Joel’s SL-C Build Thread

[Jim B.]

I went with the boss intake which has tons of room to reverse. I had to extend the MAF connector and didnt want to cut the wiring. I found this as cheap extender, I just had to shave off a small part of plastic. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097SK52QC
I have the RCR Fuel system and I am working on the layout. I have 2 different diagrams I found in these forums. There are a couple main differences and I was wondering which is correct.
1. one uses the low pressure pump(Bosch) from the main tank the other uses the high pressure pump (Walbro) and then the opposite for the pump to the fuel rail. I assumed the high pressure pump would feed the fuel rail but....
2. one has the filter before the pump

 

[Joel K]

This post covers finishing up the fuel tank area. These are the items on the Fuel tank punch list...

1. Fabricate side L-brackets for the front fuel tank close out panel
2. Split the close out panel into two sections
3. Make clearance holes for the fuel sender
4. Make clearance hole for EVAP vent tube
5. Cut out access hole for shifter cable conduit in the fuel tank
6. Add Damplifier and Dynaliner

Most SLC builds have side L-brackets to seal and secure the sides of the front fuel tank close out panel. My kit did not have them already in place so mounted them on top of the panel vs. underneath like others I have seen. Pic of the passenger side L-bracket installed…

Back on post #419 I designed a fuel tank access panel which allows the removal of the fuel tank while leaving the interior tub in place. There is enough room to remove the fuel tank, but not enough to remove the close out panel with the interior tub in place. So decided to split the front fuel tank area close out panel in two sections to allow it to be removed. Pic of the split fuel tank area close out panel…

Due to the way I designed the rear close out panel and the thickness of the silicone rubber pads placed under and behind the fuel tank, the top of the fuel sender interferes with the close out panel. Simply had to cut a rectangular hole to clear it.

Also, the way the front close out panel is delivered by RCR there is no pre-drilled access hole for the shifter cables. So drilled a hole for a grommet and cut a small channel which will allow the removal of the panel while leaving the shifter cables in place…

The last hole is to provide clearance for the EVAP Vent tube. It just didn’t fit under the close out panel so not a big deal and just cut a clearance hole…

Any excuse to use the mill and machine up a couple caps for the clearance holes…

Added a panel joiner and decided to use the same large grommet used for the electrical harnesses to protect the shifter cables…

Applied some Damplifier Pro to the fuel tank. Was thinking about forgoing this step in case the tank sprung a leak and needs repair. Turns out, WD-40 is very effective at releasing the butyl rubber from metal so shouldn’t be too difficult taking a piece or two off to weld the tank. Pic of the tank with the Damplifier Pro applied…

Last pic of the completed fuel tank system before it gets covered up and hopefully never to be seen again…

Applied Dynaliner on the rear side of the close out panel and added Damplifier Pro and Dynaliner to the front of the the panel…

Pic of Damplifier Pro, I like to leave a border so the Dynaliner can attach to the aluminum on the edges…

Finished fuel tank area front cover panel, probably add Dynaliner to the clearance caps…

A ton of work and planning, glad to move on. The fuel and EVAP systems are officially done!

 

[Joel K]

I went with the boss intake which has tons of room to reverse. I had to extend the MAF connector and didnt want to cut the wiring. I found this as cheap extender, I just had to shave off a small part of plastic. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097SK52QC
I have the RCR Fuel system and I am working on the layout. I have 2 different diagrams I found in these forums. There are a couple main differences and I was wondering which is correct.
1. one uses the low pressure pump(Bosch) from the main tank the other uses the high pressure pump (Walbro) and then the opposite for the pump to the fuel rail. I assumed the high pressure pump would feed the fuel rail but....
2. one has the filter before the pump

Jim,

Good looking intake. I can’t help you with the fuel system setup. My setup is very different. Lots of different configs people use. If you bought the RCR System I would shoot Bill an email and see what he recommends.

 

[Jim B.]

