Davidmgbv8
Supporter
Nice job, is is correct to assume that there are tubes that travel from the top where the pipes join that then travel to the bottom of the reservoir to pick up the cooler fluid?
Chuck's Jaguar D Type Build
- Thread starter CESLAW
- Start date
Actually the tubes will exit on the bottom so fluid will flow down hill to the master cylinders; a deviation from the original which used a hydraulic pump absent in current brake systems.
Brake Reservoir, Part II
Two straight and one 90 degree fittings were used to obtain the best hose alignment. Loctite 567 was used to seal the threads and permitted to set up for 24 hours before brake fluid was added. Loctite 567 is an excellent thread sealant which has adhesive properties and has become the go – to product on the airplane project as well.
The tank was hooked up to the master cylinders using EPDM rubber hose from McMaster-Carr. Fuel line cannot be used with brake fluid. We opted not to use the bright red hose that comes with the Wilwood master cylinders for appearance’s sake.
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Once the lines were hooked up the brakes were bled, which turned out to be an all-day job due to a defect in the fittings that connected the brake lines to the brake hoses. They all had to be replaced.
The last detail was adding the pig tail vent tube.
This was the last project completed before the first drive. Indeed, if one looks closely at the first drive picture, the tank is visible.
Two straight and one 90 degree fittings were used to obtain the best hose alignment. Loctite 567 was used to seal the threads and permitted to set up for 24 hours before brake fluid was added. Loctite 567 is an excellent thread sealant which has adhesive properties and has become the go – to product on the airplane project as well.
The tank was hooked up to the master cylinders using EPDM rubber hose from McMaster-Carr. Fuel line cannot be used with brake fluid. We opted not to use the bright red hose that comes with the Wilwood master cylinders for appearance’s sake.
Once the lines were hooked up the brakes were bled, which turned out to be an all-day job due to a defect in the fittings that connected the brake lines to the brake hoses. They all had to be replaced.
The last detail was adding the pig tail vent tube.
This was the last project completed before the first drive. Indeed, if one looks closely at the first drive picture, the tank is visible.
Chris Kouba
Supporter
That tank is fabulous. Tip of the hat to Ryan on his torch work!
Davidmgbv8
Supporter
Top job
Firewall Gaps, Part I
There is a significant gap between the top of the tub front and rear firewalls and the inside of the fiberglass body. We wanted to close the gap to not only seal it but also to provide support for the body.
Patterns were made. This involved making a horizontal reference line and then measuring to the top of the aluminum at three-inch intervals. Measurements were taken from the horizontal reference line to the fiberglass. Those dimensions were then used to determine the approximate dimensions of the pattern. Once a preliminary pattern was made, a second, final version was prepared from foam core board. The goal was to end up with a small gap between the pattern and the fiberglass over the entire length which will be sealed with weatherstripping.
Preparing the patterns was a time-consuming but necessary job in order to properly fit the aluminum panels.
There is a significant gap between the top of the tub front and rear firewalls and the inside of the fiberglass body. We wanted to close the gap to not only seal it but also to provide support for the body.
Patterns were made. This involved making a horizontal reference line and then measuring to the top of the aluminum at three-inch intervals. Measurements were taken from the horizontal reference line to the fiberglass. Those dimensions were then used to determine the approximate dimensions of the pattern. Once a preliminary pattern was made, a second, final version was prepared from foam core board. The goal was to end up with a small gap between the pattern and the fiberglass over the entire length which will be sealed with weatherstripping.
Preparing the patterns was a time-consuming but necessary job in order to properly fit the aluminum panels.
Firewall Gaps, Part II
Two 6061 aluminum sections, 12” x 36”, .050 thick, were ordered from McMaster. (Wow, aluminum is really getting expensive!). The ally was cut to match the patterns with the expectation that some trimming would be needed. Careful layout permitted one front and one rear to be cut from a single sheet of aluminum.
