I might try to tweak the doors in-out...depending on what is needed, as long as that doesn't affect my door seam or roof line too much. I'm thinking I'm going to have to do a creative cut and reposition for the clam corners so that I don't have to build up the fiberglass too much on the clam corner or the doors.
And so it begins...the AP build.
- Thread starter jlwdvm
- Start date
Lots of steps to get the front clam rocker latches mounted in the right spot, and then getting the latch mounted to the clam. Back and forth around the front of the car about a hundred times trying to get everything symmetrical…even though you can only see one side at a time! I mount the latch to the rocker first, then make sure the angle is correct prior to mounting the latch to the clam with fortified epoxy. Sanding starts tomorrow.
That’s looking so good! Good job!
The front clam clamps and pins function as they should, but the clam sides where they meet the door are rather flimsy. I know some original cars had bracing up the leg that tied in with the top of the clam. That’s on the agenda after I get the top corners where the clam meets the doors figured out.
….and we clamp. My car was shipped without inner bracing on the A-pillars, since it also originally came with a roll cage. Chris shipped me an inner roof panel and A-pillar pieces after I inquired about finishing the interior. I started by getting them fitted using a little heat and clamping. In case I need to sand the windshield surround, I filled the inner cavity with fortified epoxy. Probably overkill for the amount of sanding I might have to do, but might as well do it while the area is exposed. I suppose it might add a little strength and stiffness too.
I also checked proof of concept for the new rad support area. Definitely couldn’t do this with the original design. I almost wonder if RCR car front ends are strong enough to use as a jacking point, or tow hook mount.
….and we clamp. My car was shipped without inner bracing on the A-pillars, since it also originally came with a roll cage. Chris shipped me an inner roof panel and A-pillar pieces after I inquired about finishing the interior. I started by getting them fitted using a little heat and clamping. In case I need to sand the windshield surround, I filled the inner cavity with fortified epoxy. Probably overkill for the amount of sanding I might have to do, but might as well do it while the area is exposed. I suppose it might add a little strength and stiffness too.
I also checked proof of concept for the new rad support area. Definitely couldn’t do this with the original design. I almost wonder if RCR car front ends are strong enough to use as a jacking point, or tow hook mount.
Looking good Joe, keep up the good fight!
With the frame ride heights even side to side just inside the front wheel well, the front clam fender tops and wheel lip heights are off side to side. Driver is 28 1/2” to the top and wheel lip is 25 3/16”, while the passenger is 28” and 24 3/16”. Wondering if this is something I should chase down and get measurements as close to equal side to side, or if it is just compounding differences from the frame maybe being off, the front clam molds being off, warpage, things not being symmetrical from the start, etc. I should probably just quit measuring!
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I’ve learned my lesson on measuring too much…first off make sure your tire pressures are all good and the ride height from corner to corner. IMO after all the panels start looking like they fit together nicely, all that matter really is our obsession with symmetry LOL. I did learn on my Cobra replica that any cars prior to the 70s were notorious about asymmetrical sides especially on these hand built cars.
All that being said, I’m going to measure those same points on my project to see how they compare.
All that being said, I’m going to measure those same points on my project to see how they compare.
