Fling SLC Build Thread

Michael Fling

While I don’t receive my SLC until early July, I wanted to start a SLC build thread for Dummies for 4 specific reasons: 1) So others may learn from my journey 2) So that I can learn from others too. 3) Much of the “build” is based on decisions and items you commit to before you ever have the car 4) I am the dummy. Some build threads are meat and potatoes. My goal is to have a thread where I can gather good information/feedback, and share with others how/why I did what I did. Many of the build threads make assumptions of builders knowledge and understanding. As I explore and learn, my hope on this thread is to give/get input and feedback along the way. As I have investigated the potential of a build, I believe there may be others considering a SLC build that are coming from a similar place as me. I am not a gearhead, but I do have great hand skills, and I expect a lot. I get frustrated and inpatient that I have so much to learn- but I will. It was my lack of mechanical knowledge that has been my biggest concern with the build. That simply means that I have a lot to learn, and for many, some of my questions may seem crazy, elementary, ridiculous- who knows? Sorry Fran.

I am a dentist. I am used to dealing with detail. As anal retentive as I am, I give great attention to the smallest of details. I am also very artistic. About a dozen years ago, I started racing. By no means do we have the experience of some on this forum, but we do have a reasonable level of experience with multiple championships. I raced a TAG Master Interpid kart, along with my son who was 10 at the time (He raced TAG Jr.). http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac206/mcfling/scan1-1.jpg?t=1363542834
We both had great success. After taking a driving school at Bondurant, I came home and immediately bought a Formula Mazda. http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac206/mcfling/IMG_2948.jpg?t=1363539698 I raced SCCA events, and when my son turned 16, he did too.http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/...s/ac206/mcfling/IMG_1115copy.jpg?t=1363539383 We then went to a Formula Enterprise. While it was a really good-looking car that handled really well, we had a heck of a time keeping the sequential gearbox in the car. http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac206/mcfling/C-048b1copy.jpg?t=1363540618 So that is my background. I had professionals do the majority of the upkeep, setup and mechanical work on the cars. I did manage to learn and do a little along the way. So, I am not an idiot, but becoming a car builder is a giant leap.

Timing. I love road course cars. I had been eying an Ultima GTR for a few years. While we are completing plans to build a new house with an extra garage for a project, it will be a least a year before it will be ready. I had intended on waiting until then to start a build, but I decided I am not getting any younger- so I am ready to proceed. I have a heated storage place where I garage a few other toys. I outfitted it today with new workbenches. They are really cool, and pretty low in costs. Believe it or not, they are from SAM’s. They are heavy-duty metal construction (Seville) with a maple work surface. They have an entire line of options from benches to cabinets and shelves. I will transfer them to the new house later. After seeing the SLC on Gearz, I was hooked. I really liked the idea of the modern chassis, the fact that the company is based in the U.S., and I love the aesthetic appeal of the car. My wife traveled with me to Detroit on Valentines Day! That was an invaluable experience for both of us. She was sold too. Not just Fran’s good looks and charm, but she also was impressed with the car too. Without her traveling to see it herself, I doubt that I would have been given the thumbs up so soon. See is actually excited for me.

What to order? I battled within myself trying to determine if I wanted a car for racing, or a streetcar I could track. I finally decided to go with the streetcar I can track too. It was important to me to have Fran do as much as possible, although I did want to experience some of the fun myself. For that reason, I decided to have him drop in the engine and transaxial. While my ego wanted a LS7, Fran made good sense about me using the LS3. So that is what I did. Considering that the Green Monster that won the NASA championship had that powerplant, I figured it had to be enough for me too! I am having Kelly Longwish deliver the engine directly to Fran’s shop. I will use this car on the weekends, occasionally to work, and then on the track for fun. I have already determined that a LMP is in my future. That will be my “racecar”. My wife says 1 at a time. Here it is:

