Hi Friends,
Finishing my rear brake upgrade i am still concerned by a bleeding problem. Pedal remains spongy and very long (touch the firewall). Any of you experienced that in the past and solve it ? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I have the following setup:
-GTD pedal box upgraded with 5.1 pedal ratio
-2 Girling 0.625" MC with brake bias
- Front set: Wilwood Superlite 4 pots
- Rear set: AP Racing 4 pots
- Hydraulique hand brake with Girling 0.7 MC (correctly connected = input at the rear output near the lever)
I tried to bleed with the old 2 men method, no bubbles any more in the circuit but i suspect some in the MCs impossible to flush. Is it necessary to prefill them before car assembly?
Does the easy bleeder with pressure inside the brake circuit better than the old method ?
I must say that i am a bit lost, i checked each nipple, everything is brand new, so where is the trouble?
Tx in advance for your advice /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/flehan.gif
Cheers
Fred
Finishing my rear brake upgrade i am still concerned by a bleeding problem. Pedal remains spongy and very long (touch the firewall). Any of you experienced that in the past and solve it ? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I have the following setup:
-GTD pedal box upgraded with 5.1 pedal ratio
-2 Girling 0.625" MC with brake bias
- Front set: Wilwood Superlite 4 pots
- Rear set: AP Racing 4 pots
- Hydraulique hand brake with Girling 0.7 MC (correctly connected = input at the rear output near the lever)
I tried to bleed with the old 2 men method, no bubbles any more in the circuit but i suspect some in the MCs impossible to flush. Is it necessary to prefill them before car assembly?
Does the easy bleeder with pressure inside the brake circuit better than the old method ?
I must say that i am a bit lost, i checked each nipple, everything is brand new, so where is the trouble?
Tx in advance for your advice /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/flehan.gif
Cheers
Fred