Installing the engine after the body is completed

[Bill D]

My car is almost done
The engine is built and ready to install

Here is the dilema:
RBT still is rebuilding my ZF after almost a year. Lloyd said he was starting to assemble it in October. Then he said he needed a part. That was the last I heard from him. He doesn't return my calls so I have no idea what is going on.

Now I'm faced with having to install the engine and transaxle after the car is painted. Will I be able do the installation without having to remove the roll bar and spider?

I'm not at all happy with the way RBT does business and can not recommend them based on my experience.

Bill

 

[Jeff Hamilton]

The motor and trans will go right in.
Jeff Hamilton

 

[Bill D]

Thanks Jeff. I wanted to install everything before I get the body so I can see if my AC compressor is going to fit. But with RBT ignoring me, I won't have that option. I'll have to do it all afterwards.

 

[David Briggs]

I have had an RBT on order since march for a customers car. Lloyd does not follow up and will not call back. I spoke with his partner in Texas and he says I am on track to get my gearbox in January. They apparently continue to take orders but are only able to complete a few transaxles/mo. Hopefully the new ZFQ will be ready soon and if I can't get the RBT by then I will switch over to one of those. I have had this new car in my shop since June and would love to see it running and on its way home.
There are probably about a 100 of us waiting for an RBT.
Dave

 

[Bill D]

That sucks Dave. I already had a ZF and needed it rebuilt. I will never recommend RBT. NEVER!!!!!!!!!

I may have to buy a second transaxle (ZFQ) and then sell my ZF if RBT ever finishes it.

 

[Dean Lampe]

Don't get to stressed about setting the engine in after the paint. It really won't be a problem. How about some pictures of this paint job in progress?

 

[Bill D]

Dean
I wish I could, but the painter is 457 miles away.

 

[MReid]

Bill,

Is the ZFQ now available?

 

[Bill D]

Not sure

 

[Martin]

Bill,
I also had no good experiences with RBT.
In the last six month I send a lot of e-mail and fax to RBT for an offer. No answer until now. I will boycot them, because I dont want becoming an RBT-slave.
:dead:
I need the transaxle urgend, because I can´t make the suspension and the shaft drives.
If Chris Melia will deliever the first batch of a ZFQ in January 08, I will make my order. If not, I mean the Mendeola Model SDR is an good choice too.
ALL NEW SDR TRANSAXLE!!!

Martin

 

[Pat Buckley]

Bill,
If I recall correctly your car is in the Yuba City area getting painted? If so, I will be travelling through there later this month and would be glad to take some pictures for you.
Pat

 

[Bill D]

That's OK Pat. It's suppose to be done in another week

 

[Jeff Leaver]

Bill, I am new to this site but wish I joined about 12 years ago when I started to build my car.I have had lots of hot rods with lots of HP before and if I realised that helical cut gear trans axels suck for having to much torque I might not of built this type of car. My opinion ,after fighting to keep my transaxel togather for years ,is they cannot with stand close to 600 ft lbs of torque on a road race track. I'm sure it,s my fault for having that much torque ,but there is nothing better than having your hands just about ripped off the steering wheel coming on to a streight away.I to have an RBT. And have had many delays from them. He is a small co. and a nice guy but probly has to much work and not enough employees.I have had my trans rebuilt at pantera performance in CO. and RBT. Pantera performance was much faster. My trans axel lasted two years without problems on the race track. Now it starts leaking oil out the front seal after three days of track time. I beleive that the case is worn out and causes the input shaft to whip and wearout the pilot bushing in the crank
I have dail indicated the bell housing numerous times and it is within .003. I am thinking about dumping it for something different and stronger ? If its not to late you should concider somthing different than a zf if you are going to have lots of HP and torque. Just my opinion.

 

[MReid]

Bill, I'm really sorry to hear about the delay in getting your ZF together. This seems like a saga that has gone on forever! I am waiting on mine, from Dennis at Pantera Performance, but it should be any day now. I don't see why you couldn't put the engine/transaxle in without removing the rear clip. You just need to be careful and use an engine tilter for better control. Have a great New Year!

 

[Howard Jones]

I have had my transaxle out at least a dozen times. I have always removed the rear clip to do this. I sincerely believe that this is the only way to do the job and NOT hurt the paint.

The main reason for this is the job really needs to be aproched from the rear and then the gearbox is pulled out the back. It's not really a up and down job as it is fore and aft.

The last couple of times I had the transaxle out I just pulled the entire power-train out as a package. I have gotten to the point that the only help I need is pulling the rear clip off and carefully placing it up against the wall and then and putting it back on after all else is done.

I place a couple of squares of 2" thick foam on the floor and set it upright on them, license plate down.

 

[J. Salmon]

I am getting ready to order mine, and the paint will be done when it comes to me. Fran has said that it is perfectly OK to do all the remaining work after the bodywork and paint.

I think he's on vacation, or he probably would have chimed in by now. (I am waiting to write the big check!)

 

[J. Salmon]

Oops, double post.

 

[Bill Musarra]

Howard is correct. The clip should be removed first. Makes everything so much easier. I have taken my power train out and in at least 20 times during the build, and all after the paint. getting the clip off is a piece of cake, and I do it all by myself. All you need is an engine hoist and the cloth tie down staps. I tie two of them together, wrap around the clip through the wheel wells, and position at the front of the top body vent. That is the balance point for me. Yours will vary depanding on what method you are using for a rear pivot. Don't use the engine leveler here as you will be balancing too much when you hook it all up and that will cause scratches. Lift to the point the front of the clip starts to raise. Undo the rear support members and continue to lift. If the body tends to tilt forward or back, lower and reposition the straps. Then roll it all back and place where it is away from all the activity.
The power train when being installed is just a careful operation. Check every inch or two. Going in straight from the back is the only way to install or remove. Line of sight is much better, and easier to judge. For me using an iron block, the attachment points are the front of the head on one side and the opposite side for the tran's axel stub.On installing, as it approaches the spider top, use the leveler to tip the nose down and advance. It is like putting a foot in a shoe.

Bill