Coyote Fuel System

[Steve Borneman]

So I think I’ve settled on this system. The Fitech 40015 to an in-line filter to the fuel rail to a fuel regulator then back to the tank like the attached diagram.

I’m going to use a small 6an line to connect the two sinks to level the fuel.

All agree?

 

[Mark Stackler]

That will work.

Mark

 

[Ian Anderson]

For safety, on a fuel tank the outlet should be on the top of the tank, requiring the vacuum from a pump to cause fuel to flow.

So you want to run a cross over line plumbed into the bottom of each tank? Fair enough, but should anything happen to that cross over line both tanks will empty uncontrollably.

Snag it on some road debris and you could have the best part of 100 litres of fuel pouring out onto the road!

Use two low pressure pumps to feed a pollack valve to the swirl tank.

Or if you do not like the pollack valve use two solenoids and two non return valves.

Ian

 

[Ian Anderson]

Oh and without baffles in your tanks in a GT40 at half tank under braking your rear outlets will run dry,
And if you only use a high pressure pump running it dry for a few seconds will wreck it!

Ian

 

[Steve Borneman]

Oh and without baffles in your tanks in a GT40 at half tank under braking your rear outlets will run dry,
And if you only use a high pressure pump running it dry for a few seconds will wreck it!

Ian

I guess a swirl tank is necessary with tanks without baffles.

Good point.

Back to the drawing board I go...

 

[Ian Anderson]

In the originals, when they connected the tanks they did them midway along the tanks and the line crossed through the cockpit to the other side / tank. So the cross over pipe ran under the drivers legs. Not a good safety idea.

So two or three fuel pump system?


I would suggest.
Start with a swirl tank, either mount an EFI pump in that to feed the engine or have an in line EFI on the lowest outlet, through fuel filter to fuel rail, at other end of rail fuel pressure regulator and back to that swirl tank. This feed goes back to the feed about 2/3 up the tank.
So that would allow your engine to run continually bit has a limited fuel volume.

So now you need to keep that swirl tank full. Three pump system

So from right hand tank outlet to filter to low pressure / carburettor fuel pump through non return valve, to T piece connector to swirl pot , this is the connection about 1/2 way up the tank. And the return from the top connector on the swirl tank back to a second T piece to solenoid valve that opens the flow when fuel pump is turned on and the return to the right hand tank.

And from left hand tank the same thing, tank tofilter to pump to T piece. Return T piece to solenoid to return left hand tank.

Select either right or left tank and that low pressure pump runs, to fill swirl tank, the High Pressure EFI runs continuously when commanded by the computer system, (generally a three second run on ignition turn on topressurise the system, and will run so long as the engine is turning. Stall the engine and the EFI pump will stop)



Two pump systen
Requires EFI pump for engine running

Tank to solenoid valve to T connector, to fuel filter, fuel pump to swirl pot, return from swirl through the second T to a second solenoid to return to tank. Both solenoids are open when right tank selected and closed when off or left tank selected.
And the same left tank solenoid to the T connector, and return from T connector to solenoid to tank.

Both fuel bumps can be controlled through relays from the EFI computer to run continuously as mentioned above.


If you don’t like the solenoids you can replace them with a Pollack valve.

Ian

 

[Ian Anderson]

Diagram for two pump system

Sorry drawn in excel and cannot show pipes crossing over not connected, hence green additions

 

[Steve Borneman]

Ian,

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU.

I think this is a great plan. I agree that without baffles or traps in the tanks, a swirl tank is absolutely necessary.

A few questions, I’m not familiar with the solenoids, what do they do and are they electric or mechanical? What solenoids do you recommend? Also, the fuel lines just go into the tanks? There are no filters at the pick up end of the fuel line? What’s a good size swirl tank, 2L?

And again, I can’t thank you enough. This is the plan I’m going to use for my build. I’m sure I’ll have more questions, but I like this a lot.

Steve

 

[Mark Stackler]

The aeromotive unit has a built in baffle. I still may try it that way

Mark

 

[Ian Anderson]

Hi Steve
The solenoids are electronic “taps”, when power is connected they open to allow flow, remove the power and it stops the flow

Jaguar has used them for ages
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-...769890?hash=item283db209a2:g:t9IAAOSwYxBaKpmd

There are off course lots of other manufacturers that make similar units that cost a lot less, and I have no knowledge as to how good they are!

The good safety aspect of the system shown is that once the ignition is turned off the fuel system is sealed completely so no chance of spills

And yes there is a filter immediately before the low pressure pump. Tank, solenoid T piece FILTER pump

Ian

 

[Ian Anderson]

Instead of the solenoids you could use a Pollack valve
https://www.oilybits.com/pollak-6-port-fuel-selector-valve-with-switch.html

tankto pollack to filter and LP pump to swirl
Return from swirl to pollack and back to tank

Select other tank and it draws from other tank

Downside it is plastic so no aero hose connectors, old school hose and hose clamps!

Will work ok and will last about 4 years, so a replaceable part so make sure it is accessible.

Car builder solutions do a swirl pot for in line pumps
https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/pressed-aluminium-fuel-swirl-pot-surge-tank

I believe radium are good but hellishly expensive

http://www.radiumauto.com/Universal-Fuel-Surge-Tanks-C54.aspx

Ian

 

[Steve Borneman]

Thanks Ian,

Two more quick questions, is there some sort of switch to select one tank over the other or do the solenoids control the flow? And secondly, what type of low pressure pump are you suggesting?

Again, I can’t thank you enough

Steve

 

[Ian Anderson]

A double pole double throw toggle switch will work for the changeover.will allow only 1 tank fuel gauge and swap that over with the tank change over.
Left for left tank and right for right tank.
The pollack valve shown comes with the correct switch.

Low pressure pump the Carter pumps get a good write up
https://roadcraftuk.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=41_122&product_id=348

Also Holley do very good pumps.
https://www.holley.com/products/fue...carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-815-1IAN

 

[Ian Anderson]

You could look at fitting Hydramat into your tanks, which could stop an EFI pump sucking air

Seems like amazing stuff

Ian

 

[Steve Borneman]

You could look at fitting Hydramat into your tanks, which could stop an EFI pump sucking air

Seems like amazing stuff

Ian

WOW, looks like this would eliminate the need for a swirl tank.

 

[Steve Borneman]

The hydramat is very expensive for what it is...

 

[Mark Stackler]

The Holley fuel pump kit comes with it.

Mark

 

[Steve Borneman]

I’m back to being confused. I reached out to Chris at Active Power where I bought the chassis and gas tanks from and he said the the best way is to use a single in tank pump like the fitech 40015 that I’ve shown and an equalizer line between the pumps.

That’s what he’s used with his cars with a Coyote engine.

My head hurts...

 

[Ian Anderson]

Steve
Lots of people and lots of opinions.
I can confirm my car has no baffles
It has a smaller engine and fuel requirement to yours so I use a red top Facet pump, that goes cluck cluck cluck. When pumping fuel.
At half tank when slowing for lights etc that same pump goes crazy as it hammers away sucking air until the fuel sloshes back.

I could not run an EFI pump for long without it trashing itself and constantly drawing air into the system.

Ian

 

[Mark Stackler]

A hydromat that covers the entire bottom of the fuel cell would be perfect wonder how much they would want to make one

Mark