Joel, I am so sorry, I thought I was posting on my build thread
I have your thread open for reference so much I accidently posted on yours. I dont see a way to delete it, sorry again

 

[Joel K]

Joel, I am so sorry, I thought I was posting on my build thread
I have your thread open for reference so much I accidently posted on yours. I dont see a way to delete it, sorry again

No worries Jim

 

[Joel K]

The SLC is a cool ride and I hope the AC system will blow “Cold As Ice” with a leak free system…

This post covers crimping the AC Hoses. I debated bringing the hoses to an AC shop, but was concerned they would not be clocked properly so purchased a hydraulic crimping tool from Amazon.

This brand is called ISOBAD, but looks like the same product is sold under various brands. Anyway, it was relatively inexpensive at $115. It comes with all the die sizes you need and a hose cutter which worked really well…

I applied a light coat of grease on each ferule to help the crimper work consistently. Seemed to work very well. The crimps are even and well defined. Close up of a #6 hose crimp…

Evaporator #6 and #10 hoses crimped…

The #6 hose connecting the drier to the evaporator was a little tricky. When you Crimp the hoses it tends to increase the length by about an 1/8”. So to make this hose, I crimped one side then cut it so it was 1/8” shorter than needed and it worked out perfect. It took two tries…

Compressor #8 and #10 hoses crimped…

#8 and #10 rear hoses which connect to bulkhead fittings crimped…

#10 front hose connecting to bulkhead fitting crimped…

#8 front hose connected to the bulkhead fitting crimped…

To my eye, all these crimps look really good. Fingers crossed the system is leak free! That was actually a fun task.

 

[Joel K]

Finally at the point of installing the electrical components. This thread shows the approach taken to install the battery cables, fuse blocks, and grounding cables.

Here is a video on the process…
Superlite SL-C Build 111 - Master Fuse and Power Cable Install

The battery is installed on the driver side rear of the chassis. The idea was to keep it as close to the starter as possible to insure maximum current and avoid hard starting of a hot engine. Pic of the battery install…

I wanted to have independent fuses for the starter, alternator and the master fuse block in the passenger compartment. The master fuse block will supply power to the PDM and other non-switched components. Here is a diagram of the fuse layout..

Space is always at a premium. Found this clever Blue Sea Systems bus bar fuse block for Marine Rated Battery Fuses(MRBF). It’s compact and has a transparent cover to visually inspect the fuses.

For power distribution to various outputs I am using the AIM Solid State Power Distribution Module. It can distribute a maximum of 120 AMPs across 32 outputs. There are a handful of components which require high current and wanted them not to go through the PDM. For this I needed a master fuse block.

I found a nice and compact master fuse block from Littelfuse PN #880073. It’s has 3 MIDI Fuses and 4 Blade fuses and is rated for 350 Amps.

Pic of the fuse blocks and labels for each fuse…

Now time to assemble the power and ground cables. Here is a list of the supplies used:
AMZCNC Hydraulic Crimping Tool and Cable Cutter - Amazon
Mega Lugs - CE Auto Electric Supply
Flexible Battery Cable - CE Auto Electric Supply
Extra Thick Heat Shrink Hose - CE Auto Electric Supply
Rubber Boot Ends - CE Auto Electric Supply
3/8” battery cable bulkhead - CE Auto Electric Supply

Fabricated a bracket and mounted the Blue Sea fuse block above the battery. It’s easily accessible in this location…

Here are the fuse ratings and wire gauges used:
1)Starter - 300 AMP, 2 gauge wire
2)Alternator - 200 AMP, 2 gauge wire
3)Master Fuse Block - 250 AMP, 1/0 gauge wire

To power the master fuse block, ran a positive cable from the Blue Sea MRBF block to a bulkhead located on the driver side interior tub close out panel…

Pic from inside of the chassis. Cable connects the bulkhead to the master fuse block…

The fuse block gets mounted to the upper driver side chassis. Selected this spot to keep the cables hidden from view and it is still easily accessible…

Here are the master fuse types and ratings used:
1)PDM - 125 AMP MIDI fuse, 4 gauge wire
2)EPAS - 40 AMP MIDI fuse, 10 gauge wire
3)Sound System Amplifier - 60 AMP MIDI fuse, 4 gauge wire
4)Radiator Fan #1 - 30 AMP ATO fuse, 10 gauge wire
5)Radiator Fan #2 - 30 AMP ATO fuse, 10 gauge wire
6)Compustar PKE - 25 AMP ATO fuse, 12 gauge wire
7)Misc - 15 AMP ATO fuse, 12 gauge wire

Pic of the Battery and some of the cables attached. You see how the MRBF Block attaches to the battery, chassis and engine block ground wires(2 gauge wire), and Master Fuse Power Cable…

Ground cable to the engine block…

Next up is to locate the rest of the electrical components.