LS376 with 480 hp
Tranny- 6 Speed
New Style Gentleman’s seats
Seat brackets for seat adjustment
GM Steering column
Michelin Pilot Sports
Spyder Wheels
Gray Finish
1 Piece Coolant Pipes
Side Exhaust
Interior Panels
Telescoping foot pedals
Street Tail
Fling Wing
Track Day Front Splitter
9 Piece Inner Wheel Well
Front Lift Kit
Penske Shocks
Handbrake- TBD
Body Fitment
Bolt in Sidebars
Clutch, flywheel and starter installed
Body Fitment
Tow Hook in airscoop
Flip intake manifold / accessory drive and oil pressure

Things to Modify:

French in vents on front fenders
Fling Wing
Alter Air Inlet Scoop
Powder coat brake calipers

Outside. One of the things I am comfortable doing is body/paint work. I have prepped and painted my past race cars, and I have done fiberglass work. Here is a fairing I made for my Suzuki m109r. I also did the paint.http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac206/mcfling/IMG_9783.jpg?t=1363540878
http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac206/mcfling/IMG_9791.jpg?t=1363541252 I intend to french in the front fender vents, and I am going to modify the air inlet. It may be sinful, but I want to square up the inlet and extend it closer to the front windscreen. I know a lot of aerodynamic testing has resulted in this existing shape, but I want to make that change. I love cars that are silver/yellow. I fell in love with that combo years ago watching the Audi at the 24 hours of Lemans. I felt the gray bodywork would be the best primer color. I am still up in the air about silver/yellow, or yellow/silver. If I go with the silver body and yellow stripe, I will have the wheels powder coated yellow. If I go reversed, the wheels will be left in gunmetal.

Inside- I want to have an interior that doesn’t have a “kitcar” feel. I went with the interior body panels, and I intend on having a leather interior that has a 2 tone finish. I will have a rearview camera with an interior mounted screen. I already have questions about what I should do that looks great but still carries a good balance between street and track. While I have the "gentleman's" seats, I am going to have them covered in leather. I will be using a 5 point harness from Schroth (Profi II) that provides a release with a button release.

Engine- To be honest, I have no idea if I could have found a less expensive source/option with an LS3? I had looked at a LS3 with a different crank, because I had wanted that "lumpy" sound. I learned that in changing the cam, the warranty is invalid. That concerned me, so I went with the LS3 376, 480 hp. It seemed the ease of having Kelly deliver it to Fran made life easy.

Given my concerns with the build, Fran said that the body fitment was a must do. He will also be mating the transaxial/engine and placing it in the car. That negates that I have to do many of the mods that seem beyond my first build experience to ready this portion of the build. Because I will track the car some, Penske shocks and the bolt in sidebars are a must. I went with the trackday front splitter (there are 3 options/ street/trackday/race).

I have read through the build manual so many times, and I have read multiple build threads over and over. One of the things that strikes me is that most of the builders have a significantly higher level of understanding of things- and you may assume that any builder should understand those things. But it aint so. Thus, I read, and learn. And I ask. I love Dean’s build thread. I like the approach of getting something on the road that looks and functions beutifully well- yet it doesn't get so caught up in "stuff" that it stays in the garage. That is my intent. I don’t want a multi year project. My goal is to make it to the Cars and Coffe in March 2014. So here are some of the things I have learned and addressed already:

1. I am going with an Accusump. While the LS3 wet sump can be safe on the track running an extra quart of oil, the Accusump is good insurance. I purchased one from another owner for $300. I have learned the need for a low-pressure and high-pressure pump. I am open to suggestions for any recommendations on pumps and installation as I am unclear about what I will need to go with it.

2. I went with the 1 piece coolant pipes. I assume insulating those is important for cabin comfort, although I am unclear if there is a preferred material/technique?

3. Heat protection. I was amazed by what YOS has done. So much so that I already have my 36 sq’ of Reflect-a-Gold (DEI). I am having that applied before Fran drops the engine in. I thought it would be too difficult to apply it after the fact. I just placed a post regarding heat/sound deadening. My guess is that I will be going with Dynamat for dampening and sound? I was curious about some of the dampening/sound materials that DEI offered (Boom Mat). Some of the feedback on my posts suggests multiple layers are used. Here is my ignorance kicking in… If I apply the Dynamat early in the build, it would seem it could get damaged when working on the car? Also, when placing the seat rails, I would assume a spacer would have to be used to compensate for the thickness of this material and carpet? Does anyone have specifics on materials, layers applied in particular places and techniques? See- I told you there might be some dumb question!

