Widebody RCR40
- Thread starter Adam H
- Start date
Adam,
Jay at Cushman is a stand-up guy. I have bought lots of stuff from him and he always delivers. You may want to start looking for a used 3" impact socket for those center-lock nuts now on ebay. Ez to put on with a breaker bar, but you will need a 1" drive truck impact to get them off!!!! Happy hunting, Scott
Jay at Cushman is a stand-up guy. I have bought lots of stuff from him and he always delivers. You may want to start looking for a used 3" impact socket for those center-lock nuts now on ebay. Ez to put on with a breaker bar, but you will need a 1" drive truck impact to get them off!!!! Happy hunting, Scott
Stopped up to RCR to check on the car a couple weeks ago. Things are moving along. Can't wait to see the wide body and wheels installed.
Fran has got a pile of cars in various phases of build. Apparently he also bought a decommissioned fighter jet.
He who dies with a fighter jet wins!
Fran has got a pile of cars in various phases of build. Apparently he also bought a decommissioned fighter jet.
He who dies with a fighter jet wins!
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Another fuel system question
I was talking with Fran and he recommended using only the passenger side tank as it’s approx. 13 gal. I think that would be fine for almost all driving occasions, even the occasional track event. If I’m building the car I want to do it once and have it work for all situations, perhaps some race gas in the driver tank and street gas in the other or even a driving tanker truck for a long road trip. Either way I wanted to plumb in the second tank and only use one at a time, therefore, simplifying the pump and hose config. I have read about every bit of GT40 information on the subject. Pollock valves and solenoids on return lines and such. I found this in the boating world:
Groco Fuel Valve - 6 Port - Bronze - Fittings, Parts & Accessories - Fuel System - Engine Systems - Downwind Marine
A manual 6 port valve used for fuel injected boats having 2 tanks and a single engine. I like the simplicity of a manual valve over a solenoid controlled one. I also wanted to keep everything AN fittings and not bounce from AN to plastic barb and back.
Has anyone used one of these?
I was talking with Fran and he recommended using only the passenger side tank as it’s approx. 13 gal. I think that would be fine for almost all driving occasions, even the occasional track event. If I’m building the car I want to do it once and have it work for all situations, perhaps some race gas in the driver tank and street gas in the other or even a driving tanker truck for a long road trip. Either way I wanted to plumb in the second tank and only use one at a time, therefore, simplifying the pump and hose config. I have read about every bit of GT40 information on the subject. Pollock valves and solenoids on return lines and such. I found this in the boating world:
Groco Fuel Valve - 6 Port - Bronze - Fittings, Parts & Accessories - Fuel System - Engine Systems - Downwind Marine
A manual 6 port valve used for fuel injected boats having 2 tanks and a single engine. I like the simplicity of a manual valve over a solenoid controlled one. I also wanted to keep everything AN fittings and not bounce from AN to plastic barb and back.
Has anyone used one of these?
Adam,
I've seen that valve before but did not go with it. Price is reasonable, though.
I use a simple dragster FI shut-off valve made by Enderle for my return line. You can find them here: Shut Off Valves. I use the SHUTOFF VALVE 3-WAY AN6. You'll need to swap the one bulkhead fitting with a -6AN ORB fitting ($5). The center fitting becomes your inlet for the fuel return.
I have an orange pointer attached to the selector and it's visible from the rear bulkhead window, passenger side. A quick visual confirms which tank I'm returning fuel to...
I've seen that valve before but did not go with it. Price is reasonable, though.
I use a simple dragster FI shut-off valve made by Enderle for my return line. You can find them here: Shut Off Valves. I use the SHUTOFF VALVE 3-WAY AN6. You'll need to swap the one bulkhead fitting with a -6AN ORB fitting ($5). The center fitting becomes your inlet for the fuel return.
I have an orange pointer attached to the selector and it's visible from the rear bulkhead window, passenger side. A quick visual confirms which tank I'm returning fuel to...
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So you have just one valve on the return? Do you need a second larger size on the feed lines?
I like the concept of twin in tank 044's but don't the rcr tanks need some surgery to accommodate? Also, without internal baffling I would be concerned about starving the pumps. I was thinking about the low pressure pulling from either tank (depending on the 6 port valve setting) to a swirl tank then having a fuel injection pump supply the engine. The swirl tank would remove the need to modify the stock tanks.
That hydramat looks interesting. I'm seeing an expected life of approx 10 years. If that's the case I'll do a pair of 044's with the check valves. They make a 15X3" mat that would probably fit nicely at the bottom of the RCR tanks.
Adam,
Once you cut the oval for your top plate, you can access everything but the front half of the tank from there. I use the 4x6 top plates and there's enough room for a 044 and an internal collector, plus enough room to stuff the anti-slosh foam through. Too much to list and post reference pics here so if you decide to go this route I can help. Just PM me.
Your swirl tank solution is popular and works fine too but can take up valuable space under the rear bonnet, and you add another fuel pump and more plumbing to the system. The RCR has a sealed compartment behind the left side tank that could be made into a swirl tank. I probably would have gone that route except my car already had that compartment designated for power distribution and relays.
Oh, and Hydramat (i.e. larger fuel sock) will definitely help. Mine would be easily adaptable to Hydramat.
Once you cut the oval for your top plate, you can access everything but the front half of the tank from there. I use the 4x6 top plates and there's enough room for a 044 and an internal collector, plus enough room to stuff the anti-slosh foam through. Too much to list and post reference pics here so if you decide to go this route I can help. Just PM me.
Your swirl tank solution is popular and works fine too but can take up valuable space under the rear bonnet, and you add another fuel pump and more plumbing to the system. The RCR has a sealed compartment behind the left side tank that could be made into a swirl tank. I probably would have gone that route except my car already had that compartment designated for power distribution and relays.
Oh, and Hydramat (i.e. larger fuel sock) will definitely help. Mine would be easily adaptable to Hydramat.
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It's home. Missing a few parts but RCR is on top of it. It's funny though. I've spent the last year and half researching everyone's builds. I get this thing I my garage any now I've got more questions and a splash of doubt, not that I can complete it, but exactly what I want to complete. The wheels are loaners as there was an issue in widening them but you get the idea.
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15x9.5 with Goodyear blue streak 6.00-15
It makes me happy you noticed those. Things that ugly should never go unnoticed.
My wheels, (car delivered July ~3) are still missing as a result of them widening on the wrong side as well. Fran has always delivered on backordered parts, and I think he is working to make things even better.
Is your car a +2 or +4? Mine is +4 and I do not have front flares like you do? Was that extra?
Dennis
Is your car a +2 or +4? Mine is +4 and I do not have front flares like you do? Was that extra?
Dennis
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