Chuck's Jaguar D Type Build


Alternator Update

Two years ago, four articles about the design and construction of a bracket to support the alternator were posted. When the fourth and last article on the topic was posted, there remained the issue of the alternator cooling fan. Two years later the issue was revisited.

A lot of searching led to a fan used on a Jaguar Daimler Limousine 11AC alternator found at the SNG Barratt site. Fan 11ac for Jaguar Daimler Limousine
It is priced under $40 dollars and is a perfect fit.

Washers were used as spacers to assure proper alignment of the pulley and fan, with a notch filed in each washer to clear the shaft key.

Although a perfect fit on the alternator, the fan led to another problem. The adjusting bracket interfered with the fan. We contemplated cutting about a quarter inch off the fan blades, but that did not seem like the best solution. Spacers were used instead.

Half inch outside and 3/8 inch inside diameter spacers, one a half inch long and two 3/8 inch long, were obtained from McMaster Carr.




Installation of the 11AC Alternator is now mechanically complete. Next is laying out the electricl components and the wiring to make the chassis operational.
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Wiring Plans

For every hour drilling and screwing I would estimate four hours are spent researching and planning. The electrical system has been particularly challenging.

The original D had a generator, which would be a nonstarter (no pun intended) for this project, but keeping it all Jaguar was still the goal. So, the plan is to duplicate the XKE system which used an alternator. More specifically a Lucas 11AC. In retrospect life would have been so much easier if an internally regulated one wire alternator had been used, but seems we like to do things the hard way.

This alternator is not internally regulated. In typical Jaguar fashion, not one, not two, but three external boxes are needed to make it work. Finally able to locate the Lucas 3AW warning light relay, Lucas 6RA alternator relay, and Lucas 4TR alternator regulator, we can move forward.

The aforementioned components were temporarily fastened to the Jag in the approximate location where they will eventually be permanently located. A temporary control panel with gauges, push button start switch, ignition light, and ignition “on” switch was mounted in the center.



The plan is to add the two fuse boxes and the RB310 generator voltage regulator as used on the original. The total of eight fuses will in fact be used, but the generator voltage regulator will not. A pattern was made to determine the size and placement of these parts. The mounting platform will be fabricated from aluminum later.


What about a wiring diagram? There are a number on the web, but this is the clearest we have found.


To make the wiring look original, cloth covered wire was ordered from Brillman
in multiple different color patterns to come close to duplicating the original wire patterns. It is 12 gauge and appears to be high quality.


Enough planning; now need to get to work.
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Randy V

Staff member
Lifetime Supporter
Very nice Chuck!
curious about the ignition light. In this wiring diagram, It would seem that this light would possibly offer the resistance required for the alternator exciter circuit. We used to use something on the order of 200-500 ohm 1/2 watt resistors here on Delco or Motorcraft alternators.. I think I used 470ohm on my last one.
I don’t recall the spec for the light-bulb to reduce that voltage. But if the light bulb burns out, you would not be feeding that exciter circuit (if that’s what it is here)…. Anyway - I’m probably fussing about nothing - just saw something curious….



Good point, although I don't think it will be an issue since my understanding is that the warning light is a separate circuit and indeed is not even used on some cars.

I am no expert on Jaguar charging systems.

Here is a narrative description of the circuit found on line:

It looks complicated, but it's really quite simple. First, note that the ignition switch is connected to the positive side of the battery. When the switch is turned on, power flows to two places: the 6RA alternator relay (located behind the left mudguard, behind the battery), and the 3AW relay (located under the heater air box) via the dashboard indicator light. Here's what each of these components does:

The 6RA is a simple relay which, when powered by the ignition switch, connects the alternator field coil and the the 4TR voltage regulator "+" terminal to the battery. The voltage regulator initially sees only the 12 volts coming from the battery. Since it's designed to keep the voltage at 14.3 volts, it immediately connects the F- lead of the alternator to ground in an attempt to increase power output. The field coil in the alternator is now magnetized, ready to produce power.

