Jimmymac & Alistair's Monocoque Cars

Markus

SPRF40
Lifetime Supporter
James,

Are you going for a internal hydraulic release bearing?

May I ask why?

1. Was that ever original?
2. Leak issues with that setup?

Maybe I'm misinterpretating the braided hose coming out of the bell housing.....

Markus
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
Hallo Markus,

Yes indeed, we are using custom made HRBs.

I don't believe that they were used originally.
The car is a racer with a spare gearbox so the box will have regular changeovers and the original external slave / lever / rod / pin system is a bit too temperamental to setup and frankly we didn't really like the look of it.
I have all those original slave parts and will fit them as dummies on my own bellhousing.
 

Markus

SPRF40
Lifetime Supporter
James,

thanks for your reply.

Would you mind posting some pics of your custom made HRB - I'm just curious as this is a general topic around here and my HRB is currently developing a leak which I need to take care - I was thinking to convert back the original setup..... (I have collected some components but still need some more).

Sorry for the slight drift....

Regards
Markus
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
James,

thanks for your reply.

Would you mind posting some pics of your custom made HRB - I'm just curious as this is a general topic around here and my HRB is currently developing a leak which I need to take care - I was thinking to convert back the original setup..... (I have collected some components but still need some more).

Sorry for the slight drift....

Regards

Markus

Markus,

No worries.

We started with a modified Tilton 6000 HRB for the ZF then added an extra oil seal groove to the inner face of the threaded mounting sleeve to improve the seal on the gearbox outer casing.

This is what we started with :

It worked really well on the first engine set up..
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
Good news this week for a change.:):)

When we installed alloy fuel tanks and we wanted small footprint senders in the fuel safe foam so decided to try modern VDO senders.
The shortest VDO dip tube sender is sold at 150mm and we had to shorten these a little to fit the sloping bottom of the tanks.

Then we got new artwork done for the dials and had the low ohm gauges custom made with VDO electronics and calibrated to the dip tubes.
Another issue is to make adapters for VDO 5 bolt to original Smiths 6 bolt fitting.

They were tested and work perfectly.

The gauges don't have the red plastic shrouds in yet. A little job for tonight.
IMG_1027.JPG
 

Doc Watson

Lifetime Supporter
Its pictures like this that help motivate me to get my sorry ass into the shed and move my build forward. As always James superb......
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
The new dash for the road car which has taken me ages. It's finally in primer and ready for painting and trimming.
After the Grady Davis first Gulf car P1049 with the two additional gauge pods and the fuse box.
I won't be fitting a clock but using an original fuel pressure gauge instead.

fullsizeoutput_ef9.jpeg
fullsizeoutput_ef6.jpeg
fullsizeoutput_ef8.jpeg
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
I’m hoping that you will be fitting a remote fuel pressure isolator rather than running a pressure line into the cockpit. Granted 3-4 PSI is not a lot, but enough....
Two things I would sacrifice in regard to originality are directly fed Fuel Pressure and Amp Gauges...
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
Hi Randy,
Absolutely agree with you.
I will fit the fuel isolator at the engine side of the firewall and run a pressure line with glycerine or glycol to the instrument.
As regards the CAV ammeter, I intend to use a rare CAV 0-25v volt meter which is almost identical.
 
How does the lower edge fit up to the chassis James. This is one angle that you don't normally see. It looks like you have the correct flange there to tie in with the bottom of the monocoque, is that what i am seeing.

Ryan
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
Ryan,

FWIW - Yes, in my opinion.

However a lot of dashes on original cars did not fit properly as the bottom fibreglass skirt was poorly made to a full radius with no flat in the middle.
The curved front of the dash also has a lot of spring-back when it comes out of the mould and shortens the overall depth.

So these days we are now unfortunate to have the copies of original errors which are made worse because plug copies of fibreglass are usually undersized.

Photos of the fit on a couple of well known original cars below to offer my theory :

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HM 2008 008.jpg
HM 2008 009.jpg
 
Great photos James. It’s an angle you almost never see of these cars.
my dash, which I presume is ex KVA still has the angled front edge on top to meet the bottom of the windscreen frame but the lower edge is missing. Still trying to decide what I will do in that area. Given that I am quite tall some extra knee clearance would be nice.
Ryan
 
Great photos James. It’s an angle you almost never see of these cars.
my dash, which I presume is ex KVA still has the angled front edge on top to meet the bottom of the windscreen frame but the lower edge is missing. Still trying to decide what I will do in that area. Given that I am quite tall some extra knee clearance would be nice.
Ryan

I wouldn't worry about this Ryan, I'd sat in 3 original GT40s before I even noticed it :)

Regards,

Graham.
 
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