 

[Neil]

Finally at the point of installing the electrical components. This thread shows the approach taken to install the battery cables, fuse blocks, and grounding cables.

Here is a video on the process…
Superlite SL-C Build 111 - Master Fuse and Power Cable Install

The battery is installed on the driver side rear of the chassis. The idea was to keep it as close to the starter as possible to insure maximum current and avoid hard starting of a hot engine. Pic of the battery install…
View attachment 137762

I wanted to have independent fuses for the starter, alternator and the master fuse block in the passenger compartment. The master fuse block will supply power to the PDM and other non-switched components. Here is a diagram of the fuse layout..l
View attachment 137763

Space is always at a premium. Found this clever Blue Sea Systems bus bar fuse block for Marine Rated Battery Fuses(MRBF). It’s compact and has a transparent cover to visually inspect the fuses.

For power distribution to various outputs I am using the AIM Solid State Power Distribution Module. It can distribute a maximum of 120 AMPs across 32 outputs. There are a handful of components which require high current and wanted them not to go through the PDM. For this I needed a master fuse block.

I found a nice and compact master fuse block from Littelfuse PN #880073. It’s has 3 MIDI Fuses and 4 Blade fuses and is rated for 350 Amps.

Pic of the fuse blocks and labels for each fuse…
View attachment 137764

Now time to assemble the power and ground cables. Here is a list of the supplies used:
AMZCNC Hydraulic Crimping Tool and Cable Cutter - Amazon
Mega Lugs - CE Auto Electric Supply
Flexible Battery Cable - CE Auto Electric Supply
Extra Thick Heat Shrink Hose - CE Auto Electric Supply
Rubber Boot Ends - CE Auto Electric Supply
3/8” battery cable bulkhead - CE Auto Electric Supply

Fabricated a bracket and mounted the Blue Sea fuse block above the battery. It’s easily accessible in this location…
View attachment 137765

Here are the fuse ratings and wire gauges used:
1)Starter - 300 AMP, 2 gauge wire
2)Alternator - 200 AMP, 2 gauge wire
3)Master Fuse Block - 250 AMP, 1/0 gauge wire

To power the master fuse block, ran a positive cable from the Blue Sea MRBF block to a bulkhead located on the driver side interior tub close out panel…
View attachment 137766

Pic from inside of the chassis. Cable connects the bulkhead to the master fuse block…
View attachment 137767

The fuse block gets mounted to the upper driver side chassis. Selected this spot to keep the cables hidden from view and it is still easily accessible…
View attachment 137771

Here are the master fuse types and ratings used:
1)PDM - 125 AMP MIDI fuse, 4 gauge wire
2)EPAS - 40 AMP MIDI fuse, 10 gauge wire
3)Sound System Amplifier - 60 AMP MIDI fuse, 4 gauge wire
4)Radiator Fan #1 - 30 AMP ATO fuse, 10 gauge wire
5)Radiator Fan #2 - 30 AMP ATO fuse, 10 gauge wire
6)Compustar PKE - 25 AMP ATO fuse, 12 gauge wire
7)Misc - 15 AMP ATO fuse, 12 gauge wire

Pic of the Battery and some of the cables attached. You see how the MRBF Block attaches to the battery, chassis and engine block ground wires(2 gauge wire), and Master Fuse Power Cable…
View attachment 137769

Ground cable to the engine block…
View attachment 137770

Next up is to locate the rest of the electrical components.

With the Blue Sea fuse block directly above the battery, how do you remove the battery?