The 3AW relay operates the indicator light in the dashboard. Until the alternator is producing power, it's "WL" lead is grounded via it's "E" lead. This allows the dashboard lamp to light.

To review, at the moment the ignition switch is turned on, the alternator field coil and voltage regulator are powered via the 6RA relay. The voltage regulator immediately grounds the alternator "F-" lead, attempting to increase system voltage. Meanwhile, the 3AW relay completes the indicator light circuit.

Now start the engine. The rotor begins turning, inducing current in the stator coils. The alternator begins putting out current. Two things happen. First, the voltage at the AL lead on the alternator will rise to about 7.5 volts AC. This will cause the 3AW to disconnect the ground on the indicator light, which goes out. The second thing that will happen is that the voltage at the B+ lead of the alternator will begin to rise. With no intervention, it would rise indefinitely. But the voltage regulator will sense when the voltage rises to 14.3 Volts, and begin turning the rotor coil off and on to keep things under control.

That's it. The whole story.
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Randy V

Staff member
Lifetime Supporter
Ah, I see…. As somewhat typical of some other British as well as early Japanese cars I’ve worked on, the actual switching of the device happens through the toggling of the ground…. I’m sure all is fine - just my curiosity…


Miscellaneous Items

The goal is to complete the work needed to have a running chassis before starting the body work.

Fuel system. The Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator and gauge are now in place. It was moved slightly from the location suggested in the May 2020 post to assure it cleared the throttle linkage. Once proper setting of the fuel pressure is confirmed the gauge will likely be removed.



As has been noted before, if the part is made by Jaguar, check for fit. Both exhaust manifolds had excess material that prevented one nut from seating on each manifold. A Dremel solved the problem.


Lock washers and brass nuts were used. Note that the nuts have tapered corners on one side only.



Stabilizer link

In February 2020 the construction of a bracket for the stabilizer link mounted on the back of the engine was described. With the engine installed, we determined that the bracket needed to be lowered, which was a bit of a challenge with the engine in place. Nuts were added top and bottom to lock the threaded rings in place. The tension needs to be carefully set, with minimal tension pulling upwards; otherwise, damage to the firewall can occur. This bracket is not intended to carry the weight of the engine, but it helps.


Now back to wiring.
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Clutch fork travel

When the drive line was installed in September, 2022 we noted that material had to be filed away from the transmission to provide clearance for the clutch fork’s motion. Our post stated “The goal was to remove as little material as possible but enough to assure sufficient motion. We won’t know if we accomplished that goal until it is fully assembled and, in the car.

This is what it looked like after the material was removed before the transmission was attached to the bell housing.


I am please to report that the amount removed was spot on. With the clutch fully disengaged there is about 3/16 to 1/8 inch of clearance. Here are pictures, engaged and disengaged.



Sometimes we guess right!
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Pedal bracket revisited

One of the challenges of designing and building components is necessary adjustments and revisions to make them work as the project progresses. Starting in January 2020 the design and construction of the pedal supports for hanging rather than base mounted pedals was posted on this blog. This proved to be a challenging and time-consuming project due in large part to the tight space in which it was placed.

With the drive train finally installed the clutch slave cylinder was connected to the master cylinder and a temporary fluid reservoir was taped to the fire wall.

Pressing the pedal provided nice movement of the clutch fork visible through the access openings. But the movement was not enough to fully disengage the clutch.

The travel of the master cylinder push rod was only about a half inch and needed to be about an inch. The space for adding the extra travel was tight.

The needed travel was obtained by carefully shaving off a bit of metal on the pedal where it was striking the opening through the top of the foot. Fortunately, the geometry worked to our advantage since less than a quarter of an inch of material removed resulted in the additional half inch of travel of the push rod.

