Yes, a while ago a guy suggested using engineering blue on the mating surfaces to check for contact.
Knock On Spinners - How Do You Manage Them
- Thread starter Jay Gadsby
- Start date
Thanks everyone, I've found a Thor Lead Hammer 2800gr at a great price - £40, arriving tomorrow.
I was using a Thor copper hammer which came with the car and is much lighter, so was probably a bit part of the problem?
Do you think?
I'll try and call Frank later to get some of his immeasurable advice.
I was using a Thor copper hammer which came with the car and is much lighter, so was probably a bit part of the problem?
Do you think?
I'll try and call Frank later to get some of his immeasurable advice.
my experience with 40 Years of Jaguar spoke wheels: proper lube of the thread (I use bronze paste) and then knock on using the sound test - nothing insane! I've never had the problem of a spinner going loose let alone of loosing a wheel. Jaguar parts suppliers offer a suitable hammer. Often I have a hard time getting the spinner off for removal of the spinner. Then I lift the wheel off the ground and tap patiently, sometimes rotating the wheel to the next ear. Eventually it will come off. On the GT40 by law I have to use the hex nuts and safety pins. On two of the new nuts I had a machine shop get the thread right. Again, my problem usually is getting the nuts off. I need a long lever and lean on it full body weight with wheels/steering blocked ;-) Don't know how I would remove the hex nuts a trip. Definitely I'd need to take along the 3" nut. They are not common here 
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...my experience with 40 Years of Jaguar spoke wheels: proper lube of the thread (I use bronze paste) and then knock on using the sound test - nothing insane! I've never had the problem of a spinner going loose let alone of loosing a wheel. Jaguar parts suppliers offer a suitable hammer. Often I have a hard time getting the spinner off for removal of the spinner. Then I lift the wheel off the ground and tap patiently, sometimes rotating the wheel to the next ear. Eventually it will come off. On the GT40 by law I have to use the hex nuts and safety pins. On two of the new nuts I had a machine shop get the thread right. Again, my problem usually is getting the nuts off. I need a long lever and lean on it full body weight with wheels/steering blocked ;-) Don't know how I would remove the hex nuts a trip. Definitely I'd need to take along the 3" nut. They are not common here
That's an interesting reply, howlin.man as is Jean-Marc's: using a lubricant on the threads which seems to oppose the camp using no lubricant.
And linked with Morten's contribution: the "SGT" spinner and the "Superperformance" style have significantly different arm lengths so wouldn't that make a difference to the blow force requirement?
Just trying to make a bit of sense and logic about the praxis.
Mark H could be illuminating the cause of my couple of incidents - being a machining / mating problem with a certain match of spinner / wheel.
I've got four new spinners on now so I can change now.
new spinners: check for proper thread first. Spinners should turn quite easily. Alumin(i)um is soft and easily distorted/damaged - so don't force them. Are your hubs new as well? If not, their thread may show some wear or slight damage? Have them checked before doing anything to the spinners.
Longer spinners obviously take less force for same torque - but the torque measurement does not depend on the length of the ears ;-)
On the wide rear wheels (mine are 10x15") the spinner needs to be hit at a slight angle. I use an old rag or strong masking tape to protect the spinner from the blows of the hammer - as J-M says, a spinner adapter and a torque wrench come in handy here.
Best luck - I'm just about to go down to my garage and change rear wheels (hex nuts however)
Thanks Walter, the threads are good and I can spin them up and down with one finger.new spinners: check for proper thread first. Spinners should turn quite easily. Alumin(i)um is soft and easily distorted/damaged - so don't force them. Are your hubs new as well? If not, their thread may show some wear or slight damage? Have them checked before doing anything to the spinners.
Longer spinners obviously take less force for same torque - but the torque measurement does not depend on the length of the ears ;-)
On the wide rear wheels (mine are 10x15") the spinner needs to be hit at a slight angle. I use an old rag or strong masking tape to protect the spinner from the blows of the hammer - as J-M says, a spinner adapter and a torque wrench come in handy here.
Best luck - I'm just about to go down to my garage and change rear wheels (hex nuts however)
The 6 lb lead hammer arrives tomorrow and they are drilled ready for safety wire.
Howard Jones
Supporter
I have a length of 2"X 2"aluminum square rod about two feet long. I use it as a driver to avoid hitting the car or the wheel with the hammer. Since I am not hitting the spinner directly with the hammer I can use a steel hammer. It will last forever and I can use it for other things.
This method allows for a very uniform hits, in both the amount of energy and repeatability, and precise contact angle on the spinner wing. This is important to get equal torque per hit both on and off. I am also able to "feel" each hit much better.