To seal the joint with the fiberglass, weather stripping was ordered from McMaster Carr that fits over the 16 gauge, 1/16” thick aluminum and has a 3/8” bulb. Part # 1120A112. I prefer not to use an adhesive in this application. First, an adhesive would make it impossible to remove the fiberglass body. Second, adhesive will eventually cause an ‘imprint’ to appear on the body along the glue line. Finally, the chances of the fiberglass stress fractures is less since there can be some expansion and contraction of dissimilar materials.
With the weather stripping on the aluminum, the sections were fitted and a bit of trimming accomplished to assure a snug fit. The assembly was then clecoed temporarily in place. Later components will be added to the fire wall which will hold the panels firmly in place. Rivets will also be added to mimic the original.
The small sections where weather stripping was not applied will be sealed later with rope caulk.
Two 6061 aluminum sections, 12” x 36”, .050 thick, were ordered from McMaster. (Wow, aluminum is really getting expensive!). The ally was cut to match the patterns with the expectation that some trimming would be needed. Careful layout permitted one front and one rear to be cut from a single sheet of aluminum.
To seal the joint with the fiberglass, weather stripping was ordered from McMaster Carr that fits over the 16 gauge, 1/16” thick aluminum and has a 3/8” bulb. Part # 1120A112. I prefer not to use an adhesive in this application. First, an adhesive would make it impossible to remove the fiberglass body. Second, adhesive will eventually cause an ‘imprint’ to appear on the body along the glue line. Finally, the chances of the fiberglass stress fractures is less since there can be some expansion and contraction of dissimilar materials.
With the weather stripping on the aluminum, the sections were fitted and a bit of trimming accomplished to assure a snug fit. The assembly was then clecoed temporarily in place. Later components will be added to the fire wall which will hold the panels firmly in place. Rivets will also be added to mimic the original.
The small sections where weather stripping was not applied will be sealed later with rope caulk.
Instrument Panel, Part I
Hours were spent studying photographs of the original instrument panels. Variations were noted since many owners made modifications over the years. Here is a prototype that we are using as a guide.
Several patterns were prepared before we were satisfied. A form was cut from ¾” high density fiberboard based on the pattern. The top edge was routed with a 3/8” radius. The bottom was routed with a 1/8” radius. The 16 gauge (.050) aluminum was cut and securely fastened to the form so that it could be shaped.
This was our first experience shaping aluminum. The 16 gauge aluminum proved to be rather stout and it took a lot of hammer blows to get it to bend. The bottom three quarter inch lip was straightforward, but the top bend was a challenge because of the compound curve. A metal shrinker tool was used to remove the wrinkles.
The original D Type panel had a slight curve centered at the steering column. Using the stretcher tool, the top and bottom lips were carefully ‘stretched’ to introduce this bend. The panel on the left side where the switches are located had a slight bend to make it perpendicular to the centerline. A metal brake was used to add that slight angle.
The stretcher / shrinker tool left behind lots of marks. These were laboriously sanded out with 80 grit, then progressing to 180 and finally 320 grit paper.
A two inch hole saw hole saw was used for the two small gauges and a sabre saw was used to cut the 4 ¾” holes for the tach and speedo.
Of course, we had to temporarily set the gauges in place just to see how it would look.
Hours were spent studying photographs of the original instrument panels. Variations were noted since many owners made modifications over the years. Here is a prototype that we are using as a guide.
Several patterns were prepared before we were satisfied. A form was cut from ¾” high density fiberboard based on the pattern. The top edge was routed with a 3/8” radius. The bottom was routed with a 1/8” radius. The 16 gauge (.050) aluminum was cut and securely fastened to the form so that it could be shaped.
This was our first experience shaping aluminum. The 16 gauge aluminum proved to be rather stout and it took a lot of hammer blows to get it to bend. The bottom three quarter inch lip was straightforward, but the top bend was a challenge because of the compound curve. A metal shrinker tool was used to remove the wrinkles.
