Dwight's RCR GT 40

Dwight

Silver Supporter
#1
I'm making a lot of changes to my 40, so this is not a build log but more of a rebuild log.

I have a lot of questions that I need to ask and I think this would be the best place to ask.

I'm adding a Gurney bubble during the repaint.

I read somewhere that someone used a foam when they installed a Gurney bubble.
I found a spray foam that Demand Product (PS75) sells, but I not sure if it's the correct foam for my use.
How much and what type do I need?

Thanks Dwight
 

Chuck

Silver Supporter
#2
Foam for the Guerny bubble. That is a new one on me.

Consider hex head nuts. They look like rivets and would be removable. The fiberglass pattern on the reverse side looks just fine once painted black. Anyway you will never notice the back side once it is installed.

JB Weld is easy to use and sets up slowly and holds well. Epoxy would also work if you want to permanently bond it.

If originality is the goal, the ridge around the edge should be left as is. (cleaned up of course). I would lean towards to painting it separately and the attaching it to preserve the crisp edge.

Can't help you with the foam
 

Dwight

Silver Supporter
#3
Thanks Chuck
I may have the painter mold the bubble into the top and not use screws. Maybe??


Dwight


P.S. your manual is a tremendous help, thanks again.
 

Dwight

Silver Supporter
#4
Chuck I was looking in your book and saw a picture of the bubble you installed.

How much space is between the top of the door and the liner? If I read correctly you used epoxy to bond the top and liner together. This is the area I thought I would have to use the foam. I will use the epoxy.

Thanks
Dwight
 

Chuck

Silver Supporter
#8
Chuck I was looking in your book and saw a picture of the bubble you installed.

How much space is between the top of the door and the liner? If I read correctly you used epoxy to bond the top and liner together. This is the area I thought I would have to use the foam. I will use the epoxy.

Thanks
Dwight
Dwight: Sorry for the delay in responding. Just had a chance to look at the inside of the roof of the GT, not something I notice much.

The gap between the liner and the top of the door was not significant, I would guess around an 1/8 or 3/16. (Memory fades with time). As noted in the book, gently securing the bubble with a couple of screws draws the two together reducing the gap further. Closing the gap with filler and sanding smooth the edge completes the process.

The finished thickness from the roof top to bottom of liner is around 1/4 all the way around. It really looks good. You won't have any problems.

Chuck
 
#10
Dwight
We only got your cheque on Thursday...your parts shipped same day...

UPS shows you will receive them on Tuesday.....the tracking number is in your email.
 
Last edited:

Chuck

Silver Supporter
#11
Thanks Chuck
I have not received my bubble. Is it one piece or two pieces unit?

Dwight
It is one piece. Outer perimeter will likely need to be trimmed to make it symmetrical all the way around. Inside has a typical fiberglass print pattern but once painted black it looks just fine. You won't notice it on the inside once installed.
 

Dwight

Silver Supporter
#12
Thanks Chuck

Fran I just (five minutes ago) received UPS notice the parts will be delivered Tuesday. Thanks
I should finish rewiring the car this week and should be able to remove the windshield next week and install the bubble & demist grill.

Dwight
 

Dwight

Silver Supporter
#13
just looking over some of my note and found something you guys can help with.

The fuel tank sending units, are they a three wire or two hook up. I have a shielded 2 conductor cable (black & white) to the dash but there is a blue wire terminated on the sending units. When I traced it out I found it butt splice to another blue wire (the other unit) and then cut, dead end. Do I need a third wire?

Dwight
 

Chuck

Silver Supporter
#14
just looking over some of my note and found something you guys can help with.

The fuel tank sending units, are they a three wire or two hook up. I have a shielded 2 conductor cable (black & white) to the dash but there is a blue wire terminated on the sending units. When I traced it out I found it butt splice to another blue wire (the other unit) and then cut, dead end. Do I need a third wire?

Dwight
Couple of pictures attached.

View of the opening for the bubble after inner liner glued to outside panel. You can see the seam and how tight it comes together. Hope this helps.

The sending unit has one wire. The second would be the ground. Each sending unit wire would go the the separate gauges. It has been five years since I wired it, but my recollection is that a short wire was connected from the sending unit cover plate to a chassis ground to assure a good ground connection and then the fuel gauge ground was joined to the common ground buss behind the dash. In other words only one wire per sending unit to the dash. No need to shield the sending uint wire since it is not RF sensitive.

Compare yours to the picture attached. If you have a different type of sending unit the wiring may be different.
 

Attachments

Dwight

Silver Supporter
#15
Fran I received the demister grill and Gurney bubble today. Thanks for the E-Z Wiring manual.



Thanks CESLAW

I do not know what units I have but here is a picture of one of them. The terminal post are labeled send, neg, post,
the blue wire was ran into the frame "box" behind the driver seat and abandon. I have not traced the two conductor under the dash to see how it is hooked up.


Dwight

 

Chuck

Silver Supporter
#16
Definitely different than mine. Do you have the Classic gauges? Could those have inductive pickups rather than mechanical floats, hence the need for a power source?
 

Dwight

Silver Supporter
#20
I did a search and found a diagram. Small picture and I'm wearing bifocals, but I think the pos post on the sending unit is fed from a hot circuit behind the ignition switch. That wire also feeds the dash gauge (meter).
The neg is ground and the send post is connected to the gauge (meter) I think the "S" terminal.
It may be a few days before I can remove the gauge and check it.

Thanks dlindemann
this is the information I need.
Dwight
 
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