Fran Hall RCR
GT40s Sponsor
I know we have damaged a few vents on track...we use the carbon ones too...so removable would be my choice
Fling SLC Build Thread
- Thread starter mcfling
- Start date
Mike I would have to agree with Fran on the snorkle mod as simple as it may seem I think you may change your mind once you see the effort involved. Extending it forward wouldn't be to difficult, but to do a sq to round transistion and make it blend in nice would be pretty much a whole new roof design. But then again am a "if it isn't broke don't fix it kinda guy"
Cheers,
Cheers,
I have never had any issues - just use anti-seize on every bolt going into/through the aluminum and properly "torque" things - i.e., use a nut driver or screw driver to tighten bolts that are drilled/tapped into the frame, don't get out the torque wrench and try for 10ft-lbs, lol.
I agree with Yos - corrosion exists but if you read some of the posts on this forum you'd swear people are planning on driving their car through puddles of salt water 24/7.
Michael Fling
Supporter
Got the work area ready. Now- I need a car!. These are awesome benches by Seville that I found at SAM's. Heavy duty construction, with drawer liners included and maple counter work surface. Workbench- $200, Cabinet/bench- $400, Parts Bin- $100, Metal shelf- $150.
I thought they were priced really well...
I thought they were priced really well...
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Michael Fling
Supporter
Found these cool billet switches.
19mm Momentary Billet Buttons with LED Orange Ring || Keep It Clean Wiring
They can custom engrave to say Headlight etc.
Any suggestions on switches that might be needed?
Headlights
Accusump
Interior lights
???
19mm Momentary Billet Buttons with LED Orange Ring || Keep It Clean Wiring
They can custom engrave to say Headlight etc.
Any suggestions on switches that might be needed?
Headlights
Accusump
Interior lights
???
Howard Jones
Supporter
You seam like a smart guy that likes to learn. After all you went to dental school, you must know how to study. So.............
I really like these books. I refer to them quite a lot.
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Prepare-Win-Bolts-Professional-Preparation/dp/0615547338/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1364224203&sr=1-4]Prepare to Win: The Nuts and Bolts Guide to Professional Race Car Preparation: Carroll Smith: 9780615547336: Amazon.com: Books[/ame]
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Tune-Win-science-development-tuning/dp/0879380713/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_y]Tune to Win: The art and science of race car development and tuning: Carroll Smith: 9780879380717: Amazon.com: Books[/ame]
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-Motorbooks-Workshop-Carroll-Smith/dp/0879381868/ref=pd_sim_b_3]Engineer to Win (Motorbooks Workshop): Carroll Smith: 9780879381868: Amazon.com: Books[/ame]
And one more........
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Chassis-Engineering-Building-Performance-Handling/dp/1557880557/ref=rec_dp_0]Chassis Engineering: Chassis Design, Building & Tuning for High Performance Handling: Herb Adams: 9781557880550: Amazon.com: Books[/ame]
Pretty much everything I have ever needed to know was here some where. I also take a lot of pictures of race cars with the bodywork off, when I can, along with posted pictures where I find them on specific subjects. For instance, I am collecting a lot of pictures of anti roll bar installations that use push rods and bell cranks now.
Then I save them in a folder I named "good ideas".
Good luck with your build..........you can do it............no problem!!
I really like these books. I refer to them quite a lot.
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Prepare-Win-Bolts-Professional-Preparation/dp/0615547338/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1364224203&sr=1-4]Prepare to Win: The Nuts and Bolts Guide to Professional Race Car Preparation: Carroll Smith: 9780615547336: Amazon.com: Books[/ame]
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Tune-Win-science-development-tuning/dp/0879380713/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_y]Tune to Win: The art and science of race car development and tuning: Carroll Smith: 9780879380717: Amazon.com: Books[/ame]
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-Motorbooks-Workshop-Carroll-Smith/dp/0879381868/ref=pd_sim_b_3]Engineer to Win (Motorbooks Workshop): Carroll Smith: 9780879381868: Amazon.com: Books[/ame]
And one more........
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Chassis-Engineering-Building-Performance-Handling/dp/1557880557/ref=rec_dp_0]Chassis Engineering: Chassis Design, Building & Tuning for High Performance Handling: Herb Adams: 9781557880550: Amazon.com: Books[/ame]
Pretty much everything I have ever needed to know was here some where. I also take a lot of pictures of race cars with the bodywork off, when I can, along with posted pictures where I find them on specific subjects. For instance, I am collecting a lot of pictures of anti roll bar installations that use push rods and bell cranks now.
Then I save them in a folder I named "good ideas".
Good luck with your build..........you can do it............no problem!!
Michael Fling
Supporter
Cool- got em ordered!
Dr. David
Lifetime Supporter
Here's a possible idea for all of you:
The maple counter work surfaces like you have on your benches is similar to my Baldhead cabinets. It is great looking, but I always hate to mar it up. What I have done is gone to a farm supply store and purchased black rubber stall mats for horse stalls. They are essentially a sheet of recycled car tires, heavy, smooth, and a great surface to work on. I cut them into strips to fit the countertop with a sabre saw (jigsaw) and then bevel the edges with an angle grinder for a finished look. You can pound on it, drill into it, etc and you can't really mess it up. It also comes in handy to have a few smaller pieces laying around to use to drill into or to use for cushioning between parts and concrete. I made some workbenches for one of my garages out of Gorilla Racks (from Costco) and put strips of stall mats over the plywood shelves and, ten years later, I still have and awesome work surface. They are heavy, so bring a friend and a pickup or trailer when you go to pick them up. The job may require a six-pack as well.
