Darius - RCR GT40 MK1 Build

[Darius Rudis]

On Father's Day, picked up an "already started" 2015 Ford GT - RCR GT40 MK1.
Engine/trans already installed.
Looking forward to finishing this project.
More info, specs, and photos soon...

 

[Darius Rudis]

Purchased from this site.
2015 RCR GT40 Mk1 Deluxe Plus kit LHD
363cid BMP 8.2” aluminum block w/4 bolt splayed billet caps, 540hp/506tq
G96/50 (996 Carrera 2) from GBOX w/ G50 LSD Giken Superlock 6-speed transaxle

Intentions are to drive to Ice Cream store, on Saturdays cruise to CarsAndCoffee, and then occasionally take it to the Track to stretch her legs.

 

[Randy Folsom]

The Mustang looks like an SUV sitting side by side with GT40

 

[Darius Rudis]

Step#1 completed,
On to Step#2:

 

[Darius Rudis]

QUESTION #1 (of many...): Should I fab a spacer and bolt?
RCR instructions state to use 3 washers... where mine doesnt even make use of that bolt (BLUE), nor is there any bracket/spacer.

 

[Randy Folsom]

The kit I received last month didn’t include bolts for those holes.

 

[Darius Rudis]

Looking for replacement oilpan for RCR GT40-MK1 302W-based (363cid) engine.

TWO Questions:

1. Do I use AVIAID #155-55362 ? (because of my unique starter install, see photos = okay?)
2. Can/should I use my existing Teflon scraper? (already have it, reuse it?)

Currently tried-fit the Canton, but it is 9” deep, and hangs below floorpan (by 2.0"):

Clearance for the starter (non-issue):

Can I re-use this Teflon Crank Scraper: https://www.crank-scrapers.com/Ford_V8_Windsor.html

Note to self (text version for searches):
https://aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/ws_oilpns_sbf.html
SBF - 289/302, 6-1/2" deep extended front sump, original Daytona Coupe, built 1" shallower than 289 Cobra pan to maintain ground clearance in Daytona Coupes where engines were lowered 1". Suitable for GT-40 replicars with conventional flywheels and modern small starters. Original GT-40 cars require GT-40 pan (155-55360) which provide notch for starter clearance for OEM Ford large diameter starter on 104 tooth flywheel. Includes custom pickup.
Length: 15" Depth: 6 1/2" Width: 12" Quarts: 6
Price: $594.60
SKU: 155-55362

 

[Darius Rudis]

Does this manifold come with "the deluxe kit", or do you guys buy that separately?
Ditto for the heater-core feeder T-connection? Where & part# ?

I seem to have all the other Vintage Air parts, just missing the manifold and T-connections (2).
[edit] Sourcing them thru SummitRacing right now...

 

[Neal]

Neither were part of my system I received two months ago. Multiple sources, vintage, classic air, old air, Amazon, etc.

 

[Darius Rudis]

What did you use for "rubber grommet spacer" here... ?
Like stiff rubber, or just window sealing foam tape ?

 

[Neal]

I used these…. Tank Bushings

 

[joe]

I used these to isolate my radiator after building a front frame for my AP build.

Amazon.com

 

[Darius Rudis]

I used these to isolate my radiator after building a front frame for my AP build.

Amazon.com

Thanks. Just ordered. Will also use these for the 2 electric fuel pumps, for sound isolation.

 

[Darius Rudis]

Do you guys perfer the rubber-lines to hard-lines to the evaporator (like RCR manual) ?
JUST to/from evap, seems like bending a few lines is easier than converting to rubber-lines...? Your thoughts?

 

[Paul T.]

I used a combination of both. Mostly hard lines where possible to compact and save space. Even ran hard lines thru spine, wrapped with temp shield and then heat shrink. I used heat shrink on all the hard lines for scuff protection and to help with any condensation. Used hose for a/c under dash and from spine lines connection to compressor.

 

[Neal]

I ran hard lines from the condenser and bent them over the top of the radiator. No need to cut the side plate. Rubber lines in the spine. I would have run them in the spine in hindsight as it saves space and allow you to crimp your fitting on the workbench…

 

[Randy V]

Frankly - I prefer properly secured hard lines for long runs and rubber as a buffer to connection points. Rationale being - rubber doesn’t work-harden and crack from vibration. I haven’t seen anyone do it yet, but stainless steel hard lines for the long runs would be perfect in my opinion.

 

[Darius Rudis]

Public Service Announcement: DONT get the Summit off-brand manifold. Threads are junk, and Vintage-Air works properly. SummitRacing didnt even want the part back, just Destroy.

 

[Randy V]

Public Service Announcement: DONT get the Summit off-brand manifold. Threads are junk, and Vintage-Air works properly. SummitRacing didnt even want the part back, just Destroy. View attachment 141009

 

[Randy V]

This is becoming more and more of a problem with imported items with threads. Particularly if the threads are not meant to be metric. It’s like they just don’t understand the fractions….
I got a piece a few weeks back that was supposed to have 1/4-20 threads and 3/8-16 threads. Neither was correct. The 1/4-20 would bind up after 3 turns of the fastener and the 3/8-16 was very loose!