A Dremel with a sanding wheel did the job. But with the engine and steering shaft in place it was not possible to remove the pedal completely, so the grinding was done holding the pedal between the carburetors (which were covered with tape to keep the metal dust out).





When finished, the bottom of the brake and clutch pedals set about a half inch higher from the floor than a Porsche Cayman, which is our reference. (If the Jag had a carpeted and insulated floor the pedal positions would be essentially the same). Pushing the clutch pedal fully released the output shaft while in gear. The take up was smooth, gradually causing more resistance in the output shaft until the clutch was fully engaged. I am optimistic that it will work well when we finally start the engine.


Ignition coil

Because the coil is mounted in a horizontal position an epoxy filled unit was used, MSD PN82222.

Pictures of original D Types suggest that few holes were drilled in the forward frame to connect accessories. Rather brackets were wrapped around the frame. A one-inch-wide section of 20-gauge aluminum was used to make the bracket and folded to snugly follow the frame.

Friction tape, which was used long ago before plastic electrical tape became the standard, was wrapped around the frame before the bracket was set in place. Friction tape keeps stuff from moving around. A short piece was also placed between the bracket and the coil clamp to keep it from twisting.


Holes 5/8” in diameter were drilled through both of the header tank supports and grommets placed to provide convenient locations for wiring.


Cloth covered 12 gauge wire was used for the connections to the coil and the distributor since they will be visible. This wire is heavier than needed, but its appearance adds to the vintage look. The colors selected roughly correspond to the colors of the wire that comes with the distributor and the MSD ignition.


The coil is fully installed.
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I got the shaft.

With the engine and transmission in place, with the differential in place and trailing links set, we finally could move forward with the drive shaft measurements.

The output shaft for the Tremec transmission is a 1330 series. The flange yoke is a 1310 series, 4.5” flange diameter, 2” bolt spacing. Summit part number: SDH-2-2-939.


The four metric bolts needed to mount the flange yoke were also ordered. Summit part number: RNB-80992.

Once the flange yoke and output shaft were set in place, measurements were obtained from the center point of the joint connections. The output shaft was pulled one inch from its fully inserted position. The distance measured was 11 ¼”.


The output shaft and flange yoke were than taken to Shaftmasters, Inc, Lincoln Park, MI (about a ten hour drive from my home), where the drive shaft was made and the U joints assembled, ready for installation, literally overnight. (I just happened to be in the area for Ryan’s wedding. This shop is just a few minutes from his house.)

The Eastwood Brake Gray paint looks really good. Too bad it will not be seen.


It went in place nicely. The drivetrain is now complete.



Remaining to be done is adjusting the location of the transmission and differential to assure proper alignment of the drive shaft.


Radiator and Header Tank, Part I

Inspired by Doug’s decision to go with a proper radiator and header tank, I order the pair from Pro Alloy a few months ago when the British pound tanked. They arrived in a timely fashion and remained in the box until the airplane projects reached a stopping point.

Opting for the satin finish option, they are quality pieces. Although the header tank size is within spitting distance of the mock up I made long ago and the radiator is nearly the same height as the RCR version, substantial adjustments will be needed to complete the installation.





It will take a bit to work out the details and make the modifications. Stay tuned.


Radiator and Header Tank Part II

Replacing the RCR radiator with the original style radiator and header tank gives rise to several issues:

1. The original radiator is significantly wider than the RCR version and effectively takes up the full space between the front frames requiring that the support brackets on the subframe be relocated. In addition the radiator bracket on the driver side is ¾” lower than the one on the right.

2. The RCR radiator height will not work with the original design radiator and header tank requiring that the radiator be lowered approximately three inches.

3. The RCR brackets for the header tank are about four inches forward of the brace on the original header tank.

With the Jag at ride height (six inches from the bottom of the frame to the floor) and the red ride blocks in place, measurements were obtained.

