Electric Water Pump Thoughts

[Brett James-McCall]

Having a look around a lot of people seem to be going for the Davies Craig unit, or some heavy Meziere/CSR unit.

Howver, the Davies Craig runs either 80/110 lpm depending on the unit.

Do people think running a Meziere 136 at 20 gpm would be suffiecient, as by calculations it would work out to around 90 lpm. Thoughts?

Brett

 

[Bill D]

I ran one in a 645 HP BBF in a Cobra. I never had a problem, even on hot summer days in Southern california or in stop-and-go traffic.

The advantage comes in that they run full capacity even when the engine is at idle. This carries more heat away from the engine, When you're cruising, air flows through the radiator cooling the engine.

Bill D

 

[Ron McCall]

I am runnig the Meziere WP337 http://www.meziere.com/2005_catalog/16.pdf

which flows 55gpm. The tech guys there say it should work great. I hope to know soon!

 

[Brett James-McCall]

Ron,
How are you running your heater hoses then? My issue is

For info, I 'used' to have a 336, but managed to buy a 24 volt one off eBay. Sent it back to Meziere to get swapped out for a 12 volt motor - they never received it... By then I had made some bosses to go on the timing cover etc and everything, but now have given up.

The one thing that always nagged me was sorting out the heater hose flow on the GTD. Any thoughts how you are doing it would be appreciated.

Brett

 

[Bill Musarra]

Moroso also makes a good pump that can be either mounted in place of the stock pump or can be mounted remotely. Don't have the figures handy on flow. Was going to mount on the front of my engine, but because I moved the engine forward, it stuck too far into the cabin, so I mounted it remotely beside the engine.

Bill

 

[Steve Briscoe]

I can't add much to what the other guys are saying other than a little experience. If you're running turbos, it is preferable to have a variable electric pump. The same would apply to a naturally aspirated motor used on street\track with very high rpm limits and much higher temperature output. My experience is that the thermostat in a turbo or radical carb application functions at a lower setting so that when the turbos spool up or the carb is gulping massive amounts of air, the excessive heat is somewhat offset by the lower stat setting. However, the problem comes in when just cruising and the engine is way off max output and it runs too cool. Add a variable electric pump to the equation and it might be possible to keep a more complex engine\induction system functioning at optimum temperature regardless of whether on the street or track. I'm going to try that with the SBF I'm building.

 

[Lee]

Brett
Not sure how you could use the block mounted pumps, but if you used a Davies Craig remote pump couldn't you plumb it into the main line from the rad to the engine, and then use the EBP (Davies Craig Booster Pump)permanently running coolant round the heater circuit? You could even put a switch in the EBP electric circuit so you could switch the EBP off once you and the car are up to temperature?
You would have to T the heater circuit into the 2 lines into the block, and into the outlet from the thermostat housing (having removed the thermostat and fitted the DC temp sensor in its place.

 

[Jools]

You may find it helpfull to contact Paul Thompson @ Smart-Tec as he has now done a number of electric water pump installs including mine and as well as de-bugging a number of installation issues has made a very neat add on to my standard controller , so that i can now run with the pump on continually during start/warm up, and visually see what the status of the pump is .