 

[Joel K]

With the Blue Sea fuse block directly above the battery, how do you remove the battery?

I would remove the battery case from its mounting bracket. The fuse block would stay in place. I reversed the top two screws to keep the fuse block bracket in place and have something to hang the battery case on when reinstalling…

 

[Hector]

Excellent work Joel .

 

[Joel K]

Excellent work Joel .

Thanks Hector!

 

[Joel K]

For the sake of completeness this post covers the routing and install the last of the main power cables. Laying all this out took a lot more time than expected. It’s always difficult to make things look neat, but very happy with the way this came out.

Used 2 gauge wire to supply power to the starter. Not sure if it is necessary but also used a boot to cover the stud…

Routed the cable to avoid too much exhaust heat and clear the axle…

Ran along the frame back to the fuse block and should clear the rear wheel well liner..,

On to the alternator. Also used a 2 gauge wire. Pic of the alternator connection…

Routed the cable along the bottom of the rear fuel tank close out panel and over to the fuse block…

Travels back up the frame and connects to the fuse block…

Pic of the Marine Rated Battery Fuse(MRBF) block with all cables connected. The sides of the clear plastic cover snap off. Nice, neat, and compact.

Last item is to connect the PDM to the master fuse block. It uses a Surlok connector and a 4 gauge wire…

Ok, now I can actually power up the PDM and start testing some of the circuits.

 

[Joel K]

In the model train hobby, kitbashing is the practice of making a new scale model by taking pieces out of multiple kits.

In this post I am kitbashing the Vintage Air heater control valve and will use it to control the defroster. Pic of the supplied HCV…

I wanted to control the defroster vent with one of the AIM PDM key pad buttons…

To add to the challenge I needed to figure out how to control the HCV motor with a push button. To do this I purchased an Autoloc Motor reversing circuit.

The Autoloc circuit is a nice product and has timers and current safeguards built in. Because there are limit switches in the motor, the timers and current safeguards are unnecessary and the logic could have been handled by the PDM with a simple $15 circuit off eBay. Live and learn…

Copied a section of the A/C-Heat plenum to form a bracket which will be used to mount the defroster vent. Applied clear packing tape to the plenum, waxed it, then applied fiberglass and resin. Once dry, it popped right off…

Scavenged the ball valve axle from the HCV and will modify it to be the defroster vent valve. The ball valve is keyed so it is ideal to control the defroster vent flap…

Fabricated a valve flap which attached to the ball valve axle…

Cut an opening in the A/C-Heat plenum. Will need to square up the plenum to improve the amount of air restricted by the valve…

Pic of valve in open position…

Mounted the Autoloc circuit on the chassis and figured out a good location for the motor. De-pinned the unnecessary wires to just a positive and negative wire. The Autoloc will reverse the circuit and run the motor for about 3 seconds to open and reverse to close…

Installed the motor with the defroster vent flap and wired it up. Will add some thin foam on the underside of the defroster vent bracket to seal it up. Works pretty good…

Kitbashing is fun!

 

[Joel K]

One item on the to do list is to see if the AIM PDM can actually control the Vintage Air Blower Motor. I wanted to ditch all the wiring and the fan speed control knob and just use one of the CAN Keypad buttons.

The fan speed can be set to Auto, Off, Low, Medium, and High and the status is displayed on one of the dash screens…

I programmed the auto temp control logic into the PDM as follows:

1)When the set temp differs from the actual temp by more than 10 degrees the fan is on high
2)More than 3 degrees and less than 10 the fan is on medium
3)Less than 3 degrees the fan is on low
4)Fan off/on +- 1 degrees from target temp to prevent hysteresis.

I’ll adjust the programming as needed, this is just an initial setup.

Pic of the wiring bundle to avoid using…

To the best of my knowledge the Vintage air blower motor fan speed is controlled by different resistor sizes on the different positive wires going to the motor. The knob when rotated applies power to one of three power wires. Orange is high, red medium, and yellow is low. Pic of the blower motor harness…

I could have mimicked that with the PDM and used three mutually exclusive outputs, but that seemed like a waste of two outputs. So decided to run a single wire to the high output positive wire and use PWM to control the fan speed.

