Waiting, waiting, waiting

[Steve Toner]

My car was supposed to arrive about now, but I just found out it was delayed in shipping from South Africa

so it's still a couple of weeks away.

The engine, however, is pretty much ready to go:

I will replace the chrome oil pan & valve covers (they came with it from the builder)...

"The waiting is the hardest part" -Tom Petty

 

[Gary Gibbs]

Steve,
Tell us about the engine. I sure looks perrrty.

 

[Steve Toner]

The block's a "pre-smog" 289. I specifically requested that the builder supply me a 1965 or '66 DATE CODE block, and they assured me there was no problem, never confirmed the date code with me, and delivered me a C6AE casting with a 7F14 date code

. This is in fact a block from a 1968 model year car. I was not pleased, but after checking with the county (each county sets its own smog rules here in Utah), was told that it would be treated as a 1966 based on the casting code and that anything prior to 1968 has to meet 1968 tailpipe emissions anyway. So that is why I am not telling you who the engine builder is - I cannot recommend them, even though I'm sure the engine will run great. Cam is a Federal Mogul model with 214/224 duration @ .050" (& 351 firing order).

Heads are Edelbrock Performer RPM with roller rockers. Distributor is an MSD 8479 with the vacuum advance removed & locked out. Water pump is a Flowkooler 1650, which is really a 302 water pump and has its water inlet on the driver's side. This is what the CAV wants, so I had to go a little nonstandard here. It also required making 3 custom 1/4" spacers as it is 1/4" longer than a standard 289 water pump. You can almost see one of the spacers in the picture, between the head and the gold anodized standard spacer for the alternator. The most interesting spacer is between the flywheel and its pulley - for this one I "had to" buy a mini lathe and machine it from a 5/8" thick piece of 4.5" round stock (6061 aluminum). I haven't done any machining since college, but it's like riding a bicycle (which is what I built in college - MIT class 2S15 was an intro to machining "seminar" where you built a bike out of aluminum).

Anyway, the alternator is a PowerMaster and I posted before about how how I had to "modify" or "convince" the adjusting bracket to fit. Pulleys are Ford Racing M-8509s, though as you can see I'm using the alternator pulley that came from PowerMaster.

Topping it all off is a Weber IDF-44 setup from Iglese. IDA-48s would be more historically accurate, but these should be more streetable. Inglese supplied it complete as you see it, with the hoses, fuel pressure regulator, and gauge all hooked up and ready to go. I did have to remove the carbs to do a proper job of torquing the intake manifold...

Dyno2000 shows this combination making 374 HP at 6000 RPM, but I don't believe it.

Oil pan is due to be replaced with an Armando's or Aviaid once I get the car and figure out if it will need any special notching. On the valve covers, I haven't decided yet between "289 Powered by Ford" or Shelby, or possibly even Holman Moody covers.

That's probably more than anybody wanted to know about it...

 

[Ron Earp]

Steve,

I have a similar motor and induction and, like you, I've got to machine a spacer for my crank pulley. I used a water pump that RF didn't thus it made everything a little bit off. But, our engines look similar.

How are your webers setup? I've got IDFs as well and will be looking for help getting them going. I'm using AFR heads, 11:1 compression, and a 342 instead of standard stroke. Results/dynos/simulations indicate 450+ hp but I don't believe it either. I figure I'll be lucky to get 325 rwhp and that would be more than enough.

I'm using a new MSD digital 7 ignition and the same billet distributor that you have. You have clearance problems like I do?

You may like to use the "Powered by Ford" covers I have. No 289 or other logo. You can find them on 84 and 85 Mustang GTs and 5.0L LX cars. Cast aluminum, look good polished or powder coated and don't have any Shelby or Cobra badging.

Ron

[ August 11, 2002: Message edited by: Ron Earp ]

 

[Steve Toner]

Ron,

I'm not sure what you mean when you ask how they're setup? Are you asking what jets/emulsion tubes they have? If that's it, I don't know - Inglese set them up. When you order from them, you tell them what engine, camshaft, compression ratio & heads you've got as well as what altitude you're at and they figure it out from there. They come complete with the linkage, and adjusted for easy starting. They also supply a synchronizing tool (Unisyn by default, I upgraded to a Synchrometer - look kind of like a snail).

As far as clearance problems, I didn't notice any, but I did just drop in the distributor for the photo shoot. They suggest lining up the distributor cap screws with the left rear inside carburetor bolt (at TDC) for maximum movement.

I'll have to check out those valve covers - just plain Powered by Ford would be good. Elegant in its simplicity

 

[Jim Rosenthal]

Steve, engine looks great. Here's a question: do you have a source for the Aviad oil pan? I also asked Lynn Larsen about this; I understand they are still in business making the pan that went in these cars originally, but I have not been able to find them.
Thanks! have fun, you'll be rolling soon far sooner than I will. They did finish the body for my car, so we're moving along, but slowly.

 

[Hershal Byrd]

Jim,
I think this is the site you are looking for.
http://www.aviaid.com/

Hersh

 

[Steve Toner]

Yeah, what Hersh said.

GT40 pan is part #55360. Price is $613.10

 

[Steve Toner]

Now my car's hung up in Customs - was supposed to pick it up on Saturday. Now that looks iffy.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Just a quick note to inform you that the car has been in customs since Monday and at this moment we are not sure when it will be released. It could be today in which case it will be here tomorrow or it could be next week. Customs is an entity unto itself and we're at their mercy. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I didn't order the snowmobile option, but if there are any more delays I may ned it!

 

[Alain Vanhollebeke]

Steve, did you use a customs agent to get your car into the USA?