4. I went with Sparco seat rails (Saferacer $140). I learned the importance of having rails that “lock” on both rails. I would love to find a way to change the height/angle of the seat too. My concern is that my wife may have to put a pillow in the seat when she drives it to Wal Mart. Any suggestions?

5. Exhaust. I want a deep sound that is tempered- some. I know- I want loud and quiet all at the same time. I looked and listened on YouTube and decided on the Flowmaster 13012100 Pro Series Shortie Muffler, 3” in/out ($223). Flowmaster has a “shortie” (not Pro Series) but it is suggested for use up to 400hp, thus the need to step up to the Pro Series. While Flowmaster suggested a ”H” pipe, my understanding is that is it not needed, and that there is no room for it anyway. These have the “cool” technology that keeps heat down even in confined areas. I am having Fran put in the side exhaust. I ordered them through Amazon and had them delivered to his shop. I `love the look of the side exhaust, plus I am going with the street tail.

6. I wanted the back of the car covered and not exposed with the diffuser. Thus, I went with the street tail- yet I wanted the race wing. I like how the street tail extends down farther behind the rear wheels. The problem is having the race wing with this tail. So, Fran has come up with a solution I call the "Fling Wing". He is having a mount from the frame behind the street tail that holds the rear wing. 4 pins are removed and the wing comes off. Now the rear bonnet can be opened.

7. Brake lines. I love what YOS did with his brake lines. I ordered the red single and double T clamps from Summit Racing ($68.12)

8. The fuel surge tank and the expansion tank is now included in the kit. I will definitely have questions about where and how. I have learned why they are needed, and I will be looking for direction on "how".

9. I have learned about AN fittings. May sound basic to some, I only knew that is what we had on our cars- but I didn't know why?. Braided teflon lines seem to be in order too.

So I am off the the storage spot to finish build the benches. I'll post some pics later. Any thoughts or input regarding things I have listed, or items I should consider would be appreciated. I will follow up more with the Build Thread for Dummies as My brain wanders for more answers...

Cheers for now...
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Ken Roberts

Good idea getting your knowledge base started early on Michael. That's what I did and it's made the build much more enjoyable. I was able to arrange my purchases much better too.

I put all my pictures on Photobucket then move them to this forum.
Micheal, I see some similarities in our built objectives and vision of the completed project. Ironically, I see direct opposites in our comfort levels. I'm very comfortable with the mechanics; however, not so much with the body and paint so I will be farming that out.

I expect to take delivery around mid-May. I too wanted to go with the LS7 and Fran talked me out of it. However, as hard as he tried, he was unable to talk me into the LS3/480. I decided that a nice compromise, booth dollars and performance would be the LS3/525. You may laugh at my reasoning...but here it is: I had a drop dead gorgeous Corvette 2005 C5 with a replica 1962 C1 body. A couple of years ago I took it to the Barrett-Jackson auction, everyone that saw the car went absolutely wild over it, that is until I popped the hood and they saw the stock 350HP engine. It was like they expected to see a power plant of equal caliber to the interior and exterior of the car. One guy even had the nerve to ask me if I ran out of money when I got around to the engine?

Call it an ego trip but from on; nothing less than 500HP, even though I will probably never use that extra horse. Example: my 2006 C6 Corvette with an equally drop dead 1963 Split Window Coupe is a ZO6 with a Edelbrock Super Charger putting out 657 ponies!

I did not order the interior panels and will be doing so later into the build. For me it is a space/storage issue. The SLC will make 7 cars in the garage and I didn't want to take a chance on damaging parts in tight quarters.

I too, want to get a jump on ordering as many supplies in advance of the delivery. In reading all of the build threads, a common theme seems to be projects being held up while guys are waiting for that brown UPS truck.

Michael, what model number(s) did you use in ordering your single and double T-clamps, I have been unable to determine what the diameter the brake line is.

Looking forward to reading more posts and best of luck with your build!


Michael Fling

Ken- maybe I am taking 1 step forward and 2 steps back? I ordered MFY-1018813 single place T clamps- 1 set of 8. MFY-2028813 Double place T clamps- 2 sets of 6. Maybe the difference in order numbers is the color?