It works great for me, maybe it will work well for others too.
The maple counter work surfaces like you have on your benches is similar to my Baldhead cabinets. It is great looking, but I always hate to mar it up. What I have done is gone to a farm supply store and purchased black rubber stall mats for horse stalls. They are essentially a sheet of recycled car tires, heavy, smooth, and a great surface to work on. I cut them into strips to fit the countertop with a sabre saw (jigsaw) and then bevel the edges with an angle grinder for a finished look. You can pound on it, drill into it, etc and you can't really mess it up. It also comes in handy to have a few smaller pieces laying around to use to drill into or to use for cushioning between parts and concrete. I made some workbenches for one of my garages out of Gorilla Racks (from Costco) and put strips of stall mats over the plywood shelves and, ten years later, I still have and awesome work surface. They are heavy, so bring a friend and a pickup or trailer when you go to pick them up. The job may require a six-pack as well.
It works great for me, maybe it will work well for others too.
Michael Fling
Supporter
Hazard light! Thanks Cam. The horse mat is a great idea. Notice the horse trailer in the picture? Maybe I can get them out of the trailer without my wife knowing? Of course I would have a bit of an odor to deal with!
I have a unit in my motorcoach that I am looking at putting in the SLC. It is a unit that integrates rear view camera, GPS, radio, XM, blue tooth and it displays mph too. My thought was to mount it in the center panel area. To be honest, I was not aware that the center area didn't have room to mount anything there. Is there no depth available at all in the center area? I was told the Vintage Air prohibits that. The display unit goes about 6" deep. Here is something cool. There is a 1"x3" box that integrates with the unit that allows for side rearview cameras too. A small elongated domed vent is placed in the body on each side that faces the rear (they houses a small camera). When the blinker is turned on, the screen shows that side/rear of the car on the screen. My intent is to have my interior and dash covered with leather. Practical or not, that is my thinking. My point is that I may do some fiberglass alterations to my dash panel as needed to make room for this display. Fiberglass is a no brainer to me. Since it will be getting covered, that makes it even easier.
I have a unit in my motorcoach that I am looking at putting in the SLC. It is a unit that integrates rear view camera, GPS, radio, XM, blue tooth and it displays mph too. My thought was to mount it in the center panel area. To be honest, I was not aware that the center area didn't have room to mount anything there. Is there no depth available at all in the center area? I was told the Vintage Air prohibits that. The display unit goes about 6" deep. Here is something cool. There is a 1"x3" box that integrates with the unit that allows for side rearview cameras too. A small elongated domed vent is placed in the body on each side that faces the rear (they houses a small camera). When the blinker is turned on, the screen shows that side/rear of the car on the screen. My intent is to have my interior and dash covered with leather. Practical or not, that is my thinking. My point is that I may do some fiberglass alterations to my dash panel as needed to make room for this display. Fiberglass is a no brainer to me. Since it will be getting covered, that makes it even easier.
Michael, it's not so much a case of not enough depth; the major issue is height and width of the oval shaped center console area! If you mount the Vintage Air controls in this area...there is barley enough room left over for a few switches, let a lone a display screen! Unless I'm missing something here...it seems to me that it is one or the other. Look at some of the pictures of builds that have the Vintage Air mounted in this area.
Perfect solution: Incorporate the Vintage Air controls into the display screen.
Jim
Michael Fling
Supporter
If you have any pics- pass them on. Are you saying that this panel area houses the switches and that if there is a screen there that there isn't room for the switches? Do those switches go directly into the Vintage Air or are they remote? I am going by to visit with my guy today about the unit and I will pass along exact dimensions.
Howard Jones
Supporter
Now that I see how much head room you have I would install a light duty crane so that you can lift the body center section on and off by yourself. I you just run it up to the roof it will give you plenty of room underneath to work on stuff. A 1/2 ton unit will also lift the engine/gearbox in and out. Pretty cheap 110v units out there. If you can't do that then a chain hoist would also work fine. I wish I had the overhead room. I would do it in a min.
Michael Fling
Supporter
The Kenwood unit has a display that is 6"x3". The unit is about 7'x4". (7-3/16 x 4-7/16 x 6-7/16 inch) Here is a link.
Kenwood - DNX890HD
Can anyone give me more info about the center dash area and space regarding the Vintage Air?
Kenwood - DNX890HD
Can anyone give me more info about the center dash area and space regarding the Vintage Air?
As has been discussed many times, there is no room in the center stack (with the stock dash) for any kind of a regular double-DIN unit. The problem is in the depth- or lack of it.
Some solutions by others include 7" or so tablets, certain systems with removable 7" screens, or hacking a traditional double-DIN unit to separate the screen from the rest of the unit.
The unit you show above is one of the traditional units, based on the specs. You'd have to hack it to get the screen separated, or extend the dashboard out to find room (as one ot two builders have done.)
There is only about 1-2" of usable depth behind the center stack with the stock dashboard.
Some solutions by others include 7" or so tablets, certain systems with removable 7" screens, or hacking a traditional double-DIN unit to separate the screen from the rest of the unit.
The unit you show above is one of the traditional units, based on the specs. You'd have to hack it to get the screen separated, or extend the dashboard out to find room (as one ot two builders have done.)
There is only about 1-2" of usable depth behind the center stack with the stock dashboard.
