And so it begins...the AP build.

[joe]

I split the inner door structure, as advised, and it released the door lip. You can see how much it was warped by looking at the resulting gap when it was clamped to a piece of angle iron.
While I’m waiting for the epoxy to set, I decided to fill the large hole that AP sends the cats with. I plan on mocking up the door, clamping it in place, then making a narrower slot for the door to bolt to.

 

[joe]

The inside seams of the door are rough, to say the least. But who cars if they will never be seen? I decided to mix up some resin and filler just thick enough to add some strength, but still be able to flow into the cracks and smooth out the corner to form a fillet. A layer of mat went over that to make sure the lower door lip has plenty of strength to hold its straightness. OCD….maybe.

 

[joe]

…how they are shipped.

 

[joe]

The driver’s door is much better. I should be able to bodywork it straight.

 

[joe]

Straight.

 

[Devin]

Straight.View attachment 149351View attachment 149352

Nice work Joe…unfortunate that it had to take this much additional work to make them right.

 

[joe]

Trying to decide what the best plan of attack will be to even up the gap between the lower windshield and the spider. It’s a pretty complex shape the spider in this area. Not sure how well it will take to heating, pushing, and pulling. I’d have to get creative with bracing to allow for leverage. Part of me thinks cutting the spider off at one of the lower corners, setting the gap at the top of the windshield, then heating and bending the spider around the lower windshield from one end the to other would also work…and maybe better. Either way, the gap around the windshield averages 1/16”, which seems a little tight to me.

 

[Daniel Lorenz]

I would say to aim for just below 1/8" gap.
Regarding the bending shape.
Just cut and reshape the lower frame for the window. It is quite easy, and you can maker smaller adjustments with a strong filler.
Ignore height, that can be adjusted by fiberenforced filler as well.
The most important part for fitting is the shape around the window and towards the front hood.(but mostly window, since that can't be modified easily)

 

[joe]

Time to bust out the calculator and see where there is five and take. Probably why fitting these bodies is an exercise in madness.

 

[joe]

Major facebook marketplace score…a new Aeromotive 340 fuel pump kit at 1/2 price! Now, if I could just get all of the body panels to line up so I could move on to mechanical.

 

[joe]

Upon further review, the driver’s door was worse than first thought….basically as bad as the passenger’s side. It’s a fairly easy fix. The Jegs kart arrived. I think it will work well for moving the car around and allow for good access to body panels during the gapping and bodywork phase.

 

[joe]

I’m not sure if it matters or not, but after the slice and after clamping the door bottom straight, I heated the lower lip and door panel up to relax the fiberglass a little before it was epoxied.

 

[Douglas]

That cart definitely looks convenient! I might pick one up.

 

[joe]

I have to get 2 6’ sections on square tubing to replace the original sides because of the design of the AP chassis. I don’t want the car resting on the rockers, and I want to be able to remove them as well, if needed.

 

[Joe]

2nd side always goes faster and better. The 2” angle iron is used to establish a flat level surface the same width as the eventual gap.View attachment 136518View attachment 136519View attachment 136520View attachment 136521View attachment 136522

I just realized your rear hartwell latch location is completely diff spot than mine

 

[Joe]

Catching up on your build, really looking good. The added plywood upgrade in rear hatch looks awesome.

 

[joe]

I’m not even sure if they were always in the same location on the original cars!
Adding the inner structure to the rear clam was a lot of work, but worth it. It and a TON of stiffness, and will loot sharp when showing off the motor.
My build has been on hold since October due to deer season, and I’ll be moving soon as well. The new garage will actually be a detached 3-car for the finished cars, and a 30x60 shop for the works in progress.

 

[Joe]

I’m not even sure if they were always in the same location on the original cars!
Adding the inner structure to the rear clam was a lot of work, but worth it. It and a TON of stiffness, and will loot sharp when showing off the motor.
My build has been on hold since October due to deer season, and I’ll be moving soon as well. The new garage will actually be a detached 3-car for the finished cars, and a 30x60 shop for the works in progress.

You lost me at 3 car detached & 30x60 shop lol.that’s awesome congrats

 

[Joe]

I like those latches your using.I cannot find the aerocatch latches anywhere, all say sold out except in UK but wont ship to the US smh

 

[Douglas]

I believe I saw them on Jegs and Summitracing.com