What he said...
Jack stands vs lifts
- Thread starter CamT
- Start date
What he said...
Does anyone have any experience with a single column mobile lift?
https://www.eagleequip.com/product/MobileMan.html
Eagle, and other make them. 6000lbs weight limit. The small form-factor and mobility are a big plus to me.
https://www.eagleequip.com/product/MobileMan.html
Eagle, and other make them. 6000lbs weight limit. The small form-factor and mobility are a big plus to me.
May a diseased Yak 'squat' in your GT40...
Mike
Lifetime Supporter
I like this idea a lot other than the 5" minimum height. Now I still have to get the jack under the car and lift up onto 2x4s before I could get the jack under the car.
Mike,
True.
I'd have to do the same for several of my cars if they weren't running. Otherwise, I'd just drive them up some 2x6 pads to get clearance. Not a big deal, and not a deal-breaker. I have several cars on or going onto rotisseries for restoration, and this seems like a really easy way to get them on and off. Then, I can just push the lift out of the way. Especially nice when its time for paint...no lift to work around.
I know that there are some four-post lifts that can be pushed around, but they take up a lot of space, and I don't really need the extra parking. There are also two-post lifts that can be temporarily bolted to the floor, and moved fairly easily, but they are just as expensive, and don't really have any advantages over these single-posters.
Just wondered if anyone had actually used one, and what they thought.
True.
I'd have to do the same for several of my cars if they weren't running. Otherwise, I'd just drive them up some 2x6 pads to get clearance. Not a big deal, and not a deal-breaker. I have several cars on or going onto rotisseries for restoration, and this seems like a really easy way to get them on and off. Then, I can just push the lift out of the way. Especially nice when its time for paint...no lift to work around.
I know that there are some four-post lifts that can be pushed around, but they take up a lot of space, and I don't really need the extra parking. There are also two-post lifts that can be temporarily bolted to the floor, and moved fairly easily, but they are just as expensive, and don't really have any advantages over these single-posters.
Just wondered if anyone had actually used one, and what they thought.
Sub'ing to this thread. I've contemplated the same thing about all the different types of lifts and now that I'm fixing to order the SLC I need to buckle down and figure it out. I have the room for any of them, 2000sqft shop with 2 front 14x14 front roll ups. As of now the right side bay is and always has been dedicated to the future SLC....just not sure if I want a lift there since it'll become the SLC permanent parking spot when it's finished.
My SLC's parking spot has always been nestled between the two columns of a 2-post asymmetrical lift. It's been there since I got it many years ago as a kit, and now that it's finished, it still parks there.
I still think a good asymmetrical 2-post with a clear bottom is a great choice for a car that will be worked on, and later parked. I would choose the same thing again if I had to make the choice again.
IMO, a 4-post has too many obstructions when you are working on the car, a single-post sacrifices working space on the post side, and jack stands have already tried to kill me once.
I decided last night that a lift was required. I think a jack and jacks stands can work, but I don't like the way you have to lift a single corner of the car really high (relative to the other corners) just to get the first one in. Using 2 jacks on the front to get two corners up at the same time would make me feel more comfortable, but I'm not going to do that.
So I ordered a quickjack 5000 last night
A few of my thoughts and a photo here: https://superlitesite.wordpress.com/2016/12/07/initial-thoughts/
So I ordered a quickjack 5000 last night
A few of my thoughts and a photo here: https://superlitesite.wordpress.com/2016/12/07/initial-thoughts/
<FIGCAPTION class=wp-caption-text>"Ellie’s not sure using the front end as a slide is a good idea …"
...and the look on her face conveys that very thought!
What a CUTE kid!!! :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:
Both photos of her are priceless...
</FIGCAPTION>
My SLC's parking spot has always been nestled between the two columns of a 2-post asymmetrical lift. It's been there since I got it many years ago as a kit, and now that it's finished, it still parks there.
I still think a good asymmetrical 2-post with a clear bottom is a great choice for a car that will be worked on, and later parked. I would choose the same thing again if I had to make the choice again.
IMO, a 4-post has too many obstructions when you are working on the car, a single-post sacrifices working space on the post side, and jack stands have already tried to kill me once.
Sorry I should have explained a little more. A lift would be good there, but I would need the lift some where else, mainly because I'm lazy and don't want to have to move the SLC out of the way every time to change oil or use it. I could put it in my main bay, maybe a little bit forward (40ft deep) and that'll be the dedicated build spot and the right bay will be reserved for other stuff and eventually SLC's home.
