Kurt H (hoffkm) SL-C build thread

Hi Kurt,

Can you identify what fittings and lines connect from the graziano to the hydraulic clutch line. Looks like the clutch line has a female 3-AN fitting. Any help on this would be appreciated.

Trying to figure out if I have all the parts.

Thanks!
Joel,

Sorry, cannot help you on that one. I am using a Porsche G96-01 transaxle. I can say that it required an adapter to use the -3 AN clutch hose supplied with my kit. I do not have access to my BOM right now it I’d put the part number in this reply. It may or may not be the same as what you require. I’ll look it up at lunch and see what I have for pics of my slave cylinder for comparison.
 

Joel K

Supporter
Joel,

Sorry, cannot help you on that one. I am using a Porsche G96-01 transaxle. I can say that it required an adapter to use the -3 AN clutch hose supplied with my kit. I do not have access to my BOM right now it I’d put the part number in this reply. It may or may not be the same as what you require. I’ll look it up at lunch and see what I have for pics of my slave cylinder for comparison.
Thanks Kurt, just assumed you had the Graziano. Appreciate the quick reply.
 
Joel,

For my G96-01 transaxle slave cylinder I used an Earls part number 592053 12mm to 3AN adapter fitting.
transaxle clutch fitting.JPG


Couldn't find any photos but this piece threads directly into the G96-01 slave cylinder and then the supplied hose connects to it. Easy Peasy for my build at least.
 
Well the bathroom remodel is taking longer than expected. In my defense, more content to the plan has been added by the DW. That, I should have anticipated. I should be done in another two to three weeks. It is turning out very nice.

I also lost a weekend to another unexpected project. A couple weeks back my mother asked Facebook if anyone knew a good painter, she wanted to repaint the entire first story of their house. My wonderful niece (god bless her soul) responded to her "your sons" (I have two brothers) We couldn't say no at that point. My one brother, his wife, and I spent last weekend knocking out most of the job and my other brother finished it this weekend. My wife would have helped but she had her second covid shot last weekend and it affected her quite negatively. She is fine now. I had my first this past week, no issues, hoping the second treats me the same as my first.

Since the remodel is dragging on I have decided to spend a little time in the shop so I have been finishing the wiring under the dash for the gauges and switches so I can install the dash. I finished the parking brake controller yesterday and it works very well. I am using a pair of Tesla EPB calipers and the Pantera Electronics controller. It is a very nice system. I do have some custom wiring to figure out. I am not using their switch as I have custom laser engraved billet pushbuttons. For the signal lights, the Pantera Electronics unit has two connections that alternate 5 VDC polarity. My push button has a common + input and separate ground connections for the R G & B LEDs. I am going to have to get creative with some relays. I just need to purchase a 5 VDC relay to see if what I am thinking will work or not.

This weekend I also carbon fiber skinned my final version of the engine coil covers, my custom one piece steering column cover, as well as my switch, and gauges backing plates. This time I used West Systems Epoxy and instead of sticking the carbon fiber fabric down with contact adhesive I used the epoxy, let it tack, and stuck down the fabric. This method seems to work better in my opinion, time will tell. Pictures are not the greatest, I'll get better photos when these are finished.

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The steering column cover was very hard to cover and is going to require a lot of sanding as well as a pinstripe or something to cover a seam running along the side that I could not avoid. The other four pieces will require minimal sanding before spraying a couple of coats of clear on them. The West Systems epoxy is worth every penny it costs more than other brands. I am now confident in my decision to carbon fiber cover the front and side splitters. Those flat parts should be easy compared to the steering column and coil covers.
 
While waiting on the wife to finish up the paint trim work in the bathroom so I can replace the flooring I have been sneaking out to my shop to work on the SL-C again.

I have been fitting the dash and did not like the way the anchor lined up with the defrost ducts (it did not line up no matter what I did) so I cut it off, 3D printed some ducts to bond to the bottom of the dash, 3D printed a diverter, and plumbed the defrost with 1 1/2" duct hose.

