Waiting, waiting, waiting

Malcolm - the repairs are being done by the shop that does Finish Line's Cobra race cars. I have been assured that they will do a proper job.

As for visibility with the mirrors, since I haven't actually been able to drive the car, it's hard to say. They are 3.5" diameter and both flat and convex models are available. They will most certainly provide better visibility than the inside mirror alone.

I got them from Rocky Mountain Classic Mustang at $89.95 apiece.
 
Keep on trucking Steve! I think you'll have something to be proud of. BTW I checked out the Ingelssi rail gauge. Autometer Tech said they had never heard of a failure and thought if the gauge failed under normal PSI it would not leak. I'm not going to remove the one on my Lola.
Best
 
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BigRed and others

Thank you for your kind comments. It is nice to know people appreciate input.

Just please note that my comments are all personal opinion. I am not a qualified auto engineer or indeed an engineer of any sort. My comments come from personal experience from having owned and built my own GTD40 between 1990 to date. Prior to that it was a Cobra replica (which was a heap of junk by comparison to the forty!)

As such please always consider my comments with this in mind and make your own checks and reassurances before you do anything I might have done on my own car or know about others having done on theirs. However do feel free to use my comments as starting points.

However I enjoy passing on my experiences so hopefully you don't make similar mistakes I did. At some expense too.


Malcolm
 
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Apologies Jim, my wording confused! The ad is for a model made by Revell. Guarantee it isn't an original at 1:18 scale! Reading the ad again it refers to the winning car at Sebring in 1967. McLaren and Andretti were drivers entered by Shelby American. Car is shown yellow with black strips.
www.revell.de

Cheers

Malcolm
 
Less important than fuel fires, but..
why disable the vaccum advance?
Surely vacum advance working correctly makes a more responive motor at part throttle, saves fuel and cuts air pollution?
I know in years gone by locking out the advance made the spark timing more accurate, but surely we have learned a thing or two in 30 years!!
Rob
 
A vacuum canister might be a solution for the brake booster, but I don't think you'd want to run a distributor off it - the distributor needs a real-time signal, and the canister kind of acts like a big capacitor. And you still have the problem of finding a vacuum source to feed the canister from.
 
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Steve you might try a trick that they use sometimes with EFI stacks. They take a small tube from each to a common manifold block and then take their manifold pressure off of this as a composite to approximation what a manifold would be experiencing. This might work for you as well?
 
I actually have the setup Lynn described, but it's used for the PCV valve. It was my decision to run a PCV valve, since there does not seem to be any downside to doing so. It was by the recommendation of the guys at Inglese that I decided to remove the vacuum advance. It really isn't needed, and there are plenty of cars out there that run without one (including, I believe, all original 289 and 427 Cobras and the original GT40s). This car will not be driven enough for pollution or gas mileage to be significant issues, and since I plan to drive it as it was intended to be driven, I can't see how partial throttle response is going to be a big issue either.
 
I think that Kroyer Racing Engines in Las Vegas are going to tune it on the dyno. Haven't worked out all the details yet - I'm still waiting to hear what everything's likely to cost me before I commit on this...
 
Hi Steve
Really sorry to hear about your accident with the car.
At least the damage is slight by all accounts,could have been much worse.
Your car is in good hands with Finish Line,
Bob CAV
 
quote:Originally posted by Steve Toner:
I actually have the setup Lynn described, but it's used for the PCV valve. It was my decision to run a PCV valve, since there does not seem to be any downside to doing so. It was by the recommendation of the guys at Inglese that I decided to remove the vacuum advance. It really isn't needed, and there are plenty of cars out there that run without one (including, I believe, all original 289 and 427 Cobras and the original GT40s). This car will not be driven enough for pollution or gas mileage to be significant issues, and since I plan to drive it as it was intended to be driven, I can't see how partial throttle response is going to be a big issue either.

Steve,

With the right total timing, enough mechanical advance, the appropriate advance rate, and the correct initial advance, it should run great. I've done a few over the years, though I don't remember the numbers right off. Gas mileage mostly suffers when your engine RPM's are kept below that of full mechanical advance at no load cruising speeds (but you're not going to baby this thing anyway, right?). Any Hot Rod shop with a distributor machine can fix you up (there's still a few of them out there).

Cheers,

Andy
 
Got to see and hear my engine run yesterday. The car's still up on stands, but nearly ready to go. They were fabricating a throttle cable bracket and should be able to drive it on Monday.
Then it's just the air conditioning line, putting the rear cowling back on & aligning it, and fitting the replacement tunnel.
I may yet be able to get this thing registered in time for Monterey, but who knows what additional surprises lurk at the DMV?
Yes, it's really been 7 months since I took the car back down to Vegas because the tranny had not arrived and winter was coming on. It wasn't supposed to be like this...
 
Brought my car home from Las Vegas today. There are a couple of things still not done on it (rear bodywork adjustment, Weber jetting, oil pressure gauge reads off the scale), but hopefully nothing that will prevent me from getting it registered. It's 4 weeks til I head out to the California so I needed to get it home to get it through the registration process. I'll probably drop it back off in Las Vegas on my return from Monterey so they can finish up what needs to be done.

I did get to drive it a little bit this morning, and I'd like to post my impressions, but it's going to take some seat time before I really get a feel for the car. The clutch in particular is the stiffest I have ever driven, and always the thing that takes me the most time to get a feel for in a new car. The car didn't feel very fast to me in a straight line, but then I didn't take it over 4000 RPM...

I expect my first step in the registration process will be to get a VIN assigned, as it appears that the CAV-affixed number is not a conforming VIN number (needs to be 17 characters, I think, & CAV # is 11 characters). I'll post my progress as it happens.
 
First trip to DMV. There are a bunch of forms to fill out: Ownership statement (where did all the parts come from), Application for Motor Vehicle ID Number, Application for Utah Title. As I suspected, the VIN number is not conforming so they'll assign one. Strangely, the state-assigned number is not a conforming number either /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

I trailer the car over to the local police department to get a Certificate of Inspection showing that the serial number on the MSO matches the one on the car.

DMV also wants a photo of the car. Since I don't have any photos of the completed car, I haul it back to the parking lot at work and unload it so I can take some pictures. Insurance guy will also want photos so I shoot a bunch. Off to the photo finisher to drop off the film. I'll pick up the prints tomorrow, then it's back to DMV where I get to write them a big check for the sales tax, and I assume the next step is to schedule an appointment with the county safety & emissions guys. It's running a bit rich (new idle jets on order), so I'm wondering if it's going to have trouble passing the smog test (for kit cars, anything with a 1968 or older engine must meet 1968 tailpipe standards)...
 
Something that has me a little confused about the registration with the DMV - Everyone keeps talking about "sales tax" you need to pay - I thought that if you bought something outside of the state (or country) that you did not have to pay state sales tax. Since our cars come from overseas (unless you have an era or H&M) and we've already paid import duties, why would we be charged sales tax???

sorry if this is a dumb question, but what the hell,
 
Some states call it a registration tax or licensing tax, even though it is the same rate as the general sales tax. It is a misnomer that if you purchase something out of state that you do not have to pay sales tax. If you reside in a state that has a sales tax and you purchase something that is taxable AND you bring it back into the state you are supose to report the item and pay the tax. Usually no one checks on minor things or amounts, but around here VA and MD have tracked down people who buy furniture in NC. In fact there is the guy who was CEO of Tyco who is spending a lot of time in jail for buying some stuff (a few million dollars worth) without paying NY sales tax.
 
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