Tube Chassis sheet metal

[Bart Roberts]

I hope to start on the sheet metal on the chassis next month. What is the most common grade and thickness? I see 90%+ rivet but has anyone bond (like Fusor) and rivet to decrease rattle noise? What about bond and screw? Thanks

 

[Randy V]

I hope to start on the sheet metal on the chassis next month. What is the most common grade and thickness? I see 90%+ rivet but has anyone bond (like Fusor) and rivet to decrease rattle noise? What about bond and screw? Thanks

I‘ve bonded aluminum panels to steel chassis components in conjunction with 1/8” rivets on Cobras and it worked well and I suspect that it even increased torsional rigidity. One of my concerns with doing this is the difficulty it adds in collision repair.. the aluminum panels along with the steel tubing are basically relegated to the scrap pile.

 

[Bart Roberts]

I‘ve bonded aluminum panels to steel chassis components in conjunction with 1/8” rivets on Cobras and it worked well and I suspect that it even increased torsional rigidity. One of my concerns with doing this is the difficulty it adds in collision repair.. the aluminum panels along with the steel tubing are basically relegated to the scrap pile.

We use a lot of "panel bond" like Fusor in the collision portion of our shop. While the glue joint is stronger than sheet metal, it comes apart really easy with heat from a propane torch so it's not even permanently bonded if you can get heat on it. We worked behind another shop that bonded on a bedside incorrectly. We propane torched it off, cleaned both side and re-panel bonded it.

 

[Joel Heinke]

Here's a couple of pics from one of my hand built cars where aluminum was riveted and bonded to chassis tubes.

The aluminum used was 3003 alloy and .050 in thickness. For the engine compartment panels, I used anodized aluminum which I'd recommend for panels that are highly visible because it won't oxidize and is easy to keep looking nice with a spritz of detailing fluid. I happened to find a sheet of clear anodized aluminum at the metal supplier that they sold me for plain sheet cost. I'm guessing I got lucky and you'd likely need to special order the anodized sheet and it will come at a premium cost. Even so, probably worth it for some portion of the project if looks are a priority.

Since building that car, I have more experience with other aluminum alloys. I'd recommend using 5052 alloy for this type application. 5052 is marine grade aluminum so more corrosion resistant. It's not as easy to form or metal shape as 3003 but most chassis panels are flat or have straight folds in them. 5052 is also just a bit less expensive than 3003. For general fill panels I'd recommend .040 or .050 thickness. If you want more torsional rigidity, then .063 or even .090, it just weighs a little bit more.

 

[Neil]

I hope to start on the sheet metal on the chassis next month. What is the most common grade and thickness? I see 90%+ rivet but has anyone bond (like Fusor) and rivet to decrease rattle noise? What about bond and screw? Thanks

If you are setting your rivets properly and with the correct spacing, there should be NO rattle noise!

 

[Bart Roberts]

Here's a couple of pics from one of my hand built cars where aluminum was riveted and bonded to chassis tubes.

View attachment 134959

View attachment 134960

The aluminum used was 3003 alloy and .050 in thickness. For the engine compartment panels, I used anodized aluminum which I'd recommend for panels that are highly visible because it won't oxidize and is easy to keep looking nice with a spritz of detailing fluid. I happened to find a sheet of clear anodized aluminum at the metal supplier that they sold me for plain sheet cost. I'm guessing I got lucky and you'd likely need to special order the anodized sheet and it will come at a premium cost. Even so, probably worth it for some portion of the project if looks are a priority.

Since building that car, I have more experience with other aluminum alloys. I'd recommend using 5052 alloy for this type application. 5052 is marine grade aluminum so more corrosion resistant. It's not as easy to form or metal shape as 3003 but most chassis panels are flat or have straight folds in them. 5052 is also just a bit less expensive than 3003. For general fill panels I'd recommend .040 or .050 thickness. If you want more torsional rigidity, then .063 or even .090, it just weighs a little bit more.

That's pretty awesome. Your work is impeccable.