This is all now controlled with a keypad button. I like having all the back lit etched buttons. The button glows blue in auto mode, yellow for low, orange for mid, and green when set to high. A nice touch…

Here is a demo of how it works…

Disclaimer, I emailed the Vintage Air Team and they simply said you cannot control the blower motor with PWM. I couldn’t get a detailed reason, but they did confirm I could power any of the three blower wires independently to select a speed.

So figured I’d use the high speed wire and provide a PWM signal and see how the motor behaved. For the video demo I’m running the fan at 75%, 85%, and 100% duty cycle and the motor sounds fine even at the lower duty cycle of 75%.

What I noticed is there is a bit of a motor buzz when running below 50% duty cycle, so adjusted the low speed to 55% and sounded ok. The PDM uses 100HZ for its PWM on all outlets except for 4 of them which can run at up to 1000 HZ. I’m thinking using a higher frequency for the duty cycle would eliminate any motor buzz. Unfortunately those 1000HZ outputs are already allocated to two reversing circuits built into the PDM for controlling the parking brake and front lift.

It’s all probably moot once the LT4 fires up but I’ll know about that pretty soon! Anyway, happy I could ditch all that extra wiring and program in auto temp control on the vintage air system.

 

[Hector]

WOW Joel pretty cool stuff you have done , impressive , keep up the good work , I am glad I am done with all that so I am not tempted by your amazing mods.

 

[Joel K]

This post covers connecting the intercooler lines. Like most aspects of this build my brain wants everything to look organized, but there are lots of components, hoses, and wire harnesses competing for space. Finally settled on a layout that I feel is esthetically pleasing, functional and serviceable.

The intercoolers I purchased are actually a pair of auxiliary radiators for a 2018 Camaro ZL1. When comparing the surface area of a single Z06 intercooler(both have the LT4 engine) it’s almost the same. So using that logic this is the approach to keep the IAT temps down. The twin intercoolers are plumbed in series and fed by a single pump underneath a 1.5 litre reservoir.

Here is a list of plumbing parts purchased for the job..

1. LSA/ZL1/LT4 QUICK CONNECT INTERCOOLER STRAIGHT FITTING WITH FILL PORT, SKU: 58QCSTR - LSXConcepts.com
2. STRAIGHT 5/8 BARB MALE TO 5/8 MALE GM QUICK CONNECT LSA/ZL1/LT4, SKU: 58B58MQC - LSXConcepts.
3. GM 5/8” Quick Connect Elbows, PN#23171715 - Scavenged these parts from Z06 Corvette Intercooler hose assemblies purchased on eBay.com
4. 5/8” Continental HD Radiator Hose, PN#65004 - RockAuto.com

Pic of the Fill port, LSX Concepts makes a really nice product. To fill the intercoolers, remove the plug and use a thin funnel and fill. I made an extra pigtail on the intercooler pump so I can run it with the car off and fill up the system. Since the fill port is at the highest point in the system air will escape the port while the pump circulates the coolant.

I planned to use regular 5/8” heater hose and GM Quick Connect Fittings with constant tension clamps. I sort of like the OEM look.

After purchasing the GM Quick connect fittings I discovered that LSX Concepts also makes some nice quick connect to AN fittings and could have finished this task with AN elbows and hose. It would also look nice and neat, but would probably add $300-$400 so decided to stick with the original plan.

To make the heater hose look more organized I found a couple ways of forming hose bends on YouTube. Some used steam, a heat gun, and boiling water. I chose the later approach and put some nice 90 degree bends on the hoses.

Here is a short video on the process…

The general approach is to insert a 3/8” copper tube bender on the inside of the tube. Bend it tight and hold in place with a zip tie…

Boils for 6 minutes…

Comes out pretty good…

Made a double bend for form an S shaped hose to feed the intercooler tank…

Pic of the intercooler lines in the driver side…

The pump feeds the driver side intercooler…

The two intercoolers are connected with a hose which runs along the front engine mount. The return hose runs along the frame rail behind the fuel tank. Pic of the intercooler lines on the passenger side…

Getting closer to first start!

