Chuck's Jaguar D Type Build



Fit of the pedals is not an issue. I will fabricate individual support brackets for each pedal. The clutch pedal will fit nicely to the left of the steering column with enough room for a dead pedal. The brake will fit nicely to the right of the steering column, and there will be room for the gas pedal as well. All will clear the square steel tube frame member, similar to the set up on the original as seen in the photo posted previously.

I am attaching dimensions of the pedal arm. Not the pedal surface is off set 2" from the line connecting the MC connection and the mounting pivot point.

My plan is to locate the mounting bolt centered 5/8" to 3/4" below the undersurface of the top of the foot box. This will place the MC connection center point about 1 1/8" to 1 1/4"above the surface of the foot box, which will connect nicely to the master cylinder.

Hopefully this helps


The pedal I draw is exactly what I draw on the first study in where I was explaining how much this ratio will give for stroke ( say rod movment)
So cinematic will be what you have on the first pic I posted
So I guess have not help much with the files..... ( may be only to visualise better , hope that helped !! :rolleyes: )
Will look forward progress on your superb built !!!!



Thank you for the excellent CAD work. It really does help evaluate what we are planning to do. My take away is:

1. The concept is sound and should work with the existing pedals and the two MC selected for the brakes and clutch.

2. There may be an issue with locating the pivot point, fore and aft. I will make the brackets adjustable to address that issue.

3. The may be an issue with pedal length. If the need to be raised we will either modify or make new ones.

So now the work begins!

Really appreciate your input.
Chuck, quick side question for a moment. Since you've dropped and pulled the engine a few times, you might have a better idea of this. Is there any room in the frame to move the engine forward a few inches? Of course the mounts would have to be modified or fabricated, but as far as it interfering with hoses, the header tank, or anything that spins... is it a feasible option?


Fuel Tank, Part I

As noted in a previous post, the fuel tank supplied by RCR is a stock fuel cell manufactured by RCi. It stands 7 inches tall, 30 inches wide and 19 inches deep. It will not work with our build plan for several reasons. Fortunately, the same company will custom make a tank to the exact dimensions requested. Indeed this custom made tank and the additional fittings were priced similar to the retail price of the tank supplied by RCR.

Plans were drawn for the optimum size tank that would fill the space between the secondary frame / fuel tank supports, provide sufficient clearance between the clip above and the differential below, and enable the fuel filler to be properly located. When we ordered the tank from RCi we asked that it have no fittings; only a small vent hole needed for welding in the location where the gas tank hose barb would eventually be installed. The plan was to order the needed hardware and complete the tank our self.

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The fuel filler lid supplied by RCR has a two inch outside diameter inlet, so a matching tank inlet fitting was needed. Filler Neck Supply Co. was our source. The parts include:

1. 2” OD bolt on fuel – gas tank hose barb. #FN-2
2. Gasket for universal bolt on fuel filler. #GSK
3. Retainer ring. #3TR

Two more fittings were needed: a vent and a fuel pickup. Rather than weld bungs, a plate with threaded fittings was used. Filler Neck Supply Co. provided the following:

5. Bolt on gas tank plate for pick up tube and rollover valve. #5MPT
6. Gasket for pickup tube and rollover valve. #SG-N
7. Retainer ring for pick up tube and retainer ring plate. #SR-SS
8. Filler tube, ½”. #PT-16


Next is the layout and installation of the parts.


Fuel Tank, Part II

With the parts in hand, the filler neck and pick up cover plate were installed. Locating the gas tank hose barb on the fuel tank is critical. It needs to be directly below the filler cap accessed from under the tail fin door. It is important that one locate the filler laterally to line up with the center of the tail fin, so the dimensions on another D Type may vary slightly from those shown on the fuel tank plans. To confirm the location a 1/8” hole was drilled in the expected center point for the filler cap on the rear clip and then the fuel tank, setting below it in its proper location, was marked. This reference point was used to determine the location for drilling the hole for the filler neck on the fuel tank. The final opening in the clip under the fin for the filler cap may need to be moved, likely aft, to line up with the fuel tank since there is a limit on how far forward the fuel tank can be moved without interfering with the shock absorbers and springs.


Once the reference point for the gas tank hose barb was determined, the drill locations were marked, holes drilled and hardware temporarily installed. Quite a bit of time was spent vacuuming out the debris inside the tank from drilling the holes; which is time well spent.


Measurements revealed that there was 2 ¼” space between the top of the tank and the bottom of the fiberglass clip; not much space to work with. The filler cap will eventually set approximately level with the bottom of the door on the fin; about 2 ½” above the level of the clip. We will defer designing a suitable support until later when we tackle the fiberglass work. For now a hole was drilled directly in the fiberglass over the gas tank hose barb. The fact it was nearly perfectly centered below the hole made our day.