Persistence paid off. Here are pics that are referenced for initial post...

Tag Jr.

Fabricated fairing and painted m109r



Formula Mazda



Tyler Formula Mazda



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Our build objectives, engine, and most options are the same. It has been great talking to you and we'll be going through this together in about the same timeframe. Make sure you let me know next time you are in Dallas,
I think this thread is a great idea. Almost a year ago I suggested a Sticky that would list links to threads addressing specific areas of the builds (transaxle, FEAD, exhaust, etc.) and asked for help from the guys that have those past threads memorized. No one bit.

As to Fran's recommendations on an engine for your build, I think it depends on the mood he's in at the time you ask him, or maybe the current phase of the moon. His first suggestion to me was an LS376/480. Later it was the LS7. Then it was the LS9 when that motor went on sale.

I was scared he was going to insist on an NRE twin turbo next, so I quickly had Brian Thomson build a nice naturally aspirated LS motor with a sexy intake, so the recommendations wouldn't escalate any further...

I think this thread is a great idea. Almost a year ago I suggested a Sticky that would list links to threads addressing specific areas of the builds (transaxle, FEAD, exhaust, etc.) and asked for help from the guys that have those past threads memorized. No one bit.


It's probably time to remind people that there is a wiki for the SLC builder. The idea of the wiki is that it is a single place where specific areas of an SLC build can be summarized for future reference, and to help new builders. Anyone can register and add to it, make corrections, add more detail, etc.

There has been some interest, but more is always better.

Please look it over, and contribute. If you don't feel comfortable editing the wiki, just send the info you have to me and I'll enter it for you.

The link is here: Superlite SLC Builders wiki - Where SLC builders meet to share....
Ken- maybe I am taking 1 step forward and 2 steps back? I ordered MFY-1018813 single place T clamps- 1 set of 8. MFY-2028813 Double place T clamps- 2 sets of 6. Maybe the difference in order numbers is the color?

The #13 at the end of the number denotes the color Red being ordered.

Do you think that you ordered enough...I ordered 3-packs of each.


Michael Fling

I have had some interesting input regarding corrosion that can/will occur when mating stainless steel and aluminum. Obviously there are a multitude of screws brackets, components that will mount into the framerails, floors, cockpit etc. While aluminum rivets could reduce the concern, it seems there are many items that could not be mounted or secured with aluminum. So, how do you manage this concern?
Hey Mike...I've looked into this too, but I'm not really worried about it. I'm using a lot of stainless fasteners on my car.

I believe that galvanic corrosion exists...I've just never seen it as bad as I've read about. My jet boat was designed with all the metallic structural parts made of aluminum, and all the fasteners were stainless. When I bought the boat, it had been sitting outside for years. The only place I had any trouble removing bolts was in the transom area below the water line. Since then I've totally rebuilt the boat, and almost every new part I've ordered was a mixture of aluminum and stainless. No issues yet.

So...needless to say...I don't really fear "galvanic" corrosion on my garage kept, and always babied SLC. Just my two cents :thumbsup:

Edit: Your race cars are awesome!!!

Michael Fling

I photoshopped the change I intend on making to the air inlet scoop. Fran said that they had aerodynamic testing that resulted in what they have. I want to make the scoop come more forward and have a more square profile. He did mention that this may result in increased airflow. Just wanted to give a peek into what I envision...

Mike, the change you would like to make will indeed increase airflow into the scoop....with it increased pressure ,so your inner roof panel will need to be very well installed.

The amount of work into changing the scoop should not be underestimated for a first timer either....and you will also need to paint the car once you have completed the body mods.

Take your time and practice on something else before working on the body mods
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Michael Fling

I have done a reasonable amount of fiberglass and paint work work. My intent was to have the car painted regardless. Once I get the car, I may find it is too involved, but that is my intent for now. I am sure I will have plenty of questions about inner roof support etc. then. I was also intending on "frenching" in the front fender vents too, BUT I have wondered if it would be better to have them fitted in a way that they were more flush, yet removable (in the event of damage or need of replacement).