The RCR radiator which came with my Jag sat 30 ½ inches from its top to floor. This is the maximum safe height to assure clearance with the bottom side of the clip. Using this measurement and looking at photos of the original D Tyupe as a reference, the location of the header tank was determined. One inch could be added to the RCR brackets to get it to a height that will clear the front clip.


Once the maximum permissible height of the expansion tank was determined, the height of the radiator could be set. It needed to be lowered three inches to match the location of the coolant tubes on the header tank, which was very close to the height we had previously lowered the RCR radiator when the revised front subframe as described in posts in December 2020 was built.


With the measurements determined, construction could begin.

The support brackets which had been welded on the subframe for the RCR radiator had to be removed from the frame using a Milwaukee cordless grinder. (That is an awesome tool; so much easier to use than a bulky corded version).


The front subframe was set back in place and the radiator temporarily supported on blocks so that dimensions for the new support brackets could be determined. (foam core board was placed on the front and back of the radiator to protect the fins).


The header tank was temporarily set in place to assure alignment with the radiator.


With the initial planning done modifications to the radiator will be next.


Radiator and Header Tank, Part III

Taking a grinder to the radiator was a bit scary, but necessary. The bracket on the driver’s side needed to be trimmed back a quarter inch since it sets at a different height than the bracket on the passenger side and therefore interfered with the subframe.


Silicone grommets were obtained from McMaster Carr, part number 1061T51, to cushion the radiator. Quarter inch AN (aircraft) bolts held with castle nuts and cotter pin (AN4-10) hold the radiator in place. By using this arrangement, the grommet is not crushed permitting it to absorb vibrations minimizing the risk of damage to the radiator, yet the castle nut and washer holds it securely in place.


The upper brackets use a clevis rod end purchased from McMaster Carr, part number 1583K22. A small grommet made for a nice fit. Flat one-inch-wide brackets were made to connect the threaded quarter inch rod to the chassis. They were held to the chassis with two quarter inch bolts each placed in holes that were drilled and tapped.



The lower supports were fabricated welded on the front sub frame. Next project are the supports for the header tank.



The goal is to get the chassis running, so a means of shifting is needed. An extra rod we threaded for the knob a while back was tack welded to a 1” metal plate and attached to the transmission shifter stub. This is strictly temporary but will help us determine the best position and length so a beefier final version can be made later.


A cardboard pattern for the tunnel cover helps put the position of the shifter into perspective.


Another step closer to a drivable chassis!


A Hole in One

The Tremec transmission drain plug is directly over a section of aluminum on the bottom of the tub. Pull that plug and there will be a real mess.

Accordingly, a 2” hole was drilled directly under the plug. This will provide another means of access to the plug and a better means of draining the fluid. It would have been nice if this had crossed my mind before the drive train was set in place for the third and (hopefully) final time.

These pictures were taken through the access openings cut in the tub long ago. Glad they are there!



Radiator and Header Tank, Part IV

The header tank was next, now that the radiator is firmly secured. One-inch square pipe provided the optimum height. Two sections four inches long were used. Two quarter inch bolts were used to connect them to the existing supports. The sides of the supports were trimmed flush with the square tubes. A square section of metal was tack welded on the forward end to clean up the appearance. The aft end was trimmed with a curved angle to provide easier access to the nut holding the tank in place. In addition, a gusset was made and tack welded in place which is purely cosmetic.



The braces were sprayed with Eastwood Aluma Blast (which is a good match for the powder coated frame) and set in place.

A rubber washer was added below the tank bracket. Quarter inch bolts with castle nuts and cotter pins hold it in place with minimal tension. (AN4-5)


Next, hoses to connect these pieces need to be sorted and installed.


The Thermostat

The thermostat cover was modified by our builder, Bill Terry, removing the small hose nipple, tapping the hole, and placing a plug. To permit some flow and bleed out any air bubbles a small hole was drilled in the thermostat which sets at the top when in place.

A 180 degree stock thermostat was used.