Sounds like from everyone, 2 post is the best option and I agree. I have no clue if this is feasible, but can the main body be lifted off the car with the lift? Maybe with additional supports for body? I'd like this to be more/less a 1 person build as we live kind of far out from family/friends and would hate to inconvenience them to pull body off/on.
Have you checked out the wiki? There is a section about lifts, etc here.
Also, the manual shows lift points as well, IIRC.
I use the angled 2X2 in the rear, and position the front arms to run along the 45 degree edge of wheelhouse.
Hope you enjoy the lift- I was just talking to another SL-C owner today about lifts!
I've assembled my quickjack and have used it a few times now. The lift works great and I'm quite pleased with the purchase. Agree with the majority - a lift is definitely the way to go.
Some more thoughts here:
https://superlitesite.wordpress.com/2016/12/12/6-its-alive/
Observation - with the suspension at full droop the tires contact the front clam bodywork. Will this improve once the body is actually positioned? Additionally, the rear suspension pushroad contacts the upper a-arm at full droop, normal or just needs adjustment? I've not aligned the car or adjusted the body at this point, just raised it up after initial delivery so who knows where the suspension is currently set.
Some more thoughts here:
https://superlitesite.wordpress.com/2016/12/12/6-its-alive/
Observation - with the suspension at full droop the tires contact the front clam bodywork. Will this improve once the body is actually positioned? Additionally, the rear suspension pushroad contacts the upper a-arm at full droop, normal or just needs adjustment? I've not aligned the car or adjusted the body at this point, just raised it up after initial delivery so who knows where the suspension is currently set.
Hello, I have my chassis on a build trolley at the moment but as I am building I am adding more weight to the chassis, just starting to think how I am going to get it off the trolley when the wheels are on its going to be too heavy to lift manually so I am thinking
Jack up the back with a trolley jack and then use stands to lift the back off the trolley, then jack up the front slide out the trolley then lower
I need some sort of bar to go through the lift hooks at the front and ideas for something here in the UK
Thanks
Jack up the back with a trolley jack and then use stands to lift the back off the trolley, then jack up the front slide out the trolley then lower
I need some sort of bar to go through the lift hooks at the front and ideas for something here in the UK
Thanks
Howard Jones
Supporter
Get one of these: I have had a similar one that came from Harbor freight for years now and although it is heavy I can slide it under both the GT40 and my SLC without any other preliminary wood etc. I run my SLC at 3 1/2 " front and 4 " rear ride height. This is very low! and the jack still works! Great shop jack! I think I could run the car as low as 3 inches at the nose and it would still work
www.summitracing.com
I also am always taking the car apart and doing stuff. I have found that maybe near 100% of the work I do is best done sitting on the tires, sitting on jack stands without tires at near ride height, or on my wooden roll arounds. They allow the car to be put on them with the tires on and still have enough clearance under the car to lay on my back and do the limited amount of things that need to be done under the car.
A long time ago I took a set of jack stands and permanently set their height by bolting the sliding tube to the outside tube with a through-hole and bolt. Much safer and usable. The third picture shows the car sitting on the bespoke jack stands and the roll arounds parked under the car. They are not supporting any weight.
So I have room for a lift but I just don't think I would use it except to drain fluids. I would however if I did, pick a lift system that allows you to remove the suspension parts, wheels, springs, brake rotors, pads, etc. by supporting the car by the chassis. A four-poster would be of no use for me other than a place to park another car.
Here's another that is also 23/4" clearance cheaper but not as deep a reach
www.summitracing.com
Sunex 6602LP Sunex Tools 2 Ton Lowrider Service Jacks | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Sunex Tools 2 Ton Lowrider Service Jacks with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Jacks at Summit Racing.
I also am always taking the car apart and doing stuff. I have found that maybe near 100% of the work I do is best done sitting on the tires, sitting on jack stands without tires at near ride height, or on my wooden roll arounds. They allow the car to be put on them with the tires on and still have enough clearance under the car to lay on my back and do the limited amount of things that need to be done under the car.
A long time ago I took a set of jack stands and permanently set their height by bolting the sliding tube to the outside tube with a through-hole and bolt. Much safer and usable. The third picture shows the car sitting on the bespoke jack stands and the roll arounds parked under the car. They are not supporting any weight.
So I have room for a lift but I just don't think I would use it except to drain fluids. I would however if I did, pick a lift system that allows you to remove the suspension parts, wheels, springs, brake rotors, pads, etc. by supporting the car by the chassis. A four-poster would be of no use for me other than a place to park another car.
Here's another that is also 23/4" clearance cheaper but not as deep a reach
Performance Tool W1642 Performance Tool Low-Profile Service Jacks | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Performance Tool Low-Profile Service Jacks with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Jacks at Summit Racing.
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