Ago's scratchbuilt GT40 Mk I

The 302 short block is now a long block, next step is to source the intake manifold for the quad webers.
I also spent a lot of time looking around for the original air vents but they are really rare, so I opted for 3D printing the internal parts and to mount them into Capri's air vent houses.
View attachment 116769View attachment 116771
I can confirm the Capri vents and the zephyr ones are the same size in terms of ball.
What water pump is that on the engine?
Rest of the build is looking great in the above posts as well.
keep going.

Ryan
 

Agostino

Supporter
Hi Ryan, I have around an in-line Craig electric water pump and I want to use it in my project. To simplify the connection to the engine I decided to use a standard sbf water pump with the front flange for the pulley removed and sealed with a plug, so I can use the water pump connections for plumbing and I remove any risk for the front clearance between the engine and the firewall. This is something that I saw a lot of time ago in a build thread, I cannot remember exactly where, but I liked the idea.
Regards,
Agostino
 
I was thinking the same thing.
What do you do for the auxiliary drive belt. Are you just going to run from the crank to the alternator and back again?
Also, what are you going to do for battery placement. I think I want to put mine in the left rear side sill, as per original road cars and have been stuck at this point with the design for the last 6 months as I have had too many other things on the go.
If the battery goes in the passenger foot well there seems to be a few more channels that you need to weld in that are not in the drawings.

Ryan
 

Agostino

Supporter
Yes, the alternator is the only thing I need to drive (no servo or A/C).
For the battery I'm still considering what to do. My original idea was to stay with the road car placement near the left fuel tank, but recently I'm considering to put it at the passenger foot. This second option may require much less work, from the limited info that I have the attachment points are quite simple, a folded channel similar to the rail for the pedal box to create a basement for the battery at the same level of the channel in the front part of the floor and two L shaped channels with a nut welded in the middle to attach the battery fixing bracket. I can send you a drawing as soon as I finish them with the CAD. Moreover the front positioning can allow to simplify the fuel tanks design, I'm planning to build alloy tanks from myself and a single design for both tanks can help to save time.

Agostino
 

Neil

Supporter
Battery location in the passenger foot well helps balance the car's weight. I'd recommend putting the battery in an enclosed box if it is in the cockpit.
 

Also, I had the same problem with the end of the footbox, where there is that impossible gap that the folds create. If you extend the doubler that is used for the suspension mount upwards you can close that off. Ill see if I can find a photo.
 

Agostino

Supporter
Hi Ryan,
you can find some pictures of this solution in Rune's buildlog,


take a look at post #69 and #70.
The second channel looks placed just where the front part of the chassis narrows, with an L folded bracket with the nut hole being attached just at the back of this second channel. The front L with the nut hole for the battery fixing is a little bit behind the floor channel, so the space for the passenger feet is a little bit reduced compared to the driver. I don't know if it makes a big difference for the usability of the second seat, the passenger comfort on a GT40 looks to me a big compromise in any case.
On the other hand the battery tray in the rear of the left fuel tank asks a lot of work, cutting and trimming the final sill rib and building a battery tray that leave access to the connection to the fuel tank that must be designed to have a lateral pick-up connection. There are some nice pictures of what I mean on Gelscoe website in the Mirage GT40 build description.

Agostino
 
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