With the fuel tank fittings in place, final installation can proceed.
Chuck, Keep it up, this is terrific to watch your work! Enjoying it a lot!
Seems to me the arrow on the headlight on P1 indicates its a RHD light?


Chuck, Keep it up, this is terrific to watch your work! Enjoying it a lot!
Seems to me the arrow on the headlight on P1 indicates its a RHD light?
Good question. It is RHD, but not sure the significance of the arrow. That would be a good explanation.


Fuel Tank, Part III

The tank is held down to the fuel tank frame with a pair of stainless-steel straps, cut to length and bent. The lower bend is ¾” from the ends and bent sharply with a metal brake. The upper bends are gently rounded to follow the contour of the tank. McMaster Carr, 203 stainless, 1” x 36” x 0480” part 1421T71. The pair of 1” x 19” x 1/8” bars welded to the bottom of the fuel tank frame provide secure anchoring points.

Stainless 10/24 x 3 1/2” bolts are used. A washer and bolt were tightened on the bottom side of the ¾” bend to prevent the right angle bend from un-bending when the bottom nut was tightened. A Nyloc nut is used on the bottom to prevent it from loosening since this connection should not be overtightened.

Quarter inch thick felt, with adhesive on one side, was cut in two inch length and placed in the corners of the straps. Later after the frame is painted the same material will be placed on the end supports.


These welded fuel tanks inevitably have a bit of warp preventing them from setting perfectly flat. To accommodate the slight distortion washers can be placed between the fuel tank frame and the secondary supports. The thickness of the felt also helps compensate for the warpage.

This tank holds 18 gallons which is three gallons more than the RCR supplied tank. It is a good size for cruising and fits nicely in the space available. It clears the underside of the clip by about a half inch at the closest point and sets four inches above the differential, which is reassuring if we hit a really deep pothole. Finally, the lateral ends of this tank are supported directly by the secondary frame / fuel tank supports. (Note that the RCR supplied tank may not clear the underside of the clip with the supports we designed, since it sets an inch taller). Later the tank will be removed for painting of the supports.


Note of caution with stainless steel fasteners. The galling potential is high with stainless bolt and nut. And if that happens, then you don't need to worry about a nyloc nut!.
Actually Milk of Magnesia is a very effective anti-galling solution



Very good point. In that regard, the nyloc nuts are not very tight, so the friction / tension forces that contribute to galling will be reduced. I use a lot of Permatex anti seize and this would be a good place to use it just to be sure.

In reality, if it ever became an issue these small bolts could be easily cut off and replaced.

Thanks for that observation.
Stainless bolts need lubrication BEFORE use, or they gall and and bind - BTDT, got a lecture from supplier! Nickel type anti seizes can work.
Re the headlights, the arrows point to the side of the road that the low beam will point at so the driver can still see the road edge - see details here..
Driving on the right side of the road with the lights shown , low beam will throw to the left and not be popular with others, and leave the right road edge dark.


Stabilizer Link, Part I

The small block V8 in the GT40 is supported at approximately the center point so it balances nicely. The Jag on the other hand is supported at the front of the engine and the rear of the transmission. That is a lot of suspended weight giving rise to concern about the forces applied to the junction between the transmission and the bell housing, held together with just four bolts. A bit or research revealed that several models of six cylinder Jaguars used a connection at the rear of the engine, referred to as a stabilizer link connecting the top of the bell housing to the fire wall. (The D Type engine was supported at the base on all four corners; not an option on this reproduction).

Our bell housing is custom made by American Powertrain to mate the engine and a Tremec T5. Like the original, it has a flat surface with four threaded holes on the top for mounting the stabilizer link.


A lot of time was spent on line and we finally found a source for the parts needed for the stabilizer link. Here is the list of parts which we purchased from

1. Rear stabilizer link #C12890
2. Sway bar link bushing #C10940
3. Right top bell housing bracket #C14923
4. Left top bell housing bracket #C14922
5. Upper engine mount #C20217
6. Engine stabilizer top plate #C21201
7. Top rear stabilizer washer #C11607X
8. Bottom rear stabilizer washer #C11688X

Remaining, however, was the top support fastened to the fire wall, which needed to be fabricated. With the parts in hand, a simple bracket was designed, similar to what was used on an XKE.


Plans were drawn and the parts cut from 1/8” thick steel. The parts were then tack welded. Once the design was confirmed, final welding was completed. It will be painted silver to blend in with the aluminum fire wall. The back plate holes were drilled to 1/8” rather than the final 5/16” to facilitate match drilling when installed at a later date.

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