Spraying inside of fibreglass
- Thread starter JayPSC
- Start date
Brian Magee
Supporter
Jay
Go to decorators shop such as Brewers and buy some oil based paint. I use Blackfriars Semi Gloss Black. It is much easier than spraying and with the texture of the glass fibre you won't see any brushmarks.
Brian.
Go to decorators shop such as Brewers and buy some oil based paint. I use Blackfriars Semi Gloss Black. It is much easier than spraying and with the texture of the glass fibre you won't see any brushmarks.
Brian.
Re: Duplicolor, this is UK based arm of US company who can get (and do keep stock here) Duplicolor products.
Caswell Europe, Electroplating and Powdercoating systems for small commercial workshops or home restorer
Caswell Europe, Electroplating and Powdercoating systems for small commercial workshops or home restorer
Lynn Larsen
Lynn Larsen
I guess I am a little late, but for others who may read this thread: If you want to smooth out the underside of you body panels before finishing, you may want to use a product like Evercoat Feather Fill polyester primer. In addition to the texture of the fiberglass, there were resin drips and grinder marks on the underside of my body panels which I found very unsightly.
This is a sprayable two pot filler/primer that is sandable and fairly easy to apply. I used an inexpensive gravity fed HVLP gun to apply mine and was very pleased with the result. (Trust me, I am NO painter!!) There are other products like, Evercoat Slick Sand, but it was only available in quart cans which cost almost as much as a gallon of Feather Fill. And, as far as I could tell, the two products were identical. Although this product was claimed to be comapatible with all topcoat systems, be sure and check it out with what ever you top coat with. Others make similar products as well.
In the engine compartment, I used a high heat Duplicolor product in aluminium for reflectivity. Every where else, including the chassis pan, I used 3M Rubberized Undercoating (NOT the plain 3M Undercoating or other types of undercoating! These can be a mess and many aren't much more than black paint. The NAPA brand rubberized stuff never fully cured was awful.) I wanted a build up for sound and chip protection. If I had it to do over again, I would have taken it to Line-X and had their bedliner material sprayed on (it doesn't have to have the deep texture like a truck bed.) The reason I say Line-X is that at the time I was researching this, that was what all the competion auto audio guys were recommending. Since product development is so rapid, it would probably be a good idea to see what those guys are using when you are ready to do your car.
Lynn
This is a sprayable two pot filler/primer that is sandable and fairly easy to apply. I used an inexpensive gravity fed HVLP gun to apply mine and was very pleased with the result. (Trust me, I am NO painter!!) There are other products like, Evercoat Slick Sand, but it was only available in quart cans which cost almost as much as a gallon of Feather Fill. And, as far as I could tell, the two products were identical. Although this product was claimed to be comapatible with all topcoat systems, be sure and check it out with what ever you top coat with. Others make similar products as well.
In the engine compartment, I used a high heat Duplicolor product in aluminium for reflectivity. Every where else, including the chassis pan, I used 3M Rubberized Undercoating (NOT the plain 3M Undercoating or other types of undercoating! These can be a mess and many aren't much more than black paint. The NAPA brand rubberized stuff never fully cured was awful.) I wanted a build up for sound and chip protection. If I had it to do over again, I would have taken it to Line-X and had their bedliner material sprayed on (it doesn't have to have the deep texture like a truck bed.) The reason I say Line-X is that at the time I was researching this, that was what all the competion auto audio guys were recommending. Since product development is so rapid, it would probably be a good idea to see what those guys are using when you are ready to do your car.
Lynn
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Pity you're not nearer 'cos I would take some of the paint off your hands as I was thinking of redoing my front/rear clip interiors too. Suppose 1 litre would be enough as it is only a paint over job.
I'm with Brian on brushing on the paint. I feel it does a better job of working into the uneven surface. Mine has been great for over 5 years now. I used Rust-oleum, which flows out great and leaves no brush marks. This eliminated the need to mask other areas and to tape the edges. No runs either.
I went by one of the Line-X dealers a couple of days ago. I have to say I like their product. It goes on hot and will seal any small gaps(if you want them to). I was thinking of doing the underside of the car because I had seen some surface rust in the cabin area. Close inspection found some small pin holes at some of the welds in the flooring. I hadn't thought of lining the underside of the clips, but it seems to make good sense to do so. It will get rid of the exposed fiberglass fibers that are everywhere and put a nice finish on it to boot. Their stuff comes in any color you might want to do. I am thinking of doing the few exposed large frame ladder pieces in the rear that didn't get the stainless treatment.
Bill
Bill
More important than the paint is preparing for the paint so it will stick. You need to find out from the manufacture what type of resin he used .... type ''a'' or ''B'' if the resin he used has wax in it... whatever you use won't stick without the proper prep. then after preping use a primer like DP40 or the equal and then the paint will stick . Its all in the prep!
Lizard Skin is a good product expecially where heat is an issue. Lizardskin Ceramic Insulation and Sound Control Spray-on Formula
Chris
Historic Race Car Replicas
Chris
Historic Race Car Replicas
