for the car and during runing prior to the SVA, some of the packing had blown out. I temporarily repacked with wire wool. Since then, the silencer has been modified to enable proper repacking.
2). Speedo out of calibration by 1 mph. A small inaccuracy is allowed if the speedo reads high, but none if it reads low. The speedo was a standard item from GTD and I had doubted it's accuracy so had it calibrated by a firm in London area who gave the details for me to measure the distance covered for so many revolutions of the rear wheels. It wasn't quite corrrect on the testers rolling road, but a lunchtime phone call to the London company gave me the info to adjust it on the spot.
The car passed in the afternoon!

Many cars have the rally type bonnet pins to hold the rear clip down. As Ian says, any sharp edges or protusions are not allowed. I replaced the pins with standard car bonnet latches which are released with a lever inside the car.

Get the manual, recent member experiences and let the fun begin!!

Dave Tickle