What were everyone's engine choices, crate or DIY?

Jkviper

Joel K

Supporter
FlyinJ said:
RE: LS 3-750, good to know for someone else, but I don't want to come close to that.

I checked out that Megasquirt site...that landing page is awful and unreadable, and the product descriptions are full of spelling, broken links, and other errors. As far as the traction features, I didn't see anything other than launch features that limit spark/rev, or if something like this is EPA compliant. Not trying to disqualify what you're saying, but the Megasquirt is a poor example if it's supposed to represent actual traction control that limits individual wheel slip on launch and acceleration. Other aftermarket ECUs seem to indicate they won't work to pass inspection, but I'm sure there are workarounds. I live in NY, so I'm sure they require whatever standard smog equipment for the year engine I get.

Traction control requires a lot of features that the SL-C doesn't have like wheel sensors and ABS systems, has anyone had success installing it in cars like this?
Click to expand...

Jeff, I would recommend getting very familiar with what you need to pass NY inspection before you buy an engine. Every state is different. For example, NY may require cats, but not ODBII.

Also, the new SLC uses X-tracker hubs which I think you can purchase with either passive or active wheel speed sensors, so there are a number of solutions out there to choose from for traction control especially for LS engines.
 
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Jeff W

Edit: I guess I gotta ask, has anyone registered an SL-C in NY? I dug through the inspection regs and they indicate that "custom" or "homebuilt" cars don't need to pass an OBDII inspection, but I understand the SL-C comes with a certificate of some sort and a VIN? Not sure how this butts up against NY's laws. Custom cars "can be assembled from new and used parts", but the guide doesn't specify a percentage of parts or if the manufacturer (RCR in this case) puts numbers on the frame.
 
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Jeff W

Guess we posted at the same time, Joel. Thanks for the info.

I wish it was easy to find info out on any of this stuff right now, but the DMV is a royal PITA to deal with on a good day and with COVID a bunch of the offices are closed and they only offer appointments weeks in advance...it's not like I can just ask someone and expect a reply in a reasonable amount of time.
 
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David Ludwigson

I
FlyinJ said:
RE: LS 3-750, good to know for someone else, but I don't want to come close to that.

I checked out that Megasquirt site...that landing page is awful and unreadable, and the product descriptions are full of spelling, broken links, and other errors. As far as the traction features, I didn't see anything other than launch features that limit spark/rev, or if something like this is EPA compliant. Not trying to disqualify what you're saying, but the Megasquirt is a poor example if it's supposed to represent actual traction control that limits individual wheel slip on launch and acceleration. Other aftermarket ECUs seem to indicate they won't work to pass inspection, but I'm sure there are workarounds. I live in NY, so I'm sure they require whatever standard smog equipment for the year engine I get.

Traction control requires a lot of features that the SL-C doesn't have like wheel sensors and ABS systems, has anyone had success installing it in cars like this?
Click to expand...
Regarding traction control: I'm using Race TCS on a ls powered Factory Five GTM. I'm using the wheel sensors from a C5 Corvette. http://racetcs.com/
 
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Jeff W

Looks neat, but another “track only” device. Not sure how I’d swing that past inspectors - I see you’re in the UK so I’d have figured more restrictions on your car...is that an “oops, how did that get installed?” thing? Or is FFR’s GTM
classed differently there and avoid regulatory hangups?
 
S

Kyle

Supporter
Ya just make separate bypass harness for the injectors and should be pretty easy to pull out at anytime.
 
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David Ludwigson

FlyinJ said:
Looks neat, but another “track only” device. Not sure how I’d swing that past inspectors - I see you’re in the UK so I’d have figured more restrictions on your car...is that an “oops, how did that get installed?” thing? Or is FFR’s GTM
classed differently there and avoid regulatory hangups?
Click to expand...
I'm actually in California. The traction/launch control is a small module that can be mounted anywhere you want. I located mine near the ecu as you essentially route the injector leads through their module. The traction control has a number of pre-sets (6) plus a setting to totally turn it off. The presets are easily modified using the app provided by RaceTCS and a tablet/laptop. Connection with the module is via a usb port. I can pull the module out at any time as I used 8 pin Deutsch connectors when I spliced into the injector leads.
Another option at a considerably higher price point is: https://racetronics.com/GPS-Brake-Control.html. They offer a sensorless option.
 
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Jeff W

Y’all are hilarious. If there’s a way around something, someone will figure it out. I’ll have to get the car in my garage first and see what tech I’m comfortable with installing, the infinity box alone is going to consume much of my abilities, plus maybe an AIM or other digital dash, now speed sensors and alternative ECU? My brain is melting and I don’t even have the vehicle yet, lol.
 
