Help! Rear main seal replacement on tight quarters KVA

[Geoff Deakin]

Can anybody offer advice?

I've just bought a KVA (A very nice example).

It was bought knowing it has a weeping rear crank oil seal.

Last night we decided to drop the sump, sort out the rear seal and re-assemble.

Not so easy!

The sump fouls the rear lower crossmember, even though it has been cutaway by 45 degrees on its front face.

We have unbolted the transaxle at the rear and raised it by about 3", pivoting around the engine mounting rubbers. Having first removed the distributor cap!

Not enough.

The next stage is to remove the front pulley and crank damper and raise the transaxle further. We're now almost at the point of removing the hoses around the front of the engine. This seems a bit drastic. Particularly as I understand that the leak may re-occur.

The alternative is to...Cut out the lower rear crossmember, and fabricate a removeable crossmember. This seems even more drastic, just to remove the sump, but would allow it to be done again if necessary.

Are we barking up the wrong tree? - Are we missing something obvious, other than lifting both the engine and 'box from the chassis?

There must be something easier.

Hoping somebody can help.

Cheers,

Geoff - Very frustrated!!

 

[Frank Catt]

Re: Help! - help!

ITS MUCH quicker in the long run just to lift the engine and box out of the car, split the gearbox off and do the seal, you will never get a satisfactory job otherwise and you will always be worryingly looking under the car for the inevitable drips.

 

[Dalton Veitch]

Re: Help! - help!

I've never seen a KVA (none in Australia), but in the old article I have on them, Ken had made a chassis sub-frame in his own car (with the small engine) such that the engine and transmission could be pulled and wheeled away "relatively" easily.

Of course, I realise your main query was to see if you were missing some simple trick that achieved the sump removal.

 

[Howard Jones]

Re: Help! - help!

I agree completely with Frank. Pull the engine/gearbox as a unit , complete work and reinstall as a unit. I have done a clutch by myself in half a day. All done and on the road by mid afternoon. Take off the rear bodywork and set it aside. Then the exhaust. Now you have a clear shot at the engine/GB unit. Rear GB mount bolts, half shafts, motor mounts and the rest like coolant lines, electrical ables, and fuel and you'll have it out in a few hours.

I think you can do a rear main seal faster this way than with engine in car. The other thing is it is much easier to reinstall flywheel, clutch and GB on the shop floor than in the car.

It may seam like more work but it is much easier work. Everything out in the open where you can work on it in a comfortable setting.

 

[Keith]

Re: Help! - help!

Absolutely agree with Frank.
You have probably already spent more time on this than if you had pulled the rear clip off and taken the engine and transaxle out as a unit.
Keith

 

[Robin Little]

Re: Help! - help!

Geoff.
I appologise for not getting back to you about the dashboard but thing have been a bit busy.
I agree totally with method of removing complete engine gearbox unit.
you should be able to remove the rear bodywork and sit it too the side. This will then allow you to remove the crossmember above the gearbox ( Type C) and the driveshafts should come off from the gearbox side at the CV joint. Depending on the type of exhaust you may only need to take the silencer off and leave the headers. after disconnecting a few pipes and cables you should be able to lift the complete unit out. I use a sling and a ratchet strap to to get the angle correct to .

Hope this helps.

 

[Ron Earp]

Re: Help! - help!

A bit of a more descriptive title to threads tends to help preserve the "library" nature of this site. Help help is a bit ambiguous.....

 

[Jac Mac]

Once you get the motor out,be aware that it might be more than just the seal, lack of sealant on F/Wheel bolt threads, incorrect seal installation , dowel pin still fitted if using rubber seal, deformed oil pan etc etc...you wouldnt be the first-or last- to replace the seal without curing the leak..

 

[Geoff Deakin]

My apologies for not replying earlier to all your suggestions.

It WAS easier to remove the whole engine/transaxle assy as a unit.

The seal has been replaced successfully.

It was the first job to be done on my car after I bought it, and it all seemed a bit daunting at the time.

I'm now older and possibly wiser!

Thanks for all your help.

Geoff.

 

[Dalton Veitch]

How is it that all GT40 owners become older and wiser??