About to Order - Lessons Learned?
- Thread starter LIONDOG
- Start date
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
That's what I have (on a ZFQ), but I've also sat in Holman's Mk II and operated its sill shifter; there is no comparison.
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Well, apparently we have some disagreement about the feel of the cable shift (see Michael's post above); the only good cable shift I've ever driven was my NXS, and it has a very short, very straight and very thick cable. I don't think it's possible to make a cable shift that goes four feet and bends at all to feel close to a good rod shift.
The LHD Mk IIIs had a center rod shift. SPF could have replicated that.
As for the safety issue; I think it comes down to one's personal risk management perspective. I think driving a GT40 on the street is so dangerous anyway (compared to a modern production car) that, relatively speaking, throwing in the RHD element would be a rather small change to the overall probabilities. Besides, it's under your control; if you don't want to risk it you can always not pass. That's a different kind of risk than the guy texting who runs a red light, center punches you and covers you in gasoline.
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RHD is just one of many safety issues that surround a GT40 if one thinks about it. E.g.: 'No crumple zones...no side impact reinforcement (usually)...no air bags...the car is only 40 inches tall, so other drivers may not even see it...and to top it off, its passengers are sitting right between two 10 gallon fuel tanks.:shocked:
IOW, from the standpoint of "safety-on-the-street" (or even on a track for that matter), one is probably a lot better off driving a Smart Car.
Buuuuuuuut, they do beat the heck out of riding a motorcycle!
I hear you. Still, I would hope that a side impact would not cover you in gasoline!
My tanks are aluminum foam filled pieces. Should they rupture (and it would take a lot...although I may look at reinforcing that section now that you bring it up), the things shouldn't splash gas...just leak slowly.
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
SPF tanks are stainless steel and baffled both of which increase strength, but not bladder or foam-filled. Fuel cells to fit are $thousands, although what's your life worth, as they say. It's also probably true that any crash that ruptures one of those tanks has probably already done a pretty serious number on any passengers. But still there is that narrow circumstance where fuel sprays all over the place and you're still alive.... I worry about it but haven't yet produced the money for the fuel cells...
All of which reminds me of another maintenance issue on SPFs: keep the hose clamps on the tank vent and neck hoses tight; remember rubber hoses with worm clamps loosen all by themselves. This is probably one of the sources of gas smell in the garage, and perhaps should be addressed by replacing the rubber hoses with silicone ones and some constant-tension band clamps.
Fortunately the newer cars have all that isolated in its own sheet metal chamber, unlike the older cars where those hoses are right there in the cabin with you. In the latter case in an accident probably those hoses would burst before the tanks themselves which would definitely fog up the cabin. So at least if the clamps are tight it takes more pressure to make that happen. I went a little over the top and replaced my vent hoses with AN fittings and armored hose but that was a lot of work for probably little benefit. But that at least means the only clamped-rubber-hose connection is down in the sponson.
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You guys keep going on about the rod linkage center shift option, but I spoke with Dennis a while back, and got the distinct impression that he had no interest in doing another.
I'm sure that someone could throw enough money at him to get to get him to do it, but it seemed to me at the time that Dennis thought it took more time and effort than most people would be willing to pay for.
Things may have changed, but that's what I recall.
I'm sure that someone could throw enough money at him to get to get him to do it, but it seemed to me at the time that Dennis thought it took more time and effort than most people would be willing to pay for.
Things may have changed, but that's what I recall.
Mike
Lifetime Supporter
I had a similar conversation with him as well. I find the shifting with his modification on my RBT to be excellent. It can be a little hard to get it into first at a stand still but that is not the shifting mechanism that is responsible for that. Once rolling it shifts like butter. Butter being a relative term of course. If you want shifting cream, try a Ford GT. Now that is slick!
Same response I got. And I even offered candy.......
Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
Disclaimer: I haven't (yet) successfully designed and implemented a center rod shifter in a GT40, but to my eyes the mechanism Dennis supplied to Steve C is absolutely baroque. I can see why he would not want to do another.
I think the right approach is to do what was done in the Mk III, which is variation of the Mk I and Mk II: a simply longitudinal series of rods connected with U-joints and appropriate bearings near each U-joint. This does require running a rod from the base of the shifter to the right and back through the firewall, where a bearing needs to be installed, and might require some foam carving and creativity to make the SPF passenger seat continue to be attractive and comfortable (if in fact you care about that).
The problem is a lot harder with an FE because it's wider, and it was in an FE car where Dennis' design was used, but I really don't see what's wrong with the Mk III mechanism working with a small block. It sweet and simple, just like the RHD sill shifter.
Jim Craik
Lifetime Supporter
Jeffery,
Just in case you wondered, P/2264 has the standard SPF center stick with cables, after 35,000+ miles, it works great, no problems what so ever.
Another thing to keep in mind, and I know that this is not a reason to buy these cars, but 40 years down the road, just as with all cars, the more original, the less changes from stock, will be worth the most.