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Hector

One day at a time Jeff, as you go along you will find different opinions , find out how different builders are doing things at your stage , and then figure out what works for you, you will change your mind plenty of times, at least I have, and find out innovative and neat solutions to lots of problem. I originally thought I was going to use the KOSO unit, to save money, but that thing belongs in a motorcycle not an SlC, so I am using the AIM unit, I am keeping the infinity box for now, but just started the electrical stuff, we will see. Be flexible, stay with it and ask lots of questions. Most people in this forum are happy to help, myself included. Good luck
 
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Jeff W

I’ll be following your progress with the AIM unit. Regarding the rest, that’s why I’m starting early with due diligence. Mistakes at this level are going to be costly, so being triply sure about things will minimize the delay and hits to the wallet.
 
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Jeff W

Man…been hitting craigslist, FB marketplace and calling scrapyards in the area…nobody’s got 6.2 LS3s. Tons of 6.0 and smaller, but it’s wicked harder to find a starter engine than I’d expected, and we haven’t even talked about aluminum yet. Buying a retail block alone is going to be $2500, then add all the heads and other parts and its going to be close to crate price.

Anybody got a source that’ll sell/ship for a reasonable price? Good scrapyard within ~100 miles of Hudson Valley area?
 
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Jeff W

I’ll take a look.

And if anyone’s searching for NYS inspection requirements to register a kit, I just got off the phone with the state DMV department that handles this stuff (technical department).

Give them a call and they send you a packet tied to your DL# that lays out the requirements and documentation for issuing a VIN for a kit car.

As far as the engine goes:

If it’s a replica car, like a GT40, that model year is what they look at for engine requirements.

If it’s a non-production car that is custom, like the SL-C, then the engine year is what they look at for inspection and emissions.
 
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Jeff W

GM has a sale on LS engines right now, pretty steep discount. They can't get crankshafts, so they're not building anything and no deliveries until this fall. Seems like they want the cash to keep coming in rather than get no sales at all, so thus the discount. 525hp LS3 L92 for 9500...not bad. Needs harness, though so 800-1000 more.

If you're not in a hurry to get an engine, might be worth it. Pricing out used/new parts to build the same engine with forged internals costs only $500 less.
 
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Jeff W

Well, I bit the bullet. After months of scouring craigslist, scrapyards, facebook marketplace, and finally ebay, I couldn't find anything that would work. Scrapyard drop-out aluminum block LS3's are starting at over $6,000. A used bare L92 block, the cheapest I could find, was $1,800. Short blocks used or rebuilt are $3K by questionable craigslist sellers, professionally rebuilt shorts are $4k. Retail bare blocks are $2,500. Once I added up all the machining, rotating assembly, cam, valve train, water/oil pumps, blah blah blah...It landed me in the ~$9,000+ range. There's boatloads of cheaper engines I didn't want like LS1s, iron-block SUV LSs, or even higher numbered LSxs, but I had to pick the hard one, lol. Anyway, I forked out for the GMPerformance engine. Non-dressed LS3 6.2 L92 @ 525 hp. The price was originally $11K+, but as I mentioned above, they're short stock and probably want to keep orders coming in. Couldn't beat the zero tax & free shipping to my door. Won't be here for several months (no problem, no car for it to go into) but I'll have time after it arrives to tweak it, maybe do some porting, valve springs, windage tray, low-profile oil pan and all that good stuff. It pays to take your time, sometimes. Now I'll see if I can find a wrecked R8 to get a transmission out of for cheap!
 
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Chris

Well currently for my imminent GT40 project (aka as soon as Covid buggers off enough for me to get back to work) top of my list is an old nascar combination. Fresh built for me.

-80’s 9.2 4 bolt SVO block, circa 360ci
-3.45 Bryant lightweight crank,
-6.2/6.3 Carrillo or Lentz rods,
-custom pistons for 10.5/11:1 CR
-late Yates C3 restrictor plate heads (v good low down velocity and ported for lower Revs than normal maxed out derestricted versions). Titanium valves, retainers and seats.
-55mm roller cam with 112-114 LSA likely mid .600’s lift.
-dry sump or external wet sump (tbc but swaying towards dry so can run decent vacuum sealed engine)
-Kinsler or Hillborn EFI stack injection (whenever they get back around to making it).

Should be way more power than I’ll need but perform well for the street too. Thinking probably 650+Hp 500lbft and the ability to Rev to 8k without issues. Will also fit within better emissions regs being pre ‘92.

Good bang for its buck but you suffer as it’s a 9.2 deck which is just annoying. Would’ve done the build with a 4 bolt 8.2 ideally but so difficult to find an old good one, although the 9.2 is much easier for race parts availability!
I know it will fit as fell in love with pantera1889’s car on here!

Many say it’s too much for a GT40 but I’ve never been one to follow the norm, below 5000 from dyno graphs I’ve seen with similar setups it should perform just like a slightly more powerful 347.

example below on a 10.3:1 341ci
EFCBD183-9248-4486-9019-46AE488ABB2D.png
 
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