Hi I new here

Hi all,
I am looking to order a RCR 40 Mk1 DP kit in a couple of weeks, what do you all suggest as a must get options and why?
as a hint I never leave anything stock always need more power with bettering handeling.
Thanks
Don
 
Hi Don,

Well, congratulations, you'll be very pleased with your RCR.

One introductory comment, there's nothing "stock" about a GT40. As your research has probably highlighted to you, there's no standard formula as to drivetrain, for example. You'll find everything from basic 302 to big bore strokers with every kind of fueling and ignition available, different transaxles, different suspension and brakes, even different dimensions amongst the different GT40s.

If you haven't driven a well set up GT40 with a decent power plant (say something putting out 400/400 or more hp/tq) then you might just revise your thoughts about always needing more. Very few people can actually use any more hp/tq than that in a car that light, unless it's a track car.

It's pretty simple, if you want more hp/tq then go for a bigger engine - stroked 351 is an obvious choice. On the tuning/handling front, it's all about setting up the suspension with some refinement and care. For that you need some fair amount of track time, and some suspension smarts. If you're not particularly savvy with suspension work the drop the money on a tuning expert who will spend a day or two with you setting it all up.

Good luck!
 
Welcome to the forum Don. You won't be disappointed with your choice!
The MK I is my favorite GT40. A stroked 351 or even a 347 would be perfect!
 

Pat

Supporter
Welcome Don,
Decide what you're looking for before you commit to purchase. I'd suggest you spend some time shop engine makers (my 302 is from "The Engine Factory") and I think you can find just about anything you want suited to your taste. A great source is to read through the forum and see what comments others have. For example, if authenic is important, four IDA Webers look so cool but they are a pain in the rump to keep in tune. The electronic injection systems have their merits (and expense). Personally, I just love to drive my car and wanted simple maintenance, so I went with a single 4BBL and Edelbrock manifold and heads. It runs like a 417 HP Swiss watch... ;)
 
Don, I would tend to agree with Veek on this one. A 4bbl carb/edelbrock manifold is not exactly period correct, but will work well at much less expense and it is simple to maintain. IMO, of course!
 

Jim Craik

Lifetime Supporter
Veek,

I agree with you (really), I went with a 302 based Roush, a 342R, Holly 4brl, 450 hp, 425 tq, lighter, quieter, cooler.......25,000 miles, runs just great.

I may be wrong with this, but I think the small blocks have a nicer sound, a little higher pitch, a bit of a howl! When I start it cold, it has a wonderful lump, lump...

More often than not, when I drive up they talk about the sound, even before they ask if it's a Pantera.
 
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Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
....four IDA Webers look so cool but they are a pain in the rump to keep in tune.....

This is something I've always wondered about Webers on V-8s: is that really true or is it a matter of getting them in tune in the first place and then leaving them alone? My impression (from Lamborghini ownership, 40 DCOE x 6) was that if you get them right in the first place (which the factory did), kept them clean and didn't mess with them they were just as stable any other carburation system. ??? The only "tuning" was setting the idle throttle and mixture, and synchronizing them, and those settings didn't change all by themselves.
 
This is something I've always wondered about Webers on V-8s: is that really true or is it a matter of getting them in tune in the first place and then leaving them alone? My impression (from Lamborghini ownership, 40 DCOE x 6) was that if you get them right in the first place (which the factory did), kept them clean and didn't mess with them they were just as stable any other carburation system. ??? The only "tuning" was setting the idle throttle and mixture, and synchronizing them, and those settings didn't change all by themselves.

Alan, I think you're exactly right. Starting with a decent set of webers (matched, no leaky throttle shaft bearings, sync'd/tuned, etc.) and they're pretty reliable. The webers get a bad rap because much of the time the set of four (or six!) that comes with a tired old exotic have been messed with so much (mismatched, mixed up jetting, leaky bearings, poorly sync'd/tuned, etc.) that it's difficult to get them back to a good state without spending a whole bunch of money (which many people don't do).

Personally, the only way I could deal with multiple webers was to educate myself about them in detail, get a keen sense of how to tune them, acquire a nice set of various jets (and gauge) and play with them until it was intuitive how to tune them properly. The alternative - writing a bunch of checks to weber tuning "experts" - had very little appeal to me and I'd choose a 4barrel Holley over that any day.
 
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