You will loose traction and spin out due to cold tires
:A NACA duct cut into and installed behind the front tire along the floor/body-mount extension will move air along that tunnel where the radiator pipes are and into the engine bay.
A Better Way to Insulate the Passenger Compartment from Heat
- Thread starter Bassanio et Portia
- Start date
:A NACA duct cut into and installed behind the front tire along the floor/body-mount extension will move air along that tunnel where the radiator pipes are and into the engine bay.
Has anyone tried exhaust eductors? Exhaust pipes exit through larger diameter tubes and terminate while in the tube. This entrains air from the forward side, engine bay, and removes it.
If you modify the bonnet air scoops to pitch to the floor pan you will find that heat from the radiator bypasses the fire wall. You can also use areogel 3mm or 10mm blanket inside the cockpit with you can cut to size with scissors. Areogel has three amazing properties. 1/ heat insulation 2/ fire barrier and 3/ sound insulation. I have used used it in my seats and inside the engine bulkhead aluminum panels. In addition I have used the 3mm areogel across cockpit engine bulkhead. I used thin plywood sheets backed with areogel 3mm blanket and then covered with black leatherette. The insulation panels are then screwed to bulkhead. Access panels are made in the same way.
There are two types of areogel, one is manufactured in the US and the other in China. The Chinese product has amazing fire and heat protection qualities. I have held a steel radiator pipe wrapped in a 10mm areogel and cut the pipe with an oxyacetylene torch. The metal was glowing white hot and yet I could hardly feel any heat transfer through the areogel 10mm blanket wrap.(I was not wearing gloves). Whereas, I do not recommend doing this without protective gloves , the product heat insulation qualities are simply extraordinary.
There are two types of areogel, one is manufactured in the US and the other in China. The Chinese product has amazing fire and heat protection qualities. I have held a steel radiator pipe wrapped in a 10mm areogel and cut the pipe with an oxyacetylene torch. The metal was glowing white hot and yet I could hardly feel any heat transfer through the areogel 10mm blanket wrap.(I was not wearing gloves). Whereas, I do not recommend doing this without protective gloves , the product heat insulation qualities are simply extraordinary.
And no, I didn't pull the measurements out of thin air, here's the calculator.
Well perhaps a stupid question, but for the large air gaps into the crew cab, has anyone ever explored using expanding foam (like the stuff used around Windows/doors) to close out heat and noise.
There are certainly a lot of tear down issues with the stuff, but if it could be installed without sticking to everything, does it merit any thought?
:huh:
There are certainly a lot of tear down issues with the stuff, but if it could be installed without sticking to everything, does it merit any thought?
:huh:
Mcmaster Carr has expanding foam strip that has adhesive on one side ...
we use this a lot and it works very well...
http://www.mcmaster.com/#expanding-foam-tape/=sus58d
we use this a lot and it works very well...
http://www.mcmaster.com/#expanding-foam-tape/=sus58d
Last edited:
For heat you may look at Kool Mat then taking advantage of low and high pressure areas to draw air into the engine compartment may help. Fran might be able to provide some more information on belly pans for race applications.
I have also considered, if I were to build this car, ducting the radiator out of the front differently. Using the wheel wells low pressure area to vent the air.
Just remember there is no best solution. What works "well" for one may not work for you.
I have also considered, if I were to build this car, ducting the radiator out of the front differently. Using the wheel wells low pressure area to vent the air.
Just remember there is no best solution. What works "well" for one may not work for you.
Wheel wells are not actually low pressure areas.
They are very high pressure areas hence the reasons we and race cars use fender vents and wickers to pull that high pressure volume of air out as fast as possible helping to balance front/rear downforce .
Pulling air from under the car and over the windscreen area helps make the front splitter more affective and also creates better airflow to the rear wing ... Better overall balance had shown in our exhaustive CFD tests on the SLC and now also the new Superlite Aero ...:thumbsup:
They are very high pressure areas hence the reasons we and race cars use fender vents and wickers to pull that high pressure volume of air out as fast as possible helping to balance front/rear downforce .
Pulling air from under the car and over the windscreen area helps make the front splitter more affective and also creates better airflow to the rear wing ... Better overall balance had shown in our exhaustive CFD tests on the SLC and now also the new Superlite Aero ...:thumbsup:
Last edited:
Received the expanding foam, but before going hog wild crazy with the stuff a question:
The semi circle plate located on the top backside of the roll bar is cut so that creates a significant gap between it and the roll bar. It does appear to be structural outside of mounting stuff on it, so......
Can it trimmed to attach more direct to the roll bar, reducing the gap to help seal the cockpit better? It's still there fo mounting stuff, just closes that gap a lot.
Am I not seeing something obvious?
The semi circle plate located on the top backside of the roll bar is cut so that creates a significant gap between it and the roll bar. It does appear to be structural outside of mounting stuff on it, so......
Can it trimmed to attach more direct to the roll bar, reducing the gap to help seal the cockpit better? It's still there fo mounting stuff, just closes that gap a lot.
Am I not seeing something obvious?
