Frank's KVA Build
- Thread starter Frank Beuker
- Start date
Meinolf,
die nummer ist von einen seite
frank
die nummer ist von einen seite
frank
Hallo Meinolf ich wurde der stahlsorte uberlassen an der specialist ,ich wurde nur der zeichnungen machen unt nicht die metalwerken unt die durchmesser wird etwas wie 25mm
I just told meinolf that i'm not going to make the upper and lower arms myself also because they will be brons welded and i'm going for about 25mm in diameter I'm sorry for the german but i'll translate as much as possible in to english
John, sorry for the languagebarriere butt he can get the parts in germany (where it comes from) and probably for a good price butt thanks for the info and maby for some use for others under us
Frank
I just told meinolf that i'm not going to make the upper and lower arms myself also because they will be brons welded and i'm going for about 25mm in diameter I'm sorry for the german but i'll translate as much as possible in to english
John, sorry for the languagebarriere butt he can get the parts in germany (where it comes from) and probably for a good price butt thanks for the info and maby for some use for others under us
Frank
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Frank
Looking good - very good
Possibly worth suggesting you consider how the skinning will work, that will allow you to remove the bolts holding the front suspension once it is a "whole car"(If the bolt goes with the nut on the rear portion or the front portion - and how your hand will get in there to hold the spanner.)
I wish I had your fabrication skills
Ian
Looking good - very good
Possibly worth suggesting you consider how the skinning will work, that will allow you to remove the bolts holding the front suspension once it is a "whole car"(If the bolt goes with the nut on the rear portion or the front portion - and how your hand will get in there to hold the spanner.)
I wish I had your fabrication skills
Ian
Last edited:
Thank you for the compliment i'm also learning as I proceed
butt not bad for a gardner don't you think
about the skinning ,the nuts are welded and i'm going to make a hatch to remove the bolt's
butt not bad for a gardner don't you think
about the skinning ,the nuts are welded and i'm going to make a hatch to remove the bolt's
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Frank
The welded nuts sound like a great idea - only problem I see is most setups use Nylock nuts to stop the nut / bolt coming undone.
Saying that it may still be possible to use the welded nut - use bolts drilled for wire lockng and wire lock the bolt to stop it turning and coming undone.
Ian
The welded nuts sound like a great idea - only problem I see is most setups use Nylock nuts to stop the nut / bolt coming undone.
Saying that it may still be possible to use the welded nut - use bolts drilled for wire lockng and wire lock the bolt to stop it turning and coming undone.
Ian
i could drill the head of the bolt and weld a little eye to connect the bolt with wire so it won't turn lose
Frank
Super nice job on the prototyping, I am sure the fit will work. I have used captive nuts on my suspension bolt-ups where it was difficult to get a wrench, and I would suggest you source some c-type locknuts. I know that Lawson has them, and they are in the U.K., but I am not sure about the rest of Europe though. These nuts have a crimp on the end and do not come loose even if heated substantially. I regularly weld these in place and they always hold.
They are rated grade 8 and come in USS and SAE threads, not sure about metric.
You can find Lawson on the web, and I am sure there are other suppliers.
Cheers
Phil
Super nice job on the prototyping, I am sure the fit will work. I have used captive nuts on my suspension bolt-ups where it was difficult to get a wrench, and I would suggest you source some c-type locknuts. I know that Lawson has them, and they are in the U.K., but I am not sure about the rest of Europe though. These nuts have a crimp on the end and do not come loose even if heated substantially. I regularly weld these in place and they always hold.
They are rated grade 8 and come in USS and SAE threads, not sure about metric.
You can find Lawson on the web, and I am sure there are other suppliers.
Cheers
Phil
thanks Phil but the nuts are already welded on and i can't grind them off due to the lack of space
frank
frank
Frank
I am enjoying reading a fellow KVA Builders log and have been wondering if you have given any thought to correcting the KVAs rear bump steer?
Ken Atwells chassis mounting points for the lower pair of radius arms gave my C type chassis over six degrees of bump steer and your chassis appears to have the same configuration.
Regards
Tom
I am enjoying reading a fellow KVA Builders log and have been wondering if you have given any thought to correcting the KVAs rear bump steer?
Ken Atwells chassis mounting points for the lower pair of radius arms gave my C type chassis over six degrees of bump steer and your chassis appears to have the same configuration.
Regards
Tom
Tom have a good look i've changed the rear part completely
and there should be some moreposts about this
Frank
and there should be some moreposts about this
Frank
Frank
I have had another look at your rear suspension and believe the bump steer problem is still there. I know you have changed the rear part but still feel that the trouble persists.
It is fundamental to the 1960s design of the GT 40s suspension, which used a lower, reversed, “A” arm.
To eliminate bump steer with this set up it is necessary to position the chassis mounting point of the lower radius rod much further inboard than that used on the KVA. Other Replica manufacturers have done this to some extent but it is a major design problem on the C type KVA chassis. In my experience, if left unmodified, KVAs location of the lower mounting point would make the rear of the car extremely nervous, even dangerous, to drive.
As you are aware there have been various solutions suggested to this in other posts such as adjustment of rear caster angle, modifying the anti squat angle etc. Personally I chose to convert my rear suspension to a twin parallel lower link set up which eliminates any possibility of bump steer. Looking at the modifications you have done to the rear of your chassis this would seem to be a relatively simple solution for you as well and one that I would recommend.
Best wishes
Tom
I have had another look at your rear suspension and believe the bump steer problem is still there. I know you have changed the rear part but still feel that the trouble persists.
It is fundamental to the 1960s design of the GT 40s suspension, which used a lower, reversed, “A” arm.
To eliminate bump steer with this set up it is necessary to position the chassis mounting point of the lower radius rod much further inboard than that used on the KVA. Other Replica manufacturers have done this to some extent but it is a major design problem on the C type KVA chassis. In my experience, if left unmodified, KVAs location of the lower mounting point would make the rear of the car extremely nervous, even dangerous, to drive.
As you are aware there have been various solutions suggested to this in other posts such as adjustment of rear caster angle, modifying the anti squat angle etc. Personally I chose to convert my rear suspension to a twin parallel lower link set up which eliminates any possibility of bump steer. Looking at the modifications you have done to the rear of your chassis this would seem to be a relatively simple solution for you as well and one that I would recommend.
Best wishes
Tom
Tom i did change the lower mounting changed the caster and checked the bumbsteer which has changed from about 3 cm each wheel to nill so i did manage to convert the kva to a beuker design
Frank
Frank
Frank, If you wish to make your bolts vibration proof & sort of self locking--- drill a hole about 3mm dia x 3mm deep in the thread portion that sits in the welded/captive nut, press a short piece of hard nylon rod into this hole and trim off slightly above thread tops and fit to car. The nylon acts as a semi self locking aid without causing any thread deformation etc.
Jac Mac
Jac Mac
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