Help Alex figure out if a carb will fit =)

You mean like this...
Mmmm, I'm liking your line of thinking :D

Once I get my engine I can have solid measurments (although the plastic block is supposed to be accurate w/i 1/100 and I simulated the tall deck effect as best I could, but it's better safe than sorry) and then start the scoop project with you ..... although since none of these buggers want to step up and share development costs I think I'll need a royalty from anybody who goes 'OMFG! MUST haVE ALEX SCOOP NOW! THAT IS SO COOL!' :D

Find a lower profile manifold and/or shave the top of yours down. Every little bit will help.
GMPP single plane (graciously provided by Fran for testing) is about the lowest profile you can go. The ideal manifold for my engine is a Mast/Black label CNC'd one, but it's 3'' taller :/

The current idea is to use a gmpp one, cnc port it to the extreme and head match it ..... of course doing this nobody knows if the manifold will be a small handicap to the engine (e.g., 20hp loss on the dyno), or a signifigant one (e.g., 80hp loss on the dyno, versus a Mast), because it's not the ideal intake to use.


There's no point shaving the carb pad down as that will rob power and probably cause other issues (fuel percolation causing hard starts in the summer; etc..)
 

Ron Earp

Admin
Shaving that carb pad down isn't going to kill it.

Another alternative would be to have a low profile sheet metal unit fabricated.
 
Shaving wont kill it, but it certainly isn't going to do any favors.

I talked with several sheet metal manufacturers - Beck, Marcellas, Wilson - and all of them felt CNC porting the gmpp one would be your best bet. You could get a custom one, but for the cost it won't perform any better and may actually end up being worse because the runners really need to be about 8-9'' in length.

The sticking point, of course, is nobody knows how much of a handicap a fully ported intake would be. Obviously 10000x better than an unported one, but versus the proper one, nobody knows - based on other engines we're thinking it should be good for around 800rwhp on 91 pump gas (obviously won't know until it hits the dyno), so if I wonder if it would be a case that the Mast would make (for example) 800rwhp, but this low profile intake fully ported would only make 720rwhp.
 

Kevin L

Supporter
Alex, your right... 720HP is no where near enough... That sounds like a real problem

One thing to consider is to go with the easy thing that works and then consider an upgrade at a later date to get all of that extra 80HP back. The advantage of having only 720HP is you can focus on keeping the car straight down the track while you tweak and tune the suspension to get the optimal setup. Once the car is setup real good like, you could go for the extra 80, then your car would really be a beast....

Sarcasm aside, you are going to be changing a bunch of things on the car once it is running, I would go with what gets you there with more HP than it/you can handle and worry about EFI at a later date.

Kevin
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Of course it will fit. But you can't just buy parts and throw them at it and expect them to work. You gotta make something!

Follow my build thread and you will see how to do it. These first pictures are a cardboard mockup to get some idea of how much room there is. I have progressed quite a ways since then and have begun welding up a filter box. Give me a week or so and it will be done
 

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You mean like this...
How about two of those clocked at 10 and 2 o'clock?
That would be f'ing perfect for me and also some twin turbo LS applications down the road that are bound to happen.

If there was a small bulge or just increased clearance in the lower center at the bottom of the window apex where the two scoops meet/converge, that would make me happy and also satisfy requirements of a large intake tube feeding a reversed intake manifold on an LS being fed from twin turbochargers. This would also satisfy Alex's clearance requirements.

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It would also look super badass.
 
Alex, your right... 720HP is no where near enough... That sounds like a real problem

One thing to consider is to go with the easy thing that works and then consider an upgrade at a later date to get all of that extra 80HP back. The advantage of having only 720HP is you can focus on keeping the car straight down the track while you tweak and tune the suspension to get the optimal setup. Once the car is setup real good like, you could go for the extra 80, then your car would really be a beast....

Sarcasm aside, you are going to be changing a bunch of things on the car once it is running, I would go with what gets you there with more HP than it/you can handle and worry about EFI at a later date.

Kevin
*cough* RWhp .... so to revise my numbers to (rough) flywheel, say, 900hp vs 820hp ... don't cheat me any power there ;)

The problem is I can't just swap to EFI if I want to later on - the cam profile and a bunch of stuff depends on my decision now - carb or efi. I mean, I could swap down the road if I wanted, but I sure as heck don't want the added expense of shipping the engine back to try out a bunch of cam profiles to see what works best.

There are a few 502s out there, but it's still breaking ground in some senses - even now we've got to play around with different ideas to satisfy all the requirements (lumpy/nasty idle around 1000rpm, streetable, decent power, etc....)


Of course it will fit. But you can't just buy parts and throw them at it and expect them to work. You gotta make something!

Follow my build thread and you will see how to do it. These first pictures are a cardboard mockup to get some idea of how much room there is. I have progressed quite a ways since then and have begun welding up a filter box. Give me a week or so and it will be done
Factor in a tall deck though, and a dominator carb probably, and I'm pretty sure your airbox wouldn't work for me - not enough room to extend it forwards.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
How much vertical clearance do you have from the top of the carb inlet flange to the closest point of the lexan rear window?
 
Fran-- are you going to build one of those cars? What is that? It's mean looking. I love it. I even like the rear scoop which is surprising since I'm not a fan of scoops in general.

You should do something like that Alex and call it a day.
 
Everything from them is way over priced BUT as a group we are some creative gear heads and he may be able to "create" a clone to suit his needs. I plan to put a camera in the intake opening but why not just use something like this and have the filter seal up to the rear spider opening. More of a hybrid of what Howard is planning and the Reverie offering.
 
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Alex, This looks pretty cool. If you remove the scoop (Pics 2 &3) and turn the box around you can work it to fit the angle of the rear glass. Cut a hole in the glass and louver the top of the box. Study it hard enough and you could make one yourself.
Ultima GTR Induction Kits and Airboxes

You could even eliminate a portion of the glass and extend the roof duct down the middle. It would look pretty cool with that section louvered.
 
Great minds think alike!!!

Although louvers would draw air out. a cool snorkel would work. Have you seen the updated Aussie rear glass area? It's solid with 2 big snorkels. Little much for my taste, but cool nonetheless.
 
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