This method allows for a very uniform hits, in both the amount of energy and repeatability, and precise contact angle on the spinner wing. This is important to get equal torque per hit both on and off. I am also able to "feel" each hit much better.
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You might also want to check out this thread… A lot of great info -
^^^^^ LINK ^^^^^
^^^^^ LINK ^^^^^
Left Side - clockwise.You might also want to check out this thread… A lot of great info -
^^^^^ LINK ^^^^^
Right Side - anti-clockwise.
"Over the top and to the back' is my mantra.
There's YouTube video of a "F1" pitstop and the "wheelman" (being generous here!) is beating hell out of a spinner.
It's not hard to work out what's going on.
Note: grease, lubricant, Anti-Seize are not the same!!!
I think an "Anti-Seize Lubricant" is the proper wording - I have good experience with putting it on the threats as well as the taper (mating surface between spinner and wheel). Be aware that you should open the spinner once in a while (once/year?)
Neil
Supporter
Frankly, I would not run knock- off hubs these days. They are obsolete for good reasons.
1. They are not secure.
2, The hub assembly is heavy,
3. The stresses on the wheel are high.
3. They are prone to seize.
4. They offer no advantage in speed of mount/dismount.
Of course those who are interested in originality are saddled with these disadvantages. A 5 on 5 stud mounted wheel is far superior.
1. They are not secure.
2, The hub assembly is heavy,
3. The stresses on the wheel are high.
3. They are prone to seize.
4. They offer no advantage in speed of mount/dismount.
Of course those who are interested in originality are saddled with these disadvantages. A 5 on 5 stud mounted wheel is far superior.
Looks like my earlier link on this thread did not work.
We have a tool available for spinner removal and refitting.
Why risk hitting your expensive wheel rim with a lump hammer? And trust me you will at some point.
Or snapping an ear off your expensive wheel spinner by putting shock load all on one ear?
Using any type of hammer damages the spinner when you hit it as hard as you need to.
The tool engages with the hole in the hub, has rubber protectors so as not to damage the spinner and evenly distributes the force through all 3 ears on the spinners to reduce load.
Use a 3/4" drive breaker bar or even a suitable torque wrench to ensure the spinner is tightened to the correct torque.
We have even used this tool to remove a stuck spinner that the customer had already broken 2 ears off the spinner using a lead hammer.
When I see somebody hitting a spinner with a lump hammer it always makes me cringe.
For further information email Tornado Sports Cars.
Thanks
Andy
We have a tool available for spinner removal and refitting.
Why risk hitting your expensive wheel rim with a lump hammer? And trust me you will at some point.
Or snapping an ear off your expensive wheel spinner by putting shock load all on one ear?
Using any type of hammer damages the spinner when you hit it as hard as you need to.
The tool engages with the hole in the hub, has rubber protectors so as not to damage the spinner and evenly distributes the force through all 3 ears on the spinners to reduce load.
Use a 3/4" drive breaker bar or even a suitable torque wrench to ensure the spinner is tightened to the correct torque.
We have even used this tool to remove a stuck spinner that the customer had already broken 2 ears off the spinner using a lead hammer.
When I see somebody hitting a spinner with a lump hammer it always makes me cringe.
For further information email Tornado Sports Cars.
Thanks
Andy
Attachments
Thanks Andy,
The link didn't open for me - but I knew you were referring to the "spinner tool".
I'd seen it on your website a while ago.
I'll look into that at some point into the near future.
I dunno, I think you guys whacking spinners on with a hammer, versus using the tool, are nuts - when a single nut is the difference between you staying on the road and crashing, a bunch of random hammer whacks doesn't make me feel warm-and-fuzzy.
My 917 uses centerlocks. I have a 3/4'' torque wrench that's about 4 feet long - I torque to 330ft-lbs using my pinky finger. And I've got a ~5ft long 3/4'' breaker bar for removal.
Granted the tools cost me ~$1,500 vs $20 for your hammer - but I don't want to crash. Or find a seized-on nut. (obviously you can't hammer on a centerlock nut, but if I had spinners I'd still buy the proper tools)
My 917 uses centerlocks. I have a 3/4'' torque wrench that's about 4 feet long - I torque to 330ft-lbs using my pinky finger. And I've got a ~5ft long 3/4'' breaker bar for removal.
Granted the tools cost me ~$1,500 vs $20 for your hammer - but I don't want to crash. Or find a seized-on nut. (obviously you can't hammer on a centerlock nut, but if I had spinners I'd still buy the proper tools)
Here's a good review of the Oldtimers tool.
www.lamborghiniespada.com
Review: Knock off spinner tool from Oldtimertools.de – Lamborghini Espada
www.lamborghiniespada.com
Rob Klein
Supporter
It's been a minute I checked my torque wrench and it's set to 350lbs