The original D Type panel had a slight curve centered at the steering column. Using the stretcher tool, the top and bottom lips were carefully ‘stretched’ to introduce this bend. The panel on the left side where the switches are located had a slight bend to make it perpendicular to the centerline. A metal brake was used to add that slight angle.
The stretcher / shrinker tool left behind lots of marks. These were laboriously sanded out with 80 grit, then progressing to 180 and finally 320 grit paper.
A two inch hole saw hole saw was used for the two small gauges and a sabre saw was used to cut the 4 ¾” holes for the tach and speedo.
Of course, we had to temporarily set the gauges in place just to see how it would look.
Instrument Panel Glove box
The original had a small opening on the far-right side; sort of like a mini glove box without a door. We wanted to duplicate this detail. Here is a picture of a an original.
Our version was made from black posterboard. Foam core was cut to match both the inside and outside to tightly hold the posterboard in the intended shape. Next the outside surfaces were covered with a couple of layers of fiberglass. The inside surface was sprayed with clear satin polyurethane, since we wanted to preserve the texture of the black posterboard. The result was a solid, rigid structure with a good finish texture.
An advantage of this technique for fabricating parts is the ability to get a smooth exposed surface and a perfect fit.
The glove box will be secured later with a bit of epoxy adhesive. Rivets to match the look of the original are temporarily holding it in place.
Can someone tell me what this ‘glove box’ was used for 70 years ago? Going around the curves at Lemans, nothing would remain there for long.
The original had a small opening on the far-right side; sort of like a mini glove box without a door. We wanted to duplicate this detail. Here is a picture of a an original.
Our version was made from black posterboard. Foam core was cut to match both the inside and outside to tightly hold the posterboard in the intended shape. Next the outside surfaces were covered with a couple of layers of fiberglass. The inside surface was sprayed with clear satin polyurethane, since we wanted to preserve the texture of the black posterboard. The result was a solid, rigid structure with a good finish texture.
An advantage of this technique for fabricating parts is the ability to get a smooth exposed surface and a perfect fit.
The glove box will be secured later with a bit of epoxy adhesive. Rivets to match the look of the original are temporarily holding it in place.
Can someone tell me what this ‘glove box’ was used for 70 years ago? Going around the curves at Lemans, nothing would remain there for long.
Chris Kouba
Supporter
Did Hawthorne smoke? Probably held the beer and cigarettes.
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
I would guess driving gloves and when racing perhaps a chamois to wipe dirt off the drivers goggles
Ian
Ian
Racing gloves of the day were leather as I recall. A pair of well worn buckskin gloves would work!
Neil
Supporter
Unfiltered Lucky Strike would be an appropriate cigarette pack.
as speaking of Lemans you need French Cigarettes either ''Gauloises'' or ''Gitanes'' and a bottle of ''Ricard''Unfiltered Lucky Strike would be an appropriate cigarette pack.
Hawthorne sounds like a Capstan Full Strength type of man
While recreating a Jaguar race car, you could create a replica cigarette pack (just the box, not the content) on taste you're own ....
Annealing aluminium makes it way easier to work with.
Bead rolling, hammer forming, shrinking stretching.
If you do multiple forms out of one piece you have to re- anneal it several times but it makes it easier and quicker to get there.
I followed a weekend seminar with Ron Covell when he was in the Netherlands.
I hammer formed the half an orange bowl form and had to re-anneal it several times to prevent the 0.04in alloy to crack.
These are my headlight & tail light covers. The half an orange clears my headlamp H4 bulb holder.
Al the other forms are made using a bead roller.
Bead rolling, hammer forming, shrinking stretching.
If you do multiple forms out of one piece you have to re- anneal it several times but it makes it easier and quicker to get there.
I followed a weekend seminar with Ron Covell when he was in the Netherlands.
I hammer formed the half an orange bowl form and had to re-anneal it several times to prevent the 0.04in alloy to crack.
These are my headlight & tail light covers. The half an orange clears my headlamp H4 bulb holder.
Al the other forms are made using a bead roller.
