IDing Uprights on Early Cars
- Thread starter Hoota Caroota
- Start date
Pat
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If they have square mounting blocks to the ball joint, they are original. The first picture is original CAV, the other two, Ian's. The latter have a round shape to them. If you don't have them, they really are a wise purchase. My car handled much better and the bump steer was eliminated.
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Hi John,
Here's a few pics of the different uprights used on CAV GTs since we've been involved starting in 2003. You should be able to distinguish between the various factory parts and our steel fabricated parts quite easily. Hope this helps.
The first 100 cars were built from components designed by and supplied to Cape Advanced Vehicles, hence the name CAV. From 100 onwards the new cars have signifigant improvements as made by Autofutura.
Whilst there are several documented events of upright failures resulting loss of steering or drive on the pre 100 cars, the later cars have much more robust parts so this should not be a worry.
Early in the game we decided some strengthening of the stock cast or billet uprights would solve the problem. We supplied new one peice billet steel mounting blocks for the rear uprights along with our monoball lower reversed a-arms. That solved the bending of bent lower pins and cracking the upright castings at the mounting bolts. Also eliminated shims to set the toe in.
We also issued an upgrade kit and proceedure to reinforce the stock front uprights after experiencing a front lower balljoint mount failure at Mosport in turn four. Anyone familiar with Mosport can well imagine how hair raising that was. This solved the ball joint mounts working loose and shearing the through bolts.
All of this is covered in old threads by the way.
Identifying Uprights:
Fronts - early pre 100 have two bolt upper and lower balljoint mounting blocks, late pre 100 have three bolt upper balljoint mounting blocks and shorter upper a-arms, post 100 have three bolt upper balljoint mounts, a steel bolt on steering arm along with shorter again upper a-arms.
Rears - all pre 100 have a bolt on mounting block assembly for the lower clevis pin, all post 100 cars have a one peice cast upright - no bolt on blocks, also a taller top section which the upper lateral links attach to (see pics)
The kits to strengthen the stock uprights were discontinued as we moved into making complete new parts. I wasn't satisfied with the handling, steering response or brakes, the fix required new suspension geometry so back in 2005 we started producing our own parts, which did (and still do) meet all objectives.
Many many CAVs including 1 post 100 car have been fitted with our parts. I know you're looking to buy a used CAV GT so if you come across one of the upgraded cars grab it, the works been done and money spent. It's a tremendously better car. Be prepared to hand over a few more sheckles too, you get what you pay for...
Cheers
Here's a few pics of the different uprights used on CAV GTs since we've been involved starting in 2003. You should be able to distinguish between the various factory parts and our steel fabricated parts quite easily. Hope this helps.
The first 100 cars were built from components designed by and supplied to Cape Advanced Vehicles, hence the name CAV. From 100 onwards the new cars have signifigant improvements as made by Autofutura.
Whilst there are several documented events of upright failures resulting loss of steering or drive on the pre 100 cars, the later cars have much more robust parts so this should not be a worry.
Early in the game we decided some strengthening of the stock cast or billet uprights would solve the problem. We supplied new one peice billet steel mounting blocks for the rear uprights along with our monoball lower reversed a-arms. That solved the bending of bent lower pins and cracking the upright castings at the mounting bolts. Also eliminated shims to set the toe in.
We also issued an upgrade kit and proceedure to reinforce the stock front uprights after experiencing a front lower balljoint mount failure at Mosport in turn four. Anyone familiar with Mosport can well imagine how hair raising that was. This solved the ball joint mounts working loose and shearing the through bolts.
All of this is covered in old threads by the way.
Identifying Uprights:
Fronts - early pre 100 have two bolt upper and lower balljoint mounting blocks, late pre 100 have three bolt upper balljoint mounting blocks and shorter upper a-arms, post 100 have three bolt upper balljoint mounts, a steel bolt on steering arm along with shorter again upper a-arms.
Rears - all pre 100 have a bolt on mounting block assembly for the lower clevis pin, all post 100 cars have a one peice cast upright - no bolt on blocks, also a taller top section which the upper lateral links attach to (see pics)
The kits to strengthen the stock uprights were discontinued as we moved into making complete new parts. I wasn't satisfied with the handling, steering response or brakes, the fix required new suspension geometry so back in 2005 we started producing our own parts, which did (and still do) meet all objectives.
Many many CAVs including 1 post 100 car have been fitted with our parts. I know you're looking to buy a used CAV GT so if you come across one of the upgraded cars grab it, the works been done and money spent. It's a tremendously better car. Be prepared to hand over a few more sheckles too, you get what you pay for...
Cheers
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Veek, thanks for the feedback on the handling, really thanks a lot.
Although these parts are promoted as performance upgrades, the added strength is a peace of mind thing. Even Dave Briggs car that went into a tree at something around 40mph (direct hit to the right front suspension) did not break our upright.
It takes a lot of time, and ungodly expensive scrapped test parts, to arrive at the finished product, it`s great to hear back on the actual driving experience, that`s what these cars are all about.
Cheers
Although these parts are promoted as performance upgrades, the added strength is a peace of mind thing. Even Dave Briggs car that went into a tree at something around 40mph (direct hit to the right front suspension) did not break our upright.
It takes a lot of time, and ungodly expensive scrapped test parts, to arrive at the finished product, it`s great to hear back on the actual driving experience, that`s what these cars are all about.
Cheers
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