Boris Bonder
Boris T
Hi James,
are you selling any of the steering wheel centers? If so,
I would be interessted.
All the best, Boris
are you selling any of the steering wheel centers? If so,
I would be interessted.
All the best, Boris
Jimmymac & Alistair's Monocoque Cars
- Thread starter JIMMYMAC
- Start date
Davidmgbv8
Supporter
So I contacted Bob Mullen and he said he is unable to convert the CAV ampere gauge to a volt meter, FYI
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
Hi Boris
We are out in the market for some vacuum foil and painting work to do on them so not at the moment.
Davidmgbv8
Supporter
Really like that blue. Please remind me the purpose of the blisters on the nose above the radiator corners.
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
Well apparently it was relatively easy to convert a CAV ammeter to a voltmeter.
Last weekend my mate Paul Hendrickx asked me to help him with this idea so I dismantled one converted voltmeter and a second factory made CAV voltmeter. I gave Paul the two resistance values and he had succeeded in getting a reasonable reading from his CAV unit conversion by adding the correct value resistor to the circuit.
Don't ask me for the kOhm values as these two units gave me different resistances using an accurate Fluke multimeter and I think it will depended upon the sweep of the meter used.
Note these were 0 to +ve meters and the CAV discharge / charge meters as in battery condition units might be wired differently.
Last weekend my mate Paul Hendrickx asked me to help him with this idea so I dismantled one converted voltmeter and a second factory made CAV voltmeter. I gave Paul the two resistance values and he had succeeded in getting a reasonable reading from his CAV unit conversion by adding the correct value resistor to the circuit.
Don't ask me for the kOhm values as these two units gave me different resistances using an accurate Fluke multimeter and I think it will depended upon the sweep of the meter used.
Note these were 0 to +ve meters and the CAV discharge / charge meters as in battery condition units might be wired differently.
As long as you've gone this far why not convert it to an "expanded scale" voltmeter"? Simply put a 10V Zener diode (or better yet, a 2-terminal voltage reference) in series with a different value of series resistor. You will have a reading of 10v to say, 15V giving you much better scale for reading your battery voltage.
Paul Hendrickx
Supporter
Google is still your friend when in need....
this explains quite well what needs to be done to change ammeter in to volt meter
while I received only this morning my cav ammeter ,so il will start calculations and see how much fumes I can produce with short circuit....when I test
Paul
this explains quite well what needs to be done to change ammeter in to volt meter
while I received only this morning my cav ammeter ,so il will start calculations and see how much fumes I can produce with short circuit....when I test
Paul
Paul Hendrickx
Supporter
wanted to say how much smoke I will produce with my short circuits sometime I use franglais....
Ole Nylende
Supporter
What type did you buy? Been looking into the same but alot to choose from.
At work we have been hiring a romer absolute arm, but that is a bit out of my league cost wise.
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
Please don't treat this as any form of recommendation - do your own homework.
You do know this, but it depends upon which subject you want to scan and how good your computer hardware is.
We already have an Einscan HX? blue light type - about the size of 90s mobile phone
It's great for bigger stuff like a bellhousing or a wheel casting.
Today I got a little Revopoint MINI for smaller close up stuff. It is another much smaller blue light unit but claims to be more accurate, and also handheld. The package is delivered fully accessorised as a kit including an inclined rotary table and a steady hand tripod.
The unit is only about the size of my Leica camera and on my first venture without a micrometer I used one to make axis machining files for the barbs on these plumbing fittings.
The files for those plastic wiper parts have also gone for prototype printing.
As a result and I did have to think long about it, but now I need to dispose of my hydraulic draughting board after 50 years and play with TurboCad.
There is a lad up the road from me making a 1:8 model of my car using a metal body shell from the Dagistini GT40 kit as the basis. The rest is 3D work.
Ryan knows all about this stuff as he let me have a beautiful scan of his 302 short block recently.
You do know this, but it depends upon which subject you want to scan and how good your computer hardware is.
