Chris's AK GT40 Build

Hi Steve, There is an american car specialist near me (that's been going for decades) that also supply engines I was going to talk to them next year, because I'm going EFI I should be able to get a map that gets me under the emissions similar to how AK have got 3 selectable maps for there engine, road, race and MOT :) but yes I'll also keep talking to Jon at AK too.

I'm hoping to get the build done in 2 years, although I know I've made a pretty slow start next year I should be full steam ahead, so hopefully I can get the build IVA'd before the rules change. I'm over in Hampshire (UK obvs)
 
Hi Mark, as I'm from an Electronics/Electrical background I look at those lumpy mechanical things and think "yep that will be fine" :) In all serious though I will be careful with what I 3D print for the build, for this EWP I'll be mounting the mount onto rubber bushes to (hopefully) prevent breakages. I've designed it so that it is easily removed if need be, if it lasts 5 years then I'll just print it again, if it's shorter then I'll take your advice can get it billeted .. obvs this isn't a 500k build.

But even if this were to fail the EWP would keep pushing water though it would just rattle a bit :oops:
 
I've flipped the chassis and started working on the floor (in preparation for getting the heater pipe insulation delivery), as I'm trying to pack as much as possible in front of the front firewall (technically not a firewall in a rear engine car :)) I've decided to split the floor and make the front part detachable just to make access easier in future.

Also I've made a decision on the IVA, I'm going to do the absolute minimum possible to the car to get it through IVA (no air con/paint etc) and then finish it off
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Douglas

Lifetime Supporter
Makes me glad I am not on a time crunch. Keep it simple and it will be smooth. Modify a ton like me and slow progression.

It is neat to see how some things happen quickly and almost naturally and others stop everything as you stand there scratching your head asking, "why doesnt it work now?"
 
Makes me glad I am not on a time crunch. Keep it simple and it will be smooth. Modify a ton like me and slow progression.

It is neat to see how some things happen quickly and almost naturally and others stop everything as you stand there scratching your head asking, "why doesnt it work now?"
That's the best bit for me, I suspect building this will turn into completing a 4D jigsaw puzzle
 
Bit of on update, I've got the cooling pipes, brake/clutch lines, vacuum hose and reservoir return in place (with some fibreglass/silicone wrapped heat shields)
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and the lowered floor in place, I wasn't going to scotch brite the underside of the car ... but then decided I would after fitting and it looks a bit rubbish, but hey its under the car and once it's got a few miles on it hopefully it will be dirty enough not to notice
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also I've got the engine tray prepped, obviously this will cooling holes/vents cut into it but easier to form it's shape and fittings whilst the car is upside down
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Quick question for the AK guys ... how did you get panel 39 in place? obvs I could trim some of the panel to get it fitted, but just wondering if I'm missing a trick here
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Douglas

Lifetime Supporter
Quick question for the AK guys ... how did you get panel 39 in place? obvs I could trim some of the panel to get it fitted, but just wondering if I'm missing a trick here View attachment 151531
I had to modify mine a lot, not just because the inside edge changed from me widening the engine compartment but nothing besides the two slots for the trailing arm were correct.
 
Quick question for the AK guys ... how did you get panel 39 in place? obvs I could trim some of the panel to get it fitted, but just wondering if I'm missing a trick here View attachment 151531
mine did not fit on both sides.
so i split them in line with the rear support.
pictures below show the join. added a backing panel so i got a good butt joint. rivet on one side before assembly and the rivet on other after assembly on car.
 

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@Jerry41 yes i've got the same issue on the other side, looking again at the pictures from AK they have modified for fitting a coyote engine and I think the way they cut it down means that they would be able to bend the panel to get it in place
 
Quick question for the AK guys ... how did you get panel 39 in place? obvs I could trim some of the panel to get it fitted, but just wondering if I'm missing a trick here View attachment 151531
@156Chris I was struggling with this panel as well and considered trimming and/or splitting. If it is not too late, it is possible to fit without modifying, which I only found out yesterday. (I see your chassis is designed for a 302 like mine :) )

If you place the small cut-out at the top of the panel up under the roll bar then gently rotate the 90 degree return upwards, there is enough flex in the shallower bend to allow the panel to be pushed backwards into place. It is tight and will scratch the finish on the frame when taking in and out, but mine fits quite well.
 
@156Chris I was struggling with this panel as well and considered trimming and/or splitting. If it is not too late, it is possible to fit without modifying, which I only found out yesterday. (I see your chassis is designed for a 302 like mine :) )

If you place the small cut-out at the top of the panel up under the roll bar then gently rotate the 90 degree return upwards, there is enough flex in the shallower bend to allow the panel to be pushed backwards into place. It is tight and will scratch the finish on the frame when taking in and out, but mine fits quite well.
Hi Phil, I've already trimmed the left side, but I'll give you technique a go on the other side
 
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