Chuck's Jaguar D Type Build

Neil

Supporter
I don’t comment often - but I never miss a chance to review your progress on this fantastic effort… Thanks for sharing it with us!
I saw that you swapped the slotted screws for philips heads and was curious why…
One of the things that I really didn’t enjoy about working on old British cars was that they seemed to use a lot of slotted screws and almost always had a very shallow slot..
Slotted screws are an abomination! After a while, they get buggered up and usually have screwdriver blade marks along side. :mad:
 

Chuck

Supporter
I don’t comment often - but I never miss a chance to review your progress on this fantastic effort… Thanks for sharing it with us!
I saw that you swapped the slotted screws for philips heads and was curious why…
One of the things that I really didn’t enjoy about working on old British cars was that they seemed to use a lot of slotted screws and almost always had a very shallow slot..
Thanks, Randy.

Yes, I should be using slotted, not Phillips. In visible locations, that is the plan. In this location, the screws won't be seen and are easier to work with. Of course, now that your sharp eye has noted that discrepancy, I may need to replace them!
 

Chuck

Supporter
Fuel Filler Door, Part III

The holes in the lower bracket that hold the mechanism are slightly oversized to allow adjustment of the roller grab latch mechanism's height and its position relative to the grab pin. A good alignment was easily achieved. It snaps in place securely, probably tighter than the original.

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The original had a hole, about an inch in diameter, below the door opening that one would use to push the latch inward to open the fuel door. We decided to add this detail, but placed the opening on the door itself to make it easy to pull open. Hopefully, only the most fanatical D-Type purists will notice that the hole is in the wrong place.

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We spent some time sanding the glass to work towards an even 1/8” gap around the door. Minimal filler will be needed when we start the serious body prep.

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Next, we plan to sew the upholstery, which I suspect will take a while.
 

Chuck

Supporter
Upholstery, Part I

Although Ryan and I have taken hundreds of photographs of original D-types, much about the seats remains difficult to figure out. Like the details of how the seats are designed.

Few of the original D-types in existence have original seats, and there is considerable variation in the replacement upholstery seen today. That means a prototype may exist somewhere for most any reasonable seat arrangement.

This picture captures the look we are seeking.

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I have never sewn a single stitch, so learning to sew was the first order of business. There is an abundance of sewing videos, some good, others a waste of time. Between watching videos and making two, three, sometimes four, practice pieces, we gradually got the hang of sewing. Since this is a new endeavor for me, I welcome any advice.

I doubt anyone reading this will be fabricating their own seats, so the posts that follow will probably be a condensed summary of what will likely take many weeks.
 

Brian Kissel

Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Very Nice Chuck. I believe there were a couple of forum members in the UK that stitched their own seats. Hopefully they will read this and provide some input. Best of luck.

Regards Brian
 

Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
Very Nice Chuck. I believe there were a couple of forum members in the UK that stitched their own seats. Hopefully they will read this and provide some input. Best of luck.

Regards Brian
One member on here does this professionally…..on dentist chairs!
But he sold his Southern GT in the last while and not sure if he still checks in!

Ian
 

Chuck

Supporter
Upholstery, Part II

The first project was the seat bottoms. Construction of the seat frame was described in a series of posts long ago, so the current goal was to fabricate a cushion for those frames that would be comfortable and resemble the original's look.

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A one-quarter-inch plywood base was cut to match the seat frame's dimensions. Polyurethane was applied to both sides. Slots were cut to connect the thigh cushion section to the frame on the driver’s side to maintain the shape.

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Four T-nuts secure the plywood base to the seat frame.

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One-inch-thick medium-firm foam was cut to shape. The thigh support was cut from one inch soft foam, shaped, and glued to the bottom foam with 3M 77 adhesive.

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Making detailed patterns for the dark green vinyl was a slow, time-consuming process, but necessary because it had to be cut as precisely as possible. Once a design was determined and the patterns cut, the actual sewing could begin. Finally.
 

Chuck

Supporter
Upholstery, Part III

The passenger's bottom seat was completed first, since it is a simple flat panel. The driver's bottom seat, with multiple panels and a thigh bolster, was more challenging. Working slowly, it took a couple of days to cut the pieces and sew them together for each seat. The driver's seat is shown in these photos.

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The foam was covered with a plastic trash bag to make it easier to fit the cover. The seat cover was stapled to the plywood base, which was then screwed to the seat frame with the T-nuts.

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The cushions were set in the D and taken for an extended test sitting in the garage while making engine sounds. They are quite comfortable!

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The back cushions are next.
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Your talents are limitless!
The progress you’ve made with this car is phenomenal.
 
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