How well does the a/c work in these cars?

[JP Sarti]

I am asking as I live in the desert where temps of 112'+ are common.

I have a 512 BB and a 328 which I can't drive in the summer days as the a/c just can't keep up, the 512Bb is hotter as the front screen is bigger and you get heat from the radiator lines and hot air from the radiator into the cockpit.

I would like a Gt that would keep me reasonably cool if possible not another car I can't drive in the daytime in the summer

Thanks

 

[Bill Bayard]

I don't know about 112º, but the temperature is very comfortable in my car

(black interior)when it's 90º+. GT40s have a very small cockpit, yet most

have an A/C system that would cool a much larger car. It helps a lot if the

firewall is insulated, and the coolant pipes are insulated and ceramic coated.



Bill

 

[CliffBeer]

JP, definitely buy a gt40, even if it's only marginal in 112degrees in the cockpit. Why? Because you don't have to pay $500 per dizzy cap and $150 per dizzy rotor! Go to NAPA and get yourself a $15 cap and $8 rotor. I have an '88 Mondial cab which is a great car but I hardly drive it because of the maintenance/parts costs. In contrast, the GT40 I just bought is going to get driven a lot....

Different manufacturers of the GT40 replicas install different AC systems. CAVs have a good reputation for the factory installed AC system so you might want to check them out. There is a CAV dealer in San Diego that will be happy to let you drive and test out the AC.

 

[Matt F]

Don't give up on the Ferraris yet; the A/C system is about the only thing on them that isn't expensive. They're common York components, and could likely be upgraded. Another option is switching to Sanden compressors and getting bigger evaporators.

As you point out, the radiator coolant doesn't help. A little more insulation can really help.

Both steps are reversable if originality is important to you, or to future owners.

--Matt

 

[JCoop]

The CAV A/C is very efficient; unfortunately, the wiring isn't (in early cars, I'm told). Having the A/C on for 1.5 hours in 95 deg (ambient on the road) made my ignition switch untouchable. I was very comfortable during the trip but almost burned my thigh when I shut down and put the keys in my pocket

With help from knowlegeable guys in this forum, I've traced the problem and will have to change some wires to handle the amperage draw and such.

 

[Ron Earp]

They should be okay and with a good compressor and good condenser located in the airflow. Some CAVs, and the GTDs they were patterned after, seemed to have the condensor located in the engine compartment which didn't seem logical to me. I imagine they can work fine though, obviously since folks say they work great. But I've also heard that relocation to the front can improve them and some GT40 companies put the condenser out front the get go.

Ron

 

[Howard Jones]

As in all things, one thing leads to another, On and On and On. If I were to start from a clean sheet of paper I would do the following.

1. Put in the most effective water (coolant) radiator that would fit in the car, DAMN THE COST!!!

2. I would install a high quality oil cooler and install it in the air flow AT THE REAR OF THE CAR.

3. When selecting a condenser, I would buy one that is roughly the same square inches as the radiator and install it in front of the radiator in the nose of the car.

4. Select a evaporator/blower unit that is designed to cool a area about twice the size of a GT40. OR AS BIG AS WILL FIT.

5. Use only a 134a system.

6. A Sanden SD7 is a good compact compressor.

All of this is about getting the heat out of the cabin. No other car except some limited production prototypes exhaust hot air from the radiator directly into the windshield like a GT40. This is a very big deal and must be considered. Very few cars are rear engine and therefor have very little cool air flow over the engine. This is a big part of the water cooling problems in GT40's. Do everything you can to cool the engine. Big oil cooler, radiator etc. On top of this we run the coolant lines either inside of the cabin or along side it adding more heat load. INSULATION, INSULATION, INSULATION!!!! Best materials you can find. This is not a area to save money.


A GT40 can be made to run cool, both engine and driver but a half ass cooling system (either AC or water) will only waste money. Time spent on research in this area will well spent.

See Vintage Air website for a lot of good information.

http//.www.vintageair.com

 

[Mark Worthington]

Hershal Byrd is in Phoenix and I'm pretty sure he drives his car in the summer and I think I recall him posting that the air blew cold and that the cabin was very comfortable. I've insulated some of the cabin panels in my GT40 not only to keep heat out but to keep noise out as well.