And so it begins...the AP build.
- Thread starter jlwdvm
- Start date
I’m no mathematician, but these numbers don’t add up. With the rockers flush with the front and rear clams, and equal measurements from the top corners of the rockers to the tires all being equal, the gap left to fit the door plus 3/16" on each end of the door for the gaps...the doors are too long. I guess it;s time to bust out the body saw and grinder, in case someone has a better idea!
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Looks almost right = not too far out
see this thread it shows active power side on on the trailer and your space looks ok
Ian
Rick's Active Power GT40 Build
Well, here we go. I think I have enough parts to get started on this build and create a thread for it. Picked up 2 of these beauties back in June from Chris at Active Power / Ardern Cars. They are the ones with the chassis stretched 4" from the original for a wheelbase of 99" In the shop...
www.gt40s.com
see this thread it shows active power side on on the trailer and your space looks ok
Ian
I had some of the same questions.. After examining dozens of photos of the originals, it was clear that the spider was supposed to have a mild “peak” to it.. Many replicas are built with totally flat roofs and I don’t believe that is correct - at least for a Mk1.
These are not great photos, but I believe they properly represent what the original car looked like.
These are not great photos, but I believe they properly represent what the original car looked like.
I rebuilt the rear hinge because:
1. The clam needed to be moved forward.
2. It was too narrow and pulling in in the inner fenders.
3. The frame mounts looked like a 3rd grader made them.
The tires are centered in each wheel well and the overhang over the tire is within a millimeter side-to-side. OCD satisfied…for now.
1. The clam needed to be moved forward.
2. It was too narrow and pulling in in the inner fenders.
3. The frame mounts looked like a 3rd grader made them.
The tires are centered in each wheel well and the overhang over the tire is within a millimeter side-to-side. OCD satisfied…for now.
Attachments
Neil
Supporter
Nice work. A small suggestion... instead of leaving square corners on flat steel or aluminum pieces, put a radius on those corners. The square corners add nothing but a minuscule amount of weight and a sharp corner can punch a hole on the panel it is mounted on. Radiused corners add an look of professionalism as well. I recommend using a 4" belt sander with 3M Cubitron abrasive to quickly round off the corners.
I'll touch up things prior to finish welding and paint. I wanted to make sure everything worked as I wanted first.
Removed the front end to start mocking up the radiator. First thing noticed was that it appears that the single opening extractor will need to be trimmed…or the radiator moved forward. I’m planning on framing in the front end with 1.5” square steel tubing, even before I realized that the complete front end would have been supported by 1/8” aluminum sheet and 4 bolts into the bulk head. The original rad support panels were mounted narrower that the width of the radiator anyway. Good thing I like to weld!
Rad is where it needs to be. I used a piece of scrap as a spacer to allow for the AC condenser so there would be no interference with the hinge bar. The dashed line on the closeout panel was traced with the snorkel in place prior to mounting the rad. I plan to use 1/4” rubber
spacers between the rad mount and the close out panel. I see lots of cutting and splicing of the snorkel to get it to function properly. The rad will not be the lowest point on the front end.
The first cut is the deepest. Rad inlet-outlets are level and nothing will hang lower than the floor that will be added to the frunk. I’ll fab up the 1.5” square tube frame for the rad support one side at a time…with the current setup holding everything in place for mock up.
Anyone have any ideas on how to get the shape of the front hood where it needs to be? Heat, strategically placed cuts and glass, etc?
Anyone have any ideas on how to get the shape of the front hood where it needs to be? Heat, strategically placed cuts and glass, etc?
Yes, front clam is sitting correct on the front hinge and resting on the rocker at the rear. I think the hood is really warped. The curve is off, and it won’t even sit properly front to rear when it is pressed down. If the gap is correct at the front, the rear won’t slip over the lip in the opening at the rear….like it isn’t long enough.
Wow - I’ve never seen such a poor fit coming from Active Power’s panels…. I’m presuming that you’ve contacted them and they can’t help. With that, it’s time to break out the heat gun and warp that panel back into compliance.. there’s going to be a significant amount of glass work too.. I recommend West Systems resins..