I have a kit on order from New Zealand and have already contacted John Clarke (importer) about the shipping/importing part.

I'm hoping that using his services, will help the arrival be "stress free", when it comes to customs etc.

 

[Steve Toner]

Mine's a CAV, so they're handling everything. They've already succeeded in getting at least half a dozen cars into the country, so I don't know what the hangup is with mine...

Managing this whole international shipping/customs thing seems to be a nightmare. I know they've had previous shipments delayed because they didn't get transfered properly in Hong Kong or something. You have to worry whether the longshoremen are going to go on strike. Then there's the customs process to deal with - it should be easy but apparently that isn't always the case. The cars can get damaged in shipment (all the CAVs come "turnkey-minus" - complete, painted cars less engine & transaxle).

Who was it that said it always takes longer and costs more than you expect? I've stayed on budget (so far), but the delays are totally out of my control.

[ September 26, 2002: Message edited by: Steve Toner ]

 

[Alain Vanhollebeke]

You just bought up my "big fear #2".

Not only am I worried about the whole "customs thing",,,,,,,, I also have nightmares about my kit being dropped into the bottom of the ocean ,,,,or showing up damaged.

This importing stuff is hard on ones stomach.
I guess, for the mostpart, all we are able to do is wait & try to stay reasonably sane.

 

[andys]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Alain Vanhollebeke:
You just bought up my "big fear #2".

Not only am I worried about the whole "customs thing",,,,,,,, I also have nightmares about my kit being dropped into the bottom of the ocean ,,,,or showing up damaged.

This importing stuff is hard on ones stomach.
I guess, for the mostpart, all we are able to do is wait & try to stay reasonably sane.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


Alain,

I bring over products from Asia, though not as large as say a GT40 kit. Never had a failed delivery nor damaged goods. Customs has at times (though not usually) been a hastle, though a good agent is helpful. Even had the FDA quarantine a shipment, but perseverence paid off. Keep your spirits up, and sleep well.

Andy

 

[Frank Catt]

Steve, can I make a very important suggestion regarding your engine. Please do not use the fuel pressure guage on the carbs as shown in your photo. I have had several fail, most notably at Spa in Belgium, where I was on the return leg of the circuit from Stavelot in Robins car at 150mph when I looked in the mirror and all I could see was liquid fuel washing the back window just behind my head. This took my attention for as long it took me to stop at a marshals post, leap out and grab a extinguisher from a dozy prat who was supposed to be on fire duty. Luckily the fuel evaporated and did not catch fire, but it could have been very nasty indeed. Secondly, we have used IDFs a lot over here, we now use IDAs! Frank

 

[Jim Glickenhaus]

Frank
Have you heard of other failures? How did yours fail? Where did the fuel flo from gague or fitting? I've used these gagues for years in heavy duty marine use as well as on my Lola (48IDA's) and my MK-IV (In cockpit). In the MK-IV it is usefull in knowing when you have to switch over to reserve tanks.
Best
Jim

 

[Frank Catt]

The gauges fixed to the engine have failed inside the guage. The curved copper tube which expands with pressure has broken (vibration?) and blown the glass and face off the guage. This has not happened in isolation!. The best(safest) type of fuel pressure guage is the type that has a very short tube to a diaphram housing which then sends to the guage with either air or inert liquid. On no account should fuel be piped into the cockpit! I always use a fuel pressure guage plumbed into the fuel rail to set up and check pressures, which is then removed and a seal plug installed before driving. Frank

[ September 27, 2002: Message edited by: F CATT ]

 

[Jim Glickenhaus]

Frank
The gauge in the MK-IV is original and very robust and has been like that since 1967. I have checked it out but will take another look this winter. What is the brand of fuel rail gauge you like? Would you reccomend deleting this gauge? The one in my P4 is also in the cockpit and runs at 8Bar 120psi.
What do you think?
Best
Jim

 

[Steve Toner]

The gauge was provided by Inglese as part of the package. They did not include instructions to remove it once the fuel pressure is set. I will check with them and see if they have had reports of this problem. In any case, removing it and plugging the hole seems like a reasonable safety precaution (though it looks much more cool with the gauge in place!)

Frank, one question: Do you have a pressure regulator in the line? I could see the pressure getting excessive without a regulator...

[ September 27, 2002: Message edited by: Steve Toner ]

 

[Frank Catt]

Steve, I always use a Holley fuel pressyre regulator part number 12-803 (4.5 to 9 psi). With IDFs I also recommend a return fuel system to the tanks, so that fuel is always circulating and not getting too hot or boiling in the fuel rail. I have several different fuel systems running in different cars, but with all cars I mount the pumps(mallory 110gph pumps)beside the fuel tanks, as low as I can get them, as pumps are much more efficient pumping than sucking, and then feed to a swirl pot before serving the carbs, via the regulator. I often use a third delivery pump from the swirl pot to the fuel rail. If you want more detail just ask. Frank

 

[Guest]

I just want to put my $0.02 worth in here with an absolute vote of confidence for Frank's statements. MkIV this is really for the guy building a street car and not meant for your exotics. Like Frank said, "On no account should fuel be piped into the cockpit!" The technique he describes is perfect, ie use a rail mount gauge for adjustments, but then use either an isolator as he describes or an electric; there are senders that are cheaper than the outrageous prices that some gauge makers charge for EFI pressure senders. They are gouging on these because it is higher pressure than the 7-12psi used on carbs, BUT remember the pressure on the fuel rail of most EFI engines is the same as the pressure of the water in most houses: it ain't that d__n high. If you have used a good rail mount you can do a couple tests and set a conversion factor for the electric, if needed, to give you a real good idea of the true pressure and it will definitely give you trends.