 

[Joel K]

This post covers fabricating the speed sensor brackets. Back on post #449 I installed the tone rings on the CV joints in order to pick up wheel speed.

If you have a 2019 kit or later this is probably not necessary because the updated uprights and hubs include tone rings with speed sensors.

Anyway, my build requires two speed sensors. One for the VSS which feeds the ECU and another which feeds the variable electronic power steering(EPAS). The DCE power steering column can adjust the amount of boost based on vehicle speed. I like the idea of having more steering boost when parking, but less boost traveling at speed.

These are the sensors used…
1)ECU VSS sensor - AC Delco 2133241
2)EPAS square wave speed sensor - Honeywell SNDH-T4L-G01

First task was to find a way to attach the speed sensor brackets to the transaxle. Decided to piggyback off the rear two holes used to mount the axle heat shields. So mocked up a wood bracket to see how it would look…

Now to get a sense for how the sensors mount, used some scrap 1/8” aluminum angle and clamped it in place…

Fabricated the brackets out of 3/16” aluminum. Used a couple business cards to set the gap between each sensor and tone ring. Gap is about .7mm. These sensors are triggered by a metallic object within 2mm distance so this should work well…

Mounted both sensors and trimmed up the brackets…

With the axle cover on, pic of the passenger side ECU speed sensor…

Better pic of the mounted sensor…

Driver side EPAS sensor…

Better pic of the mounted sensor…

Check this off the list!

 

[Joel K]

Continuing to work on the first start punch list. This post covers connecting a transaxle cooler and thermostat to the Graziano.

I debated whether to install a trans cooler since I really won’t be tracking my SLC. I learned that a stock Audi R8 includes a cooler and thermostat so figured to play it safe and duplicate the OEM setup. Plus the LT4 has the reputation of running hot so adding a cooler is relatively inexpensive insurance to protect a very expensive transaxle.

Here is a list of of parts used for the install:
CSF Racing Radiator 8119, Fluid Capacity: 0.47L - Summit Racing
2 x Torques AN-8 (AN8) Banjo Swivel Adapter To M22x1.5 Fit SETRAB Oil Coolers Black - eBay
1High-Flow Inline Oil Cooler Thermostat, 165°F $199.00 PN# FSM-165 - Improved Racing
4 x RaceFlux -10AN O-Ring Boss to -8AN Male Flare Adapter Fitting PN# OM-10-08 - Improved Racing
5 x 811 Stainless Steel Braided PTFE Racing Hose, 8AN - Pegasus Racing
4 x Aluminum 8AN Straight Hose End for 811 / 825 / 910 Hose - Pegasus Racing
2 x Aluminum 8AN Hose End for 811 / 825 / 910 Hose, 90 Degree - Pegasus Racing
2 x Aluminum 8AN Hose End for 811 / 825 / 910 Hose, 150 Degree - Pegasus Racing
2 x Vibrant Performance 8AN to M16 Adapter Fittings 16626 - Amazon
Vibrant Performance 16488 8AN with 1/8 NPT port Adapter Fitting - Amazon

Here is a short video of the setup..,
Superlite SLC Build Video 114 - Installing Improved Racing Thermostat and CSFRacing Trans Cooler

The concept was to place the cooler vertically between the exhaust tips and wing stanchions. I figure that would be functional and also look good. The intake in the roof scoop at speed should provide enough airflow to the cooler. In general, trans coolers do not require a fan as long as there is some amount of air flow. Worst case I could add a 4” motor cycle pusher fan or a tail air scoop/NACA duct to increase airflow…

I found this cooler from CSF Racing which fits the space perfectly. It’s very well made and I like that the ports are located on a single side…

Both Ken and Stephan used the improved racing thermostat so went with that, it is nicely made…

First step was installing the thermostat. Decided to mount it on the diffuser. This oriented the inlets and outlets for a neat install. Also added a temp sensor to monitor transaxle fluid temps…

Connected the hoses to/from the transaxle. Installed the M12 to 8AN fittings into the transaxle and used PTFE lines which will last the life of the car…

Fabricated cooler mounting brackets with rubber grommets to absorb vibration..

