John's RCR build
- Thread starter John Lowe
- Start date
'Ello all
Picture of a ZF-Q a guy who lives local to me has installed in a customers car. Looks a beautiful piece of kit. Since this is my route I also spoke to a couple of early adopters including one who had previosly used a ZF - all very positive with the sweetness of the change being a major plus.
Installed gear selector and routed cables over the weekend. Did'nt like the idea of leaving the cables naked or riveting a cover to the mono so came up with this. Polished stainless steel tubes (1.5" top cable 1.25" bottom cable) are an interference fit if you wrap self adhesive damlifier around the rearward projecting bosses on the selector box. At the other end carefully measured and cut two interference fit eliptical holes to run the ss tubes through the rear firewall. Whole assembly is rock solid and does the job. Not exactly a period look but it looks really neat IMHO.
Sandy, the CNC reservoirs arrived today and I have figured a way of mounting the level sensors (required for SVA in the UK) into the CNC ally caps. They really do look so much better than the placky ones, thanks.
Chris Melia came round for a "final fit" session on the LS7 to ZF-Q bellhousing. Only issue now outstanding is for me to change the pilot bearing to one with a 17mm bore. The OD of the LS7 pilot is 43.31mm (1.705") to give a tight interference fit and appears to be a roller bearing. This looks like a special GM size as early searches have not yielded an off the shelf equivalent with a 17mm bore.
My options look like (1) sleeving down the crankshaft hole size and fitting a standard bearing or (2, Fran came up with this one) making a plain bearing out of oil light brass. I would be keen to know if anyone out their has ideas/opinions on the best route.
Regards to all
John
Picture of a ZF-Q a guy who lives local to me has installed in a customers car. Looks a beautiful piece of kit. Since this is my route I also spoke to a couple of early adopters including one who had previosly used a ZF - all very positive with the sweetness of the change being a major plus.
Installed gear selector and routed cables over the weekend. Did'nt like the idea of leaving the cables naked or riveting a cover to the mono so came up with this. Polished stainless steel tubes (1.5" top cable 1.25" bottom cable) are an interference fit if you wrap self adhesive damlifier around the rearward projecting bosses on the selector box. At the other end carefully measured and cut two interference fit eliptical holes to run the ss tubes through the rear firewall. Whole assembly is rock solid and does the job. Not exactly a period look but it looks really neat IMHO.
Sandy, the CNC reservoirs arrived today and I have figured a way of mounting the level sensors (required for SVA in the UK) into the CNC ally caps. They really do look so much better than the placky ones, thanks.
Chris Melia came round for a "final fit" session on the LS7 to ZF-Q bellhousing. Only issue now outstanding is for me to change the pilot bearing to one with a 17mm bore. The OD of the LS7 pilot is 43.31mm (1.705") to give a tight interference fit and appears to be a roller bearing. This looks like a special GM size as early searches have not yielded an off the shelf equivalent with a 17mm bore.
My options look like (1) sleeving down the crankshaft hole size and fitting a standard bearing or (2, Fran came up with this one) making a plain bearing out of oil light brass. I would be keen to know if anyone out their has ideas/opinions on the best route.
Regards to all
John
Attachments
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John,
can you clarify how you mounted your shifter. Like you, i've not got the mountng plate welded to the top the sill.
Simon .
can you clarify how you mounted your shifter. Like you, i've not got the mountng plate welded to the top the sill.
Simon .
Simon
Fran supplied an Ally L section bracket which bolts to the tub side, see pic below. Are you still waiting for your bits from Fran?
Guys, thanks for your comments, main reason for opening a build site here was that it will ensure that I continue to try and match the quality of some of the other builds (hopefully workin' so far:stunned
.
Have to say the RCR is good to work on, the accuracy of the chassis alignment is truly outstanding, you really feel that your extra efforts are all the more worthwhile
Best
John
Fran supplied an Ally L section bracket which bolts to the tub side, see pic below. Are you still waiting for your bits from Fran?
Guys, thanks for your comments, main reason for opening a build site here was that it will ensure that I continue to try and match the quality of some of the other builds (hopefully workin' so far:stunned
.Have to say the RCR is good to work on, the accuracy of the chassis alignment is truly outstanding, you really feel that your extra efforts are all the more worthwhile
Best
John
Attachments
Fran Hall RCR
GT40s Sponsor
Simon does not have bag tanks like you John, so he cannot bolt the bracket to the same location as you.
We cannot weld a bracket that is a one size fits all to the side of the chassis, we recommend mounting the shift box to the floor/centre tunnel and making the location fit your own personal reach.
