UN1 thrust bearing questions

[danny silvia]

( hey guys i just posted this in the introduction thread, but figured its topic-ed more for this section)

hey guys, i joined the site because i have a 81 delorean with a UN1 transaxle. i have swapped a chevy vortek engine in place of the stocker and come into a few little issues with the trans axle..

the clutch cylinder sticks out too far and wont allow me to bolt the 2 together.. i came up with an idea about a internal hydraulic thrust bearing, with a quick google search i found this site and a detailed thread about UN1's

i registered and wrote out a HUGE pm, only to click send and be denied because i need 1 post count! lol

so here i am.. im going to post pictures of my setup

i need to make up a 1" basically... i can remove the section of the 1/2 adapter plate, but that leaves me with 1/2" to make up...

if i space the cylinder further back ( move it to the left more if looking that the pic) wont that interfere with the clutch fork and not allow the bearing to slide correctly on the shaft?

i am hoping there was a un1 made with a hydraulic thrust bearing which i can use instead, but i dont know where to look? or my options ? any advice is greatly appreicated!

danny

 

[Howard Jones]

Have a look at the way this works with a small block ford. We use a 1/2 inch adapter plate also.

What if you get a 1/2 inch from the adapter plate and the other 1/2 inch by modifying the TO bearing arm. Maybe welding a piece of tubing that the cylinder can fit into with a cap on the end for the rod to press against.

There is a way, just don't get caught up in only one method. Change the easy/cheap stuff first.

 

[danny silvia]

Have a look at the way this works with a small block ford. We use a 1/2 inch adapter plate also.

What if you get a 1/2 inch from the adapter plate and the other 1/2 inch by modifying the TO bearing arm. Maybe welding a piece of tubing that the cylinder can fit into with a cap on the end for the rod to press against.

There is a way, just don't get caught up in only one method. Change the easy/cheap stuff first.

i have not check that out how u guys adapt the 302? what u just described is there any pictures?

my friend wants to fiddle with clutch fork but i fear in screwing it up, i cant picture how to make 1/2 up with the fork.. let me read ur post again lol

 

[danny silvia]

i have an idea, like u said here is a picture of the fork

if i remove the 1/2" plate, then put a 1/2" spacer between where the cylinder bolts to the bell housing, and then cut 1/2" off the rod on the fork should that work?

so basically i just physically moved the cylinder back 1/2", and with 1/2" removed off the rod, it should love exactly the same distance?! right?

 

[Howard Jones]

You need the adapter plate. Just spacing the grbx will not be strong enough. Remove a spot in the adapter where it interferes with the cylinder. That gets you a 1/2 inch. Then cut he top off the fork and weld it back on 1/2 inch farther away from the cylinder using side plates on the fork to extend it rearward.

I think you need the rod length to work the cylinder. Mock up with some other material before you start cutting things up. I like some thin gauge alum.

I'll post a picture of my GTD later.

 

[clive]

I'm going down a similar path, but suspect I may be on a hiding to nothing.

Inverting the UN1 behind a 302, I have all but closed off the external slave cylinder option. My problem is that the Ford flywheel and pressure plate fill the bell housing, leaving no room for a throw out bearing -concentric if possible. I need about 38mm (inch and a half) space between the pressure plate fingers and the front of the gearbox (and I'd love a bit more), but realistically only have about 20mm (3/4 inch).

I cannot be Robinson Crusoe in this. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Clive

 

[Graeme Stebbing]

This is a UN1 attached to a 1uz same problem but the builder overcame it and it worked no problem. In a Countach Replica made here in NZ