Mounted the cooler and attached it to the diffuser. Used 150 degree fittings on the thermostat and these neat 22mm to 8AN banjo fittings on the cooler. Those fittings also work on Setrab coolers and are half the cost. Nice and tidy…

Diffuser now connected back onto the car with the cooler and thermostat installed. Nice and compact layout…

Now with the body on and the cooler with the exhaust installed. Love the look…

 

[Joel K]

Another small item to install was the evaporator drain. Vintage air provides some 1/2” hose and a tee to design a drain tube. I added two 90 degree elbows to the layout.

Considered routing the drain tube either in front of or behind the optional side impact bar base. Finally decided to mount it in front keeping it a little more inboard and less visible.

The blue dot marks the spot where the grommet would go…

Drain tube runs straight down into the chassis floor…

Pic of the tube exiting the chassis floor…

Here you can see the tube routing…

Mocked up a cardboard shield which would prevent the tube from being kicked out of place. Can also be covered in carpet so it blends in…

Used 1/16” 1.125 aluminum z- bar…

Doesn’t really impede into the footbox…

When covered in carpet it should blend in well…

 

[Joel K]

Continuing to work on the first start punch list. This post covers connecting the oil lines from the dry sump to the engine.

The goal was to find as direct a path to limit head pressure created by too many elbows and to keep the oil lines from being too close to the exhaust downpipes. When I fabricated the downpipes I could have made them a little shallower, but then would not have had enough room to fit the catalytic converter vertically before the mufflers so made them as shallow as I could and hoped there would be enough room for the oil lines.

Here are the products used…

Qty 1, Chevrolet Performance parts oil adaptor kit part number GM25534412 - You can purchase the same kit off eBay for less than half the cost.
Qty - 1, Vibrant Fitting 16995; AN to ORB Extension Black -12AN to -12 ORB Male, 2.500"
Qty 4, 811 Stainless Steel Braided PTFE Racing Hose, 12AN, per foot PN #3480-12-FOOT - Pegasusautoracing.com
Qty 3, Aluminum 12AN Hose End for 811 / 825 / 910 Hose, 45 Degree PN #3481-12-045 - Pegasusautoracing.com
Qty 1, Aluminum 12AN Hose End for 811 / 825 / 910 Hose, 90 Degree PN #3481-12-090 - Pegasusautoracing.com
Qty 1, Fiberglass High-Temperature Sleeving Acrylic Coating, 1" ID, 5 Feet Long, McMaster Carr PN #8760T26
Qty 2, Moisture-Seal Heat-Shrink Tubing 2:1 Shrink Ratio, 2" ID Before Shrinking, 1/2 Feet Long, McMaster Carr PN #74965K59

Decided to use stainless PTFE hose which is rated for a max temperature of 500 degrees Fahrenheit and should last the life of the car.

GM sells a conversion plate which converts the OEM oil tank lines to 12 AN. This one I bought on eBay for $65 and has a combination of Vibrant AN fittings and GM plate and seals…

Here is a pic of the plate with a pair of 45 degree fittings attached. Turned out the fittings were very close together and pointed the return hose up and at too great an angle…

So used an extension fitting on the return hose to gain some clearance. Pic of the hose with the extension in place…

Got about an Inch of clearance by using two 45 degrees hose ends. Will add heat shielding on the down pipe and also hose shielding on the PTFE lines. Fingers crossed, this should work out well…

Now with both lines in place…

Used a 90 degree fitting at the top of the sump for the feed hose. A nice direct path…

A strainer gets installed in the feed line at the top of the sump to prevent debris to travel into the tank…

Added acrylic coated fiberglass heat sleeves to the lines for some added heat protection from the exhaust down pipe…

Installed the trans cables heat shielding. Nice to see how it all layed out…

Hoses as they run under the exhaust down pipe. Always a challenge to fit everything in to a small area and keep things organized…

Still have to connect the PCV lines and breather/catch can but this covers installing the feed and return lines.