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The airflow is very good when the vent are closed and I have air coming out from nearly the full length of the defrost duct with the taper I put into the 3D printed pieces.

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After this was complete the dash was installed.

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I changed my mind and mounted the wiper switch on the left side of the dash along with the guage dimmer knob.

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And I applied 4 coats of clear with a fifth and final flow coat to my carbon fiber skinned valve covers, dash panels, and logo emblems.

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I am once again making progress but am behind schedule. Not too awful worried about that but I am taking Monday and Tuesday off of work next week to do some tweaks to the GTO and try and catch up a little on the SL-C.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
I have a question. What is the plan for access to do maintenance on all that stuff up under the dash once the car is put together? At the very least you might put some removable panels on the top of the dash so you can at least get your hands in there. Please don't think I am being critical, but once the windshield is glued in changing a simple relay will be difficult and R & R ing the blower motor or wiper motor looks like it might just be a nightmare. Again just trying to help.
 
Howard,

All good questions. Yes, once the car is fully assembled the only way to replace the relays, parking brake controller, and windshield wiper motor will be to remove the dash (the blower motor is inside the cockpit, I am using the stock vintage air unit). That will be possible but not easy by any means.

There is a tradeoff to every decision we make in putting these cars together. I am banking on the fact that 1) the wiper motor will rarely ever be used (fair weather car only) 2) relays do not fail often in my experience (just jinxed myself on that one I am sure) 3) the turn signal relay is solid state and all my lights are LED so low current draw should prolong the life of the relay 4) The brake controller is all solid state but no knowledge of it's longevity.

The wiper motor bolt that is under the windshield flange is bolted to the body to form a stud that the wiper motor mounts to. The wiper motor can be removed without removing the windshield. Once again, not easy but possible.

I am assembling the dash so it is as easy to remove as it possibly can be. Your suggestion of some removable panels is a good one, I will look into that when I pull the car back apart this coming winter to finish the paint and interior work. I am covering the dash in leather so it may be easy to make some clean looking access panels.

Thank you for all your suggestions and feel free to call me out on anything that you think looks wrong or questionable in what I do. I am no expert here by any means and always welcome the assistance!
 
Neat stuff going on here -
Like those defroster ducts and custom carbon covered bits, yes sir.

I know it's jumping way ahead in the game, but I did the exact same upper shock location modification for exactly the same reasons. In my case it was found that the spring would coil bind long before the shock ran out of compression travel. The mod resulted in even less compression travel if running the car at lower-ish static ride height. The end result was hard bottoming of the spring as a result of less than needed travel..

Dreaming - not that it's possible, but the best mod I can think of as far as serviceability on our cars would be to have the windshield easily removable. I'd like to have that in my own car I can tell you.
 
Mesa,

Thank you for the compliments and your suspension experiences. Not sure I see how lowering the upper shock mount reduced your spring travel before coil bind. I am sure I am overthinking it. When I remounted mine it raised my ride height. I then had to adjust the spring perch position about the same distance that I lowered the mount to get the ride height back to where I wanted it. The pre-compression of the spring did not change, it is dependent on the un-sprung weight of the car. I did notice that I could not lower the mount very much before the lower shock mount would bottom out in the lower control arm (only lowered the holes .594"). I considered machining the lower a arm to increase the clearance but I am very cautious and tentative about modify suspension geometry (I say this as I am talking about how I changed the shock mounting, ironic, I know).

A removable windshield could be done, I doubt it would meet DOT requirements. In addition to preventing objects from getting into the car a windshield is intended to keep the occupants in a car during a crash. The lexan race windshield option is removable in most installations, just not practical on the street. Up here in the north we have all winter to work on our cars so if I ever need to replace anything under my dash I will have all winter to remove the dash and tinker on it with the windshield in place (unless I move south someday, then I could drive year round :) ).
 
