Doug’s RCR Jaguar D Type Build.

[Doug M]

Chuck, good question. I live in West Virginia, and I’m sure things are a bit more relaxed than in other states. The certificate of origin from RCR ( or whatever it’s called- I’m not home to look at it) is a 1955, which by WV rules, means it’ll be grandfathered in like an antique even though it’s a ‘new’ car.

It does add another complication, but actually I spent more time researching and web searching for ideas and parts than I did installing it.

It was a great deal easier, too, since I decided to use bucket seats.

 

[Neil]

Chuck, good question. I live in West Virginia, and I’m sure things are a bit more relaxed than in other states. The certificate of origin from RCR ( or whatever it’s called- I’m not home to look at it) is a 1955, which by WV rules, means it’ll be grandfathered in like an antique even though it’s a ‘new’ car.

It does add another complication, but actually I spent more time researching and web searching for ideas and parts than I did installing it.

It was a great deal easier, too, since I decided to use bucket seats.

Where in WV, Doug?

 

[Doug M]

I haven’t posted in a long time as I’ve been busy with life stuff. But I’ve been making some progress on my build, and I’ve recently solved the door hinge problem that’s been plaguing me since last summer.

The RCR supplied door hinges were poorly assembled, especially the right side driver door. Not much was square and the holes didn’t line up exactly. Tried to make the hinges work, and they sorta did, but there was a good one inch of wobble and sag when opening and closing the door.

RCR’s suggestion to ream the bolt hole one size bigger didn’t help. After that, many calls and emails for an exchange went unanswered. I even made an offer to pay for a new set of hinges and got no response.

Explored a different hinge design, tried making my own… all fruitless endeavors.

Finally had a brainstorm and drew out a poster board template and took it to my local metal place. Solution was adding a 90 degree top part of the hinge to steady it out. 1/4 aluminum was probably overkill, but I don’t want to have to do this again in a few years with a completely built car.

So with some creative grinding for a good fit and experimenting with various washer thicknesses, it’s all back together and tracks perfectly with only a millimeter or two of wobble (which I can definitely live with).

So for those who are building this kit and have yet to get this far, feel free to use this idea if you like. I’m very happy with it.