We already have an Einscan HX? blue light type - about the size of 90s mobile phone
It's great for bigger stuff like a bellhousing or a wheel casting.Today I got a little Revopoint MINI for smaller close up stuff. It is another much smaller blue light unit but claims to be more accurate, and also handheld. The package is delivered fully accessorised as a kit including an inclined rotary table and a steady hand tripod.
The unit is only about the size of my Leica camera and on my first venture without a micrometer I used one to make axis machining files for the barbs on these plumbing fittings.
The files for those plastic wiper parts have also gone for prototype printing.
As a result and I did have to think long about it, but now I need to dispose of my hydraulic draughting board after 50 years and play with TurboCad.
There is a lad up the road from me making a 1:8 model of my car using a metal body shell from the Dagistini GT40 kit as the basis. The rest is 3D work.
Ryan knows all about this stuff as he let me have a beautiful scan of his 302 short block recently.
Ed McClements
Supporter
Please don't treat this as any form of recommendation - do your own homework.
You do know this, but it depends upon which subject you want to scan and how good your computer hardware is.
We already have an Einscan HX? blue light type - about the size of 90s mobile phone
Today I got a little Revopoint MINI for smaller close up stuff. It is another much smaller blue light unit but claims to be more accurate, and also handheld. The package is delivered fully accessorised as a kit including an inclined rotary table and a steady hand tripod.
The unit is only about the size of my Leica camera and on my first venture without a micrometer I used one to make axis machining files for the barbs on these plumbing fittings.
The files for those plastic wiper parts have also gone for prototype printing.
As a result and I did have to think long about it, but now I need to dispose of my hydraulic draughting board after 50 years and play with TurboCad.
View attachment 125992
There is a lad up the road from me making a 1:8 model of my car using a metal body shell from the Dagistini GT40 kit as the basis. The rest is 3D work.
Ryan knows all about this stuff as he let me have a beautiful scan of his 302 short block recently.
View attachment 125993
You have blown my tiny mind! I had no idea that this type of technology was available for less than the cost of a Gigafactory. Looking forward to future posts showcasing what can be achieved. Thanks.
Doc Watson
Lifetime Supporter
I have a set of 66 289 heads and we also have a scanner at work.... do you need it digitized Jimmy?
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
Eddie
I won't be doing much of this stuff on here as it is our build log.
I might set up a thread elsewhere on the forums if folks are interested, but there are some young fellas far more skilled than I doing this work quietly on here and on the web.
Here is an appetiser for you, a screenshot from a digital file made by Ryan. I am having this file 3D printed in aluminium at 1/8th scale for the toy model.
Andrew
I also have a few heads and covers about here which I will scan when I get time. Thanks so much for the offer.
There are some 1:8 resin 3D prints of complete 289s engines out there but none that I can see have the correct GT40 rocker covers.
My plan is to learn more about this skill and practise by scanning all of the the original GT40 castings including the 4-bolt bellhousing, distributor and alternator bracket for full size CAD modelling, although my other motivator is to record measurements from some very special musical instrument carved tops for my luthier hobby.
I won't be doing much of this stuff on here as it is our build log.
I might set up a thread elsewhere on the forums if folks are interested, but there are some young fellas far more skilled than I doing this work quietly on here and on the web.
Here is an appetiser for you, a screenshot from a digital file made by Ryan. I am having this file 3D printed in aluminium at 1/8th scale for the toy model.
Andrew
I also have a few heads and covers about here which I will scan when I get time. Thanks so much for the offer.
There are some 1:8 resin 3D prints of complete 289s engines out there but none that I can see have the correct GT40 rocker covers.
My plan is to learn more about this skill and practise by scanning all of the the original GT40 castings including the 4-bolt bellhousing, distributor and alternator bracket for full size CAD modelling, although my other motivator is to record measurements from some very special musical instrument carved tops for my luthier hobby.
Chris Kouba
Supporter
Oh james you got to make it a running motor ,your good at doing the seemingly impossible
Any details about the P numbers you'r using for both these GT40's as you'r are building them closer to perfection the SPF will ever be and they seem to continue the P numbering.