Yup, your're right. Changing the upper shock mound didn't alter the spring bottom problem., I condensed a LONG story into to few words. In order to improve the ride quality while increasing suspension travel I actually put a longer shock on it in order to use a longer spring to prevent coil bind. Which meant relocating the upper mount above the upper A arm location. This also allowed room for a bump stop on the shock, the bump stop alone was a substantial improvement in larger bump absorption. Actually in limiting the jarring force that otherwise would be transferred to the chassis when the suspension bottomed out.

But then I am pretty picky in the ride quality department while still maintaining original sport performance.
 

Kyle

Supporter
Kurt looking good! The carbon fiber isn’t so bad after the first few times. Just like you I have things under my dash, but from my experience so far the dash is really easy to take out, the only large items in the way would be the seats.
 
Had a good couple of days off working in my shop. Hate to go back to work tomorrow. I am caught back up on my timeline to have the car on the road by late this summer followed by taking it apart this fall to paint and finish the interior after testing all the systems, coming up with new upgrades, etc. Speaking of upgrades, I really should un-subscribe from Allan's youtube channel. He continues to set the bar higher and higher for us fellow builders (what am I saying, I cannot compare myself to Allan). His latest SL-C with an LT5 is FABULOUS. He continues to come up with minor body adjustments/tweaks that take the SL-C to another level. Wish I was better at fiberglass work, I would take on a few of his mods myself.

Anyone who has wired custom gauges into their dash can appreciate the sense of accomplish these photos give me (this was a lot of wiring):


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Now I am looking for everyone's opinion on my button colors. As you can see my gauges are red and I went with blue button lights (my buttons can be wired for blue, red, or green) because I thought the red would be too "harsh". Now I am thinking the red would look better matching my gauges. What does everyone think? I have by EPB switch setup for red when activated, blue when off so I would need to probably swap that to red off and green activated (kind of backwards). It is easy to change the lights, just depin and re-pin the plugs. I may just go ahead and try it.

Now I need to take the car out for another test drive to the gas station to fill the tank and verify the fuel gauge works as it should.

The wires dangling to the right are for the Infinity bluetooth receiver, I have not wired it in yet. Tunes can come later.
 
It's pretty awesome how quickly this build is coming, congrats on the dash. Truly is amazing how much work is involved behind those panels.

My first choice would be white as a contrast color to the red gauges, but know that's not an option without buying more buttons. I think all red is next best thing, plus coordinates with the gel coat color (and I think you mentioned will be paint color as well). Easy peasy!
 
Ok, I switched the LEDs on my pushbuttons to red, much better in my opinion. Thank you everyone for your input.

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Green light on the BRAKE button means the EPB is engaged, it shows red when it is released. In the photo the LEDs show a little lighter red than what they actually are. They are a very close match to the red on my guages.

Driver's view (camera perched at my eye level, this is what I see) with the wheel on (I cannot believe no one called me out for having my SLC logo upside down on the steering wheel in the previous photo, I caught it and corrected it). I am very pleased with the view I have of the tach and speedometer without having to duck under the steering wheel. My AC controls are blocked but I can access them easily enough by feel. The main PANIC buttons I need to reach easily are just in front of my shift hand, those are the horn and front lift.

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I was going to drive it up to the gas station tonight fill the tank and check my fuel guage but it is raining. Instead I spent most of my evening sitting in the car admiring things. I take it off the stands and drive her another day soon.........
 
Amazing work Kurt. I love the fiberglass dashboard faceplates , the red switches match very well , the logo emblems are also very nice, I need to make some. Also your vent solutions are superb. I am woking on all those things right now. Will be hard to match your craftsmanship but I keep trying, thanks for the inspiration.
 
I keep admiring your steering wheel logo, kind of feel like I need to copy you. Something about the embossed logo gets me, especially when I get in mind and it's just a stinkin' vinyl decal.

I assume 3D printed? What'd you use to fill in the layer lines? Is the red a decal or did you paint by hand? I
 
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