We cannot weld a bracket that is a one size fits all to the side of the chassis, we recommend mounting the shift box to the floor/centre tunnel and making the location fit your own personal reach.
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Fran Hall RCR
GT40s Sponsor
Yes ....absolutely
'Ello all
Purchased a couple of SVA compliant level sensors and opened up clearance holes in two of the screw down caps atop the beautiful CNC reservoirs to enable them to fit. I then broke the level sensors apart, removing the supplied cap (not required) and float tube from the main assembly Next fitted rubber washers(fabricated from the CNC supplied rubber expansion bellows) and a 1mm Nylon spacing washers (thickness is critical) above the float tube. When the float tube is snapped back in place it causes a good leak proof interference fit between CNC cap. top rubber sealing washer (supplied with the level sensor), fabricated rubber washer and nylon washer. The whole assembley can be rotated to position and then locked down by the cap further ensuring leak free job.
Certainly looks a whole lot better than the placky ones and as Sandy said goes rather better with the RCR:cool2:
Fran thanks for the info
Onwards and upwards
John
Purchased a couple of SVA compliant level sensors and opened up clearance holes in two of the screw down caps atop the beautiful CNC reservoirs to enable them to fit. I then broke the level sensors apart, removing the supplied cap (not required) and float tube from the main assembly Next fitted rubber washers(fabricated from the CNC supplied rubber expansion bellows) and a 1mm Nylon spacing washers (thickness is critical) above the float tube. When the float tube is snapped back in place it causes a good leak proof interference fit between CNC cap. top rubber sealing washer (supplied with the level sensor), fabricated rubber washer and nylon washer. The whole assembley can be rotated to position and then locked down by the cap further ensuring leak free job.
Certainly looks a whole lot better than the placky ones and as Sandy said goes rather better with the RCR:cool2:
Fran thanks for the info
Onwards and upwards
John
Attachments
Oh yeah, ask my wife about my style it would like result in laughter. I do like stainless steel and nice bolts, pan head plated belong no where on a race car, especially of one coming out as nice as yours.
John -
They are 10-24 Threaded Stainless Button Heads. Get a set of non-metric allen wrenches if you don't already have a set.
I think you mounted them in about the same spot where I put them. I did used 1/8 Pipe to -4AN fittings off the bottom of the reservoirs. Figured it would look better then the hose. I then did a bulkhead -4 to the masters with yet more fittings. I don't know if you want to go that crazy, but hey, you in for the button heads I might as well taunt you with more stuff you can do.
HTH
Sandy
They are 10-24 Threaded Stainless Button Heads. Get a set of non-metric allen wrenches if you don't already have a set.
I think you mounted them in about the same spot where I put them. I did used 1/8 Pipe to -4AN fittings off the bottom of the reservoirs. Figured it would look better then the hose. I then did a bulkhead -4 to the masters with yet more fittings. I don't know if you want to go that crazy, but hey, you in for the button heads I might as well taunt you with more stuff you can do
. HTH
Sandy
Sandy
Thanks for that. I have been looking at using Goodridge -6 600 stainless braided brake hose and Seal-It special grommits but will also look at your solution:idea2:. Certainly won't be using the supplied stuff:smash:.
Sandy as you perhaps know I trained as an engineer but a (very) long time ago so your knowledge is most helpfull. So here I go again - what size fitting do I look for to screw into the bottom of the reservoirs?
I think I should rename this thread John and Sandy's build:thumbsup:
Best
John
Thanks for that. I have been looking at using Goodridge -6 600 stainless braided brake hose and Seal-It special grommits but will also look at your solution:idea2:. Certainly won't be using the supplied stuff:smash:.
Sandy as you perhaps know I trained as an engineer but a (very) long time ago so your knowledge is most helpfull. So here I go again - what size fitting do I look for to screw into the bottom of the reservoirs?
I think I should rename this thread John and Sandy's build:thumbsup:
Best
John
We are all here to help
You helped me a lot with the front sway pic's. I have a bit of work to do before I get to that change, but definitely for the better. It is all nice to get help and give help to others which makes some things easier.
BTW, Your work is excellent, and when you come out to the States, come over and work on my car
Keep up the good work, it is coming out awesome!
Sandy
You helped me a lot with the front sway pic's. I have a bit of work to do before I get to that change, but definitely for the better. It is all nice to get help and give help to others which makes some things easier.
BTW, Your work is excellent, and when you come out to the States, come over and work on my car
Keep up the good work, it is coming out awesome!
Sandy