Joe’s AP MK1 Gt40 build

[Brian]

Put the bottom tank to the water pump (where the bypass goes) and the top to the thermostat housing bypass. This puts the tank in the bypass circuit which is good. The hose from the Tstat housing will feed bubbles to the tank.

When filling, once the Tstat opens, you'll get a lot of air until the long tubes and the radiator purge all the air, and it has to go through the water pump, so be ready to add fast.

For initial coolant filling, a vent on the top of the radiator will let a lot of the air out, but it'll take some full open Tstat, high RPM flow to blow all of the air out of the radiator and coolant pipes and unless the tank is 1 gallon or so, it'll take a few iterations of rev and add.

Instead of the vent you could have a bleed line from there to the tank, but I wouldn't want the extra plumbing.

 

[Joe]

Ah that makes sense now.
Thank you

 

[Joe]

 

[joe]

So, if you were placing your order today, is there anything you would do differently?

 

[Joe]

So, if you were placing your order today, is there anything you would do differently?

I would have a front floor pan made where rad is,so I’m doing that and I bought the wilwood brake kit front and rear so not using the c5 Calipers.other than that no lol. oh I also didn’t realize car don’t come with sway bars so either have Chris get one for rear so he can cut and weld so it ships with car. the front is a direct c5 bolt on.I just bought rear and mailed to him to adjust and mail back To me.

 

[Brian]

So, I noticed the return side of your radiator does not pull off the top. There's a good chance of you getting a big bubble of air in there and the top half of the radiator going unused. You need to either add a bleed from the top of the return or something to ensure the radiator is full of water, and not 1/2 air.

I'm also not real happy with the way those 2 vertical pieces are bent and bolt to the front. This puts a lot of stress on the bend and allows a lot of flex that will work harden adn crack the alum.

They're a good start, but I think we need some flat tabs connecting the verticals to the box.

Tomorrow, I'll try to sketch something.

 

[Fred W Ballinger]

Going back a page, I notice your shift lever assembly. Could you post some more picture / details of the mechanism?

 

[Joe]

So, I noticed the return side of your radiator does not pull off the top. There's a good chance of you getting a big bubble of air in there and the top half of the radiator going unused. You need to either add a bleed from the top of the return or something to ensure the radiator is full of water, and not 1/2 air.

I'm also not real happy with the way those 2 vertical pieces are bent and bolt to the front. This puts a lot of stress on the bend and allows a lot of flex that will work harden adn crack the alum.

They're a good start, but I think we need some flat tabs connecting the verticals to the box.

Tomorrow, I'll try to sketch something.

Yes i agree, with adding a floor pan and steel gussets on verticles should put strength in it.sketch's are a great thing lolto physically see design.i was thinking on putting a bleeder on the return line in front to help purge system, didnt even think of the top part of rad. Great call

 

[Joe]

Going back a page, I notice your shift lever assembly. Could you post some more picture / details of the mechanism?

Yes i will take some later when get home. Its a really nice & simple design

 

[Kent]

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Very nice build! what tool did you use to do the flaring on the ends of your coolant pipes?

 

[Joe]

Very nice build! what tool did you use to do the flaring on the ends of your coolant pipes?

Thank you. The 2 main 1 1/2 cooling lines that run in the chassis was supplied by Chris at AP.

 

[joe]

I would have a front floor pan made where rad is,so I’m doing that and I bought the wilwood brake kit front and rear so not using the c5 Calipers.other than that no lol. oh I also didn’t realize car don’t come with sway bars so either have Chris get one for rear so he can cut and weld so it ships with car. the front is a direct c5 bolt on.I just bought rear and mailed to him to adjust and mail back To me.

I already told Chris that I would be using aftermarket brakes. I'm thinking about going with a Tilton master cylinder and pedal set up. I can weld, so the rear bar can be taken care of by me later. I just don't want to have something included with my roller that I will just end up replacing later.

 

[Joe]

I already told Chris that I would be using aftermarket brakes. I'm thinking about going with a Tilton master cylinder and pedal set up. I can weld, so the rear bar can be taken care of by me later. I just don't want to have something included with my roller that I will just end up replacing later.

Idk where you from but here in NY as part of inspection process the bulkhead window needs to be dot/sae stamped saftey glass, i had chris get that for me instead of the supplied plexi.id look into that if you dont already now.

 

[joe]

Are you referring to the window between the cockpit and the engine compartment? I'm in Iowa...I'll have to look into it, but I think our rules are a little less stringent here.

 

[Brian]

Getting a piece of flat 1/4" glass cut and tempered is really pretty trivial.

Any glass shop can do that.

I was sort of planning to get 2 pieces and have an air gap between for some noise and heat insulation.

 

[Joe]

Are you referring to the window between the cockpit and the engine compartment? I'm in Iowa...I'll have to look into it, but I think our rules are a little less stringent here.

Yes.

 

[Joe]

Getting a piece of flat 1/4" glass cut and tempered is really pretty trivial.

Any glass shop can do that.

I was sort of planning to get 2 pieces and have an air gap between for some noise and heat insulation.

I figured he had all the contacts already so i got as much from him as possible to avoid me hunting around for stuff lol

 

[Joe]

NY is a shit show at the moment lol the less local suppliers I have to deal with the better

 

[Brian]

You might need yours before I get around to it, but I'll keep you in mind and might offer up a group buy. I know Rick and I will be getting 1/4 tempered for our cars. The plastic one I got with the kit will go straight in the trash... Well, I'll keep it for a pattern, then maybe cut other things out of it.

 

[Joe]

You might need yours before I get around to it, but I'll keep you in mind and might offer up a group buy. I know Rick and I will be getting 1/4 tempered for our cars. The plastic one I got with the kit will go straight in the trash... Well, I'll keep it for a pattern, then maybe cut other things out of it.

Chris got me the glass already, in the beginning of order i told him i wanted instead of plexi i already knew what ny looks for with vin inspection as i just went through it with my cobra build. But yes lmk cause i now a member here who will buy one