I can see it now, the Barrett Jackson guys.....................this is a 2008 SPF GT40, with the original body, original sway bar mounts, original shifter, original fuel tanks...........
Be sure and save your plastic firewall window, frame and all the rest of the stuff, including carpet......
All those formerly split window Corvettes are now being converted back.......
Just in case you wondered, P/2264 has the standard SPF center stick with cables, after 35,000+ miles, it works great, no problems what so ever.
Another thing to keep in mind, and I know that this is not a reason to buy these cars, but 40 years down the road, just as with all cars, the more original, the less changes from stock, will be worth the most.
I can see it now, the Barrett Jackson guys.....................this is a 2008 SPF GT40, with the original body, original sway bar mounts, original shifter, original fuel tanks...........
Be sure and save your plastic firewall window, frame and all the rest of the stuff, including carpet......
All those formerly split window Corvettes are now being converted back.......
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I ordered my red widebody SPF Mk1 with RHD, RH sill shift and love it. Regarding shift precision and feel, NO center shift arrangement compares.
As for the reality of RHD in a GT40, driver and passenger seats are side by side in the center of the car, and just a few lateral inches separates the postioning of the driver's head whether he is sitting in the right seat vs left seat. So there is no problem driving it on the street at all.
Besides, all proper sports racers (like the GT40) are RHD. And when you add in the fantastic shift quality, RHD/RHS is a no brainer (to me, anyway).
Widebody is definitely the way to go: it looks killer. And the extra rubber aids traction (mine has 630 hp).
I use a set of 17" wheels with Michelin Pilot Sports for the street, and keep another set of 15" wheels with Avons for the track. (You can use the Avons on the street, but they vaccum up every stone on the road and are a PITA).
Finally, get Dennis Olthoff to do your car. He is the best, and you won't regret it.
Jack
As for the reality of RHD in a GT40, driver and passenger seats are side by side in the center of the car, and just a few lateral inches separates the postioning of the driver's head whether he is sitting in the right seat vs left seat. So there is no problem driving it on the street at all.
Besides, all proper sports racers (like the GT40) are RHD. And when you add in the fantastic shift quality, RHD/RHS is a no brainer (to me, anyway).
Widebody is definitely the way to go: it looks killer. And the extra rubber aids traction (mine has 630 hp).
I use a set of 17" wheels with Michelin Pilot Sports for the street, and keep another set of 15" wheels with Avons for the track. (You can use the Avons on the street, but they vaccum up every stone on the road and are a PITA).
Finally, get Dennis Olthoff to do your car. He is the best, and you won't regret it.
Jack
Jim Craik
Lifetime Supporter
Folks thought the same about the original GT40s, they were changed in hundreds of ways, today outside of the racers, I bet that the street cars that are most original (body, tub, instruments, wheels....) regardless of miles, are worth the most.
Once SPF stops production, the values will start going up, there are only 100+ of them now, but 4,000+ Ford GTs. That's not why I have mine, I drive the piss out of it, but I leave it as stock as I can.
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Seymour Snerd
Lifetime Supporter
More like 230. Also, don't forget; rarity alone does not make a car collectible....
Jack, I think a photo of your Red Wide Body has been my screen saver for a year 
Isn't it yours featured on the SPF site? That was the car that did it for me. I am basically looking to copy your look - Mk1, Red, No Stripes, Wide Body. I think I prefer LHD, but understand your argument. Right now I am targeting the 530-ish hp out of a Roush 427SR, but have a lot of time to investigate other options - and save more money . What motor are you running?
About the only thing I might do different is to paint the spokes on the BRM's black - but keep the rim bright. I can't tell for sure what rims you have in the photos I've seen, but they look either gray or polished. Although Michael's all black rims look pretty good as well. And the Shell logos on the front fenders are fantastic.
Filled and signed the order form tonight. One detail or two to work out and the deposit goes in. Lots of time to still make changes before production is committed.
- Jeffrey
Isn't it yours featured on the SPF site? That was the car that did it for me. I am basically looking to copy your look - Mk1, Red, No Stripes, Wide Body. I think I prefer LHD, but understand your argument. Right now I am targeting the 530-ish hp out of a Roush 427SR, but have a lot of time to investigate other options - and save more money . What motor are you running?About the only thing I might do different is to paint the spokes on the BRM's black - but keep the rim bright. I can't tell for sure what rims you have in the photos I've seen, but they look either gray or polished. Although Michael's all black rims look pretty good as well. And the Shell logos on the front fenders are fantastic.
Filled and signed the order form tonight. One detail or two to work out and the deposit goes in. Lots of time to still make changes before production is committed.
- Jeffrey
The cable shift is NOT bad....just not a good as rod shifter. And a little lovin' and shimming on the cable shifter will improve the feel and precision. It is WAY better than a bug and at least as good